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Oil change (oil and clutch filter) manual

I wanted to do it myself. Wife said no..(Waste of time on weekend, have to run to get the parts, The parts + oil ~$40), I ended up dropping it off and getting it serviced. Paid $116 . parts + oil + labor + recycle.

DCT parts are ~$15 more, as you need the clutch filter and o-ring. Next time I'm doing it myself. The shop will took 25 minutes to change everythin.
 
How big a job is it to remove and install that fairing?

Take out two screws and pull it off. Install is the opposite of removal. Just need to carefully align the plastic pins into the grommets. Once it's all lining up, push it on, then reinstall the two screws.
 
19ft-lbs of torque on the oil filter? I don't think I've ever torqued on an oil filter, hand tight plus a little extra. Maybe that's why they're such a pain to get off from the factory.
 
19ft-lbs of torque on the oil filter? I don't think I've ever torqued on an oil filter, hand tight plus a little extra. Maybe that's why they're such a pain to get off from the factory.

I agree. I broke my strap filter remover trying to get the factory filter off. Had to buy a filter wrench. I put it on as every other oil filter I ever put on - after contact, I go about 3/4 more and make sure it's good and snug.
Leaks? No, not ever.
 
19 ft lbs seems over kill to me.I changed mine last month.got it snug,then just a little more.no leakes for me either.
 
Now that I've said that, when I was working on Piper Navajo's up north we did torque the oil filters on to between 16-18ft-lbs, and then lockwire them on. They were a much, much larger filter though and all had the same stamped 1" nut on the end that K&N filters have. Cars, trucks, and bikes though I've never torqued a filter. When it comes to planes they get a little particular about following the manual to the letter.
 
The reason they're so tight from Honda is that they assemble them dry. The torque spec ends up being fairly similar to contact+3/4-to-1-turn that most automotive filters specify.
 
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