Question Is Honda trying to stop us using any other brand of oil?

[GLC]

My 2022 NC750xD is coming up for its first 8000-mile oil change (after the initial 600 mile one) and its a pretty simple DIY job, not even needing any filter changes, so despite my advancing years I thought even I could undo one screw and refill with oil. The simple question of which oil to use saw me on Amazon/Walmart looking for the best deals. I like to go full synthetic but at not too ridiculous a price so around $27 will get you a gallon of Mobil 1 10-30 or the Valvoline 10-30. But wait a minute! Take a closer look at the manual (page 113) and the Honda approved API certifications on these synthetic oils. The Honda owner's manual clearly states that any oil marked with the American Pretoleum Institute seal showing "resource conserving" or "energy conserving" is NOT recommended. Pictures of these stamps with big X's through them emphasize this point in the manual. So, I started looking at other top brands such as Castrol GTX, Pennzoil Platinum, Shell and they all have "resource conserving" or "energy conserving" labels. The only oil I could find that doesn't have these labels is ....the Honda brand GN4, which is of course the oil recommended in the owner's manual and is I believe a mineral oil, not synthetic. Honda's HP4S synthetic oil is twice the price of the GN4 recommended oil.
So I sat down and thought about this. Is Honda trying to tell us that none of the top branded oils sold around the world are suitable for the NC750x or have they just thought up a good way to scare us into buying the Honda brand by disqualifying all the other brands? Or is the DCT such a peculiar piece of machinery that only GN4 oil is suitable? Then I thought about my riding here in rural Eastern Maryland where at 60 mph (legal limit here) the bike never normally gets above 4000rpm (60mph = 3000rpm), so hardly a stressed racing performance. Plus, it's never Arizona hot or Montana cold. So after hours of web searching, I caved and just bought the GN4 while acknowledging I have probably just been conned by Honda. What do you all think? And by the way does "energy conserving" and "resource conserving" have any technical value whatsoever? I doubt it. What do these terms actually mean? Are they just an API greenwash gimmick. I used to work for Shell in the aviation oil sales department when synthetic oils first came out for aircraft and there sure is a world of difference in performance between mineral oils and synthetic oils in aircraft jet engines. Somehow, I doubt my NC is going to need quite those performance characteristics the way I ride in my location. Appreciate any comments.

 

[670cc]

Honda is not rigging the game here. I’d guess other OEMs have the same or nearly the same oil recommendations. Do not be alarmed or frustrated. There are oils available that fit squarely within the specs given by Honda. However, the Honda GN4 is a fine oil and it is usually competitively priced. I do buy GN4 as it can be the best deal sometimes. In general, 10w-30 viscosity in motorcycle oil is much harder to find than 10w-40.

The DCT does not specify or require any different oil than does the manual clutch. We avoid energy conserving oils for wet clutch motorcycles because they can have anti-friction additives that are not good for the wet clutch, which is used in both DCT and manual.

If you get away from the automotive “aisle” and search or focus on motorcycle oils, you’ll find that most motorcycle oils with the 10w-30 viscosity are probably compatible with the NC engine. The problem is that 10w-30 is not popular among non-OEM oil brands. The important specs are the API rating and the JASO MA rating, and do not use energy conserving. You can use full synthetic if you want but it is not necessary. I have never put full synthetic in my NC.

When the NC was first introduced in 2012, it’s Honda service manual stated that both 10w-30 and 10w-40 were acceptable. I use either in my 2012 NC, based on whichever I have in stock.

 

[the Ferret]

I have been using GN4 10W 30 dino oil exclusively in my ST 1300 (110,000 miles), my CB 1100 (74,000 miles) and my NC 750X DCT (38,000 miles). Ridden in any and all weather conditions from -2F to +113F. There has never been an engine issue in any of them. If I was being conned by Honda, it was a good con, and one I can live with. I will continue to keep using GN4 10W30 as long as Honda recommends it, and as long as I have each particular motorcycle. BTW I use Honda specified OE filters (oil, dct and air) as well.

Truthfully any reputable 10w30 (or probably 10W40) dino or synthetic motorcycle specific oil will get the job done, as long as it's changed at manufacturers recommended mileages or thereabouts.

Motorcyclists sure like to make things so complicated.

 

[Dan German]

“Energy conserving” and similar claims are usually because the oil has additives to reduce friction. Motorcyle oils intended for wet clutches should NEVER have those additives. I have, on my limited income, managed to keep food on the table while buying the recommended oil for all my vehicles. (If you want a synthetic motorcycle oil that doesn’t break the bank, try LiquiMoly.)

 

[dduelin]

Stay out of the automobile aisle looking for 10w30 oil. The JASO MA certification of motor oil is very important to preserve the life of the clutch(es). Resource or Energy Conserving oils contain friction modifiers in the additive pack that can cause the clutch to slip. Cars and trucks do not combine the engine, clutch, and transmission in a shared oil supply like a Honda motorcycle does. Resource Conserving oils are OK in cars but never in a wet oil bath clutch.

 

[ewen]

I use MOTUL 7100 4T 10W-30 which is JASO MA2 and recommended by Honda. It was quite hard to find locally so had to order it.

 

[davidc83]

Suzuki, Kawasaki, most motorcycles have wet clutches. Energy conserving in oils will glaze the clutch and cause slipping and once glazed, the clutch plates need to be replaced. I am not going to mention the oil I use, we don't need an oil thread started.