Oil Change

[itlives]

No hate. We are just a bunch of chickens waiting on a june bug. We take turns being the june bug and it's your time to be in the middle.

Next time you might get to jump on it.

I like how you put that. I have noticed a few mean chickens in the yard , lately.

 

[Beemerphile]

I like how you put that. I have noticed a few mean chickens in the yard , lately.

It is up to the nice chickens to gang up on the mean ones and show them whas' what. Some forumers are so genteel they don't want any pecking going on and think that june bugs are a protected species. Others would peck the business end of a 12 gauge shotgun. Somewhere in the middle is a happy place where chickens can be chickens but no-one loses tail-feathers.

 

[bduffey]

I'm taking my NC and going home!

 

[Therapy]

Do not use any oils that have friction reducers or contain Molybdenum. Always look on the back of the bottle for this seal and do not select ones with these phrases such as "Energy Conversion".

View attachment 26326

I don't understand what you are saying here. "such as "Energy Conversion"." I can read that in the attachment. What about all the others in your attachment? Are those "out" or "in"?
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I recommend DuPont Teflon Chain Saver. I found this last year while I was in Illinois at a Walmart on Summer Trip.

Why do you recommend expensive synthetic oil and cheapo WalMart chain lube?

I have over 500k miles on Honda engines between cars and motorcycles and never had any issues beyond scheduled maintenance and normal repairs. I've done everything exactly by the owners manual that came with the vehicles. Regardless of other people's two cents, I figure the people who built the vehicles know what is best.

This is how I have maintained every product I have ever owned. Starting with my first bicycle with no one to fix or help fix a flat. I consider it good advice.
There may be some other experienced ideas that can streamline our efforts and make things easier and "better" but I suggest paying attention to the basics from those that built it.

 

[JoeTx]

A short while back had the honor of caring for a Shell engineer who developed the process for ultra pure oxygen + pure natural gas over a catalyst = Rotella. He recommended the same. After OCR clutch failure, I use GN4.

 

[bamamate]

I don't understand what you are saying here. "such as "Energy Conversion"." I can read that in the attachment. What about all the others in your attachment? Are those "out" or "in"?
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Why do you recommend expensive synthetic oil and cheapo WalMart chain lube?



This is how I have maintained every product I have ever owned. Starting with my first bicycle with no one to fix or help fix a flat. I consider it good advice.
There may be some other experienced ideas that can streamline our efforts and make things easier and "better" but I suggest paying attention to the basics from those that built it.

Brillot meant conserving not conversion. If the label says energy conserving or something like that then don't even bother looking for JASO MA on the back of the bottle. The two labels on the left say "energy conserving" where as the others don't so they are possible if they are the correct weight and have JASO MA on the back. Energy conserving oil has extra additives to make it slippery which doesn't work with a wet clutch like in our bikes where the clutch is bathed in engine oil. I use rotella T6 because it meets the specs for our bike and it is available at walmart which is 5 mins from the house where as the Honda dealer is an hour away. There are many other oils available but walmart or a parts store may not carry other options. T6 is easy to find and many people run it in various bikes.

The Dupont chain lube is very popular and again is usually available at walmart so easy to find. There are many other brands and no brand is the ultimate chain lube. Some people use wd-40 with good results and others say it ruins chains. Some people run oilers that dribble oil onto the chain and others don't like them. Whatever you use make sure it is o-ring/x-ring compatible.

Same thing goes for cleaning the chain. Some don't clean, some clean with wd-40, some with kerosene, some with chain cleaner (o-ring/x-ring compatible).

Many options out there with no real proof that one is better than the other for all situations. If I lived in a wet area I'd look at the automatic oilers. I personally use the Dupont (easy to find and good reviews) when at home and wd-40 when on the road (1 can for multiple uses).

 

[Shad]

Thanks for all the great information guys. I completed the oil change this morning.

 

[Therapy]

Brillot meant conserving not conversion. If the label says energy conserving or something like that then don't even bother looking for JASO MA on the back of the bottle. The two labels on the left say "energy conserving" where as the others don't so they are possible if they are the correct weight and have JASO MA on the back. Energy conserving oil has extra additives to make it slippery which doesn't work with a wet clutch like in our bikes where the clutch is bathed in engine oil. I use rotella T6 because it meets the specs for our bike and it is available at walmart which is 5 mins from the house where as the Honda dealer is an hour away. There are many other oils available but walmart or a parts store may not carry other options. T6 is easy to find and many people run it in various bikes.

The Dupont chain lube is very popular and again is usually available at walmart so easy to find. There are many other brands and no brand is the ultimate chain lube. Some people use wd-40 with good results and others say it ruins chains. Some people run oilers that dribble oil onto the chain and others don't like them. Whatever you use make sure it is o-ring/x-ring compatible.

Same thing goes for cleaning the chain. Some don't clean, some clean with wd-40, some with kerosene, some with chain cleaner (o-ring/x-ring compatible).

Many options out there with no real proof that one is better than the other for all situations. If I lived in a wet area I'd look at the automatic oilers. I personally use the Dupont (easy to find and good reviews) when at home and wd-40 when on the road (1 can for multiple uses).

Seems I have trouble with Brillot "english"

I get there are lots of things to use out there.

I have been told WD-40 damages orings. Has anyone ever tested it?
Does this count? Does WD40 hurt o-rings? A test.... - General Dirt Bike Discussion - ThumperTalk

 

[Beemerphile]

Seems I have trouble with Brillot "english"

I get there are lots of things to use out there.

I have been told WD-40 damages orings. Has anyone ever tested it?
Does this count? Does WD40 hurt o-rings? A test.... - General Dirt Bike Discussion - ThumperTalk

RK, who makes chains, recommends it...

RK Excel America

How Should I Maintain My Sealed Chain?

Doing routine maintenance on any chain is a crucial step to getting the maximum wearlife out of your chain. You should clean and check its adjustment every 400 miles (sooner if the chain gets excessively dirty). Use Formulated o-ring chain cleaner or other similar product to keep dirt from building up around link plates and rollers. You can hose off a non-O-ring chain, but be sure to use a moisture displacement product (like WD40) after the chain comes in contact with water. After your chain has been cleaned you should apply a quality chain lube. Wipe away any excess lube, so that it does not attract dirt.

 

[Therapy]

RK, who makes chains, recommends it...

RK Excel America

How Should I Maintain My Sealed Chain?

Doing routine maintenance on any chain is a crucial step to getting the maximum wearlife out of your chain. You should clean and check its adjustment every 400 miles (sooner if the chain gets excessively dirty). Use Formulated o-ring chain cleaner or other similar product to keep dirt from building up around link plates and rollers.

You can hose off a non-O-ring chain, but be sure to use a moisture displacement product (like WD40) after the chain comes in contact with water. After your chain has been cleaned you should apply a quality chain lube. Wipe away any excess lube, so that it does not attract dirt.

Again, my understanding of the written English can be a problem.
The above says (to me) that a "non-O-ring" chain can be hosed with water but then needs a spray with a "moisture displacement product". Yea, WD-40 meets that.
What I don't read here is anything about putting WD-40 on an O-ring chain.

 

[Beemerphile]

Again, my understanding of the written English can be a problem.
The above says (to me) that a "non-O-ring" chain can be hosed with water but then needs a spray with a "moisture displacement product". Yea, WD-40 meets that.
What I don't read here is anything about putting WD-40 on an O-ring chain.

I see that now. I copied the paragraph under "How Should I Maintain My Sealed Chain". I don't know why they reverted to info about non-sealed chain in the middle of the paragraph when they have a separate paragraph at the linked page for non-sealed chain. I did not read it as closely as you did.

Though my normal regimen is an o-ring safe cleaner followed by chain wax, I have, however, used WD40 on sealed chains for many years without ever suffering for it. I have heard that it dries out rubber o-rings and I have heard that it conditions them. You may have to just put a chain at risk and try it yourself.

 

[TigerDude]

We've gone off-topic, but it seems to me that chain maintenance is governed by sprites & elves. Everything you read has a different take, and every possible method will have someone who got 30,000 miles on a chain using it. I'm leaning towards a Turtoro oiler myself.

 

[Therapy]

We've gone off-topic,

Oops!
...........

 

[670cc]

We're not really off topic. Chain lube interval was part of the original post.

 

[Harald]

I see that now. I copied the paragraph under "How Should I Maintain My Sealed Chain". I don't know why they reverted to info about non-sealed chain in the middle of the paragraph when they have a separate paragraph at the linked page for non-sealed chain. I did not read it as closely as you did.

Though my normal regimen is an o-ring safe cleaner followed by chain wax, I have, however, used WD40 on sealed chains for many years without ever suffering for it. I have heard that it dries out rubber o-rings and I have heard that it conditions them. You may have to just put a chain at risk and try it yourself.

Motorcyclist magazine had an article on chain lubing years ago and I remember a chain manufacturer recommending WD40 for cleaning/lubing their o-ring chains. I can't find the original article, but did find this excerpt: Chain Lube .

I used nothing but WD40 to clean and lube the o-ring chain on my last chain drive bike before the NC700 and that chain was still good with over 30,000 miles on it when I sold the bike. I don't remember the chain brand, but the bike was a Honda CBR1100XX with a lot of chain destroying horsepower. I'm using WD40 on the NC700 now and expect similar results.

 

[Therapy]

Motorcyclist magazine had an article on chain lubing years ago and I remember a chain manufacturer recommending WD40 for cleaning/lubing their o-ring chains. I can't find the original article, but did find this excerpt: Chain Lube .

I used nothing but WD40 to clean and lube the o-ring chain on my last chain drive bike before the NC700 and that chain was still good with over 30,000 miles on it when I sold the bike. I don't remember the chain brand, but the bike was a Honda CBR1100XX with a lot of chain destroying horsepower. I'm using WD40 on the NC700 now and expect similar results.

That sounds pretty much like a "yes".

I love it. Does it dry out a little and not sling off?
Do you "hose" it to "wash" it? And then wipe to clean and then add some to Dry?

 

[Harald]

That sounds pretty much like a "yes".

I love it. Does it dry out a little and not sling off?
Do you "hose" it to "wash" it? And then wipe to clean and then add some to Dry?

The WD40 only leaves a light coating and doesn't sling off like chain lube can/does. Because the chain is permanently lubed and sealed with O-rings, the WD40 just stops the chain from rusting (which is why I always hit it after riding in the rain). Otherwise I lube every few hundred miles. By lubing regularly, I find the chain stays fairly clean but I have hosed it down and scrubbed it with a rag to get it clean.

I mostly just put the bike on the centerstand and spray it along the outer edges of the sprocket right at the chain so that centripetal force carries the liquid between the plates and around the rollers and then also spray the outer edge of the sideplates of the chain. This only takes seconds to hit both sides while the bike is running and spinning the chain ( the DCT version requires hitting the rear brake to stop the spin before you go into neutral after you're done lubing).

 

[dduelin]

I'm pretty sure I ruined a chain on my NC700X using WD40 but now I'm a confirmed user of WD40 on my chain. To explain the contradiction I started using WD40 directly out of the aerosol can and sprayed it directly and liberally in the space between side plates and rollers. It was a cheap $80 O ring chain and within 8000 miles I had numerous kinks and tight spots. I replaced it with a high quality DID chain and started a different routine of spraying the WD40 on a clean rag or paper towel and using that to wipe the chain clean. After wiping clean I use a toothbrush to apply a minute amount of a 50/50 mixture of ATF/90wt gear oil to the lower run of the chain. Spin the wheel a few times to distribute it evenly on the chain. I use just one toothbrush worth of the ATF/gear oil. The chain was maintained like this for the next 13,xxx miles then I traded the NC for the Tiger. I maybe tightened the DID chain twice in that time and the chain looked like new. For 13k I've used the same method on the Tiger. I like to keep my bikes clean on the rear wheel is like a shaft drive bike with no fling off on the wheel, fender, or clothing. On a trip I carry one of those tiny cans of WD40, a vial of oil mix, and a cut down toothbrush in a sandwich bag for a wipe off every 300 to 500 miles. I'll keep doing this. It's clean and easy and looks good.

 

[bamamate]

dduelin, that first chain doesn't count. Many of us changed it out by 10k. Mine never saw WD40, only o-ring safe cleaner and lube, and it was toast before 10k. It was a crappy chain.

 

[dduelin]

dduelin, that first chain doesn't count. Many of us changed it out by 10k. Mine never saw WD40, only o-ring safe cleaner and lube, and it was toast before 10k. It was a crappy chain.

Yes I agree about the crappy OEM chain. I replaced it at 8,000 miles with the one I described in post 38. I was on the third chain at 16,000 miles. That third chain I think would have gone 3 or 4 times as long as the either of the first two. I think I've adjusted the chain twice in 13,000 miles on the Tiger. If kebrider chimes in here I think he had nearly 40,000 miles on his Tiger's original chain using the method I described. I learned it from him.