8,000 Mile Maintenance

[GregC]

so my 2015 DCT is needing its 8,000 mile service (it's actually at 9,000 miles so its overdue). I changed the oil (and both filters) at 600, and at 6,000 because (a) I was about to do a 5 day trip after the winter, and (b) I couldn't bring myself to wait longer to do an oil change (I'm a 3k/3month oil changer on cars).

My question is: my local dealer says the 8K service, without oil change is $300. My review of the service manual appears to indicate the 8K service is a valve adjustment, oil change, and a lot of inspection. So what do you guys think of $300 without oil? I would have expected $300 with oil change.

And so you know, I realize the 8K is something I could probably do myself, but this bike is still under Honda warranty, and I have the extended warranty, so I want the major service intervals on the record.

Muchas gracias.

 

[supertux1]

so my 2015 DCT is needing its 8,000 mile service (it's actually at 9,000 miles so its overdue). I changed the oil (and both filters) at 600, and at 6,000 because (a) I was about to do a 5 day trip after the winter, and (b) I couldn't bring myself to wait longer to do an oil change (I'm a 3k/3month oil changer on cars).

My question is: my local dealer says the 8K service, without oil change is $300. My review of the service manual appears to indicate the 8K service is a valve adjustment, oil change, and a lot of inspection. So what do you guys think of $300 without oil? I would have expected $300 with oil change.

And so you know, I realize the 8K is something I could probably do myself, but this bike is still under Honda warranty, and I have the extended warranty, so I want the major service intervals on the record.

Muchas gracias.

Without the oil change, this is basically what you'd be paying them to do. (Plus 'inspecting' a bunch of other stuff which you can do easily.)

[video=youtube;oWUCFoz01tk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oWUCFoz01tk[/video]

 

[bvogel7475]

I think the 8K valve adjustment has been extended to 15K miles. I know it's been mentioned several times here on the forum. Do some searching and you should be able to find it. If you have a service manual from 2012-2013 it still says the valves need to be done at 8K. I would be surprised if the $300 even included a valve adjustment as it could take over an hour and the mechanic's rate is well over $100 an hour these days. The oil change takes about 10 minutes. I would do that one yourself. I also have an extended warranty on mine but I make sure to document all of the work that I have done myself. The old days of doing your own work voiding your warranty are pretty much gone after multiple laws were passed to protect us DIYers.

 

[GregC]

I'm not having them change the oil and 2 filters because I just did this myself at 6,000. So this one would be valves (assuming they do it now) and inspections. It sounds like if they do the valves it may be worth the $300.


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[happy]

Oil change DIY.
Valve adjustment: pay the mechanic if you trust him...


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[yearroundrider]

If you've got the time, patience and the tools, do the valve adjustment yourself. I have limited mechanic knowledge and followed the step by step instructions that Antarius posted on this sight. It took me exactly 2 hours with double checking all the valves before I buttoned her up. People have said that this is one of the easiest vehicles to work on, maybe except for the air filter so if you have any thoughts , go for it! I would rather spend that $300 on some farkle if you ask me!


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[MiG Angel]

I'll echo what everyone else says. Valve adjustment should be done at 16K miles per the manual after 2014 and they're not too hard to do. It's been taking me less time after every try. You could spend less than $300 just one time ever to buy any necessary tools and spend some quality time with your steed.

Also check out the YouTube video for a good overview before you decide to jump in.

 

[bduffey]

Just want to clarify something................... the 2012's and 13's still follow the 8,000 mile check, correct??

 

[MZ5]

So far as I know, yes, the early ones still follow the 8k valve check interval.

GregC, I confess that as a person who prefers to do maintenance and at least minor repair work himself, I'm out of touch with what it costs to have maintenance done at the dealer. I can give you some context, though, for what it's worth:

My dealer's rate is $88/hr. It cost me 2 hrs labor (book rate, I believe, but perhaps not) for them to rebuild the forks. That was disassembly, replacement of bushings and seals, set oil level, and they shortened the spring preload spacers 1/2" for me. I took them the forks, stripped and with the caps broken loose. Had I taken them the whole bike, it'd have cost me another hour of labor.

 

[oldhack]

The valve check for all model years is now 16k. My dealer said they got a memo that it applies to 2012 and up. The dealer feedback and research data is what led Honda to revise the interval according to the bulletin. After reading about people who have done it at 8k, it seems the change is warranted. Not like it's hard to do though if you want peace of mind, just don't expect to adjust much if anything.

 

[vitesse]

These are old screw and nut adjusters, same as everything British and a few Jap for 50+ years. The only thing that would require dealer involvement is an ecu flash or a fault.

 

[3rdgeargrndrr]

i just did my valves at 8,800 mi and boy were my valves tight from the factory, wayy under spec, and i did not measure them, but could not get feeler gauge of 014" under the intakes/
opening them up to spec really helps the engine breathe. Seat of the pants, definitely more power, but now it sounds like a Harley

 

[670cc]

i just did my valves at 8,800 mi and boy were my valves tight from the factory, wayy under spec, and i did not measure them, but could not get feeler gauge of 014" under the intakes/
opening them up to spec really helps the engine breathe. Seat of the pants, definitely more power, but now it sounds like a Harley

I think you have it backwards. Valves clearances that are tighter than spec will open farther and have more duration. That's fine up to the point that they don't seat closed, then you have poor idle and burnt valves - real problems. Opening up the valve clearance as you did is, of course, the right thing to do for engine longevity, but it actually reduces the air flow because the valves don't open as far and are open for less time.

I don't think your bike would breath easier by loosening the tappet clearance. Rather it would be the opposite.

 

[showkey]

i just did my valves at 8,800 mi and boy were my valves tight from the factory, wayy under spec, and i did not measure them, but could not get feeler gauge of 014" under the intakes/
opening them up to spec really helps the engine breathe. Seat of the pants, definitely more power, but now it sounds like a Harley

Did you mix up metric and Inches specs ????? Intakes are .007" +/- .001" or .17mm +/- .02mm

It's very very very rare the valves are off ........especially at low mileage and off by that much.

 

[GregC]

So I took it in - they had quoted me the NT700 rate. The NC700 rate was $240 with valve check. For me , this interval was more about a maintenance record to preserve the regular and extended warranty - yes, I know as long as I can show the I did it the warranty is good, but I figure this is the first time they have seen the bike since i bought it so it's worth $240 to maintain relationship if I need warranty work.


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