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No more flat tires!!

No experience with Rhino or similar, but being our tires the tubeless type, they are very easy to repair most of the times, you only need one of those repair kits with rubber strips and glue, that's all, small and easy to use.

Just my 2 cents
 
This is similar to what I use, just in case my previous words doesn't make sense:

1317651341_98469917_2-STANLEY-79-036-TUBELESS-TYRE-TIRE-REPAIR-KIT-Subic.jpg
 
It would be nice if somebody properly whipped this problem, and maybe this is it. If they do, the world will beat a path to their door. Although their video is convincing on the sealing ability of the product, what is not clear is the impact on tire longevity and cost. Will it increase the operating temperature of the tire and thus reduce mileage?
 
The "Ride-on" stuff that I'm using has many testimonial on thier website that it works and actually helps improve tire longevity. Plus you can install this yourself very easily. From the Rhino's website video it seems that the tire has to be un-mounted and have the sealant sprayed into the tire. Ride-on you just remove the valve stem hook up a tube to the bottle and squeeze it in, then install the vavle stem, fill the tire back up to operating pressure, remove old balancing weights (as Ride-on hydrodynamically balances the tire) and ride! I've used it before, using it now and will use it again.
 
JDE said:
The "Ride-on" stuff that I'm using has many testimonial on thier website that it works and actually helps improve tire longevity. Plus you can install this yourself very easily. From the Rhino's website video it seems that the tire has to be un-mounted and have the sealant sprayed into the tire. Ride-on you just remove the valve stem hook up a tube to the bottle and squeeze it in, then install the vavle stem, fill the tire back up to operating pressure, remove old balancing weights (as Ride-on hydrodynamically balances the tire) and ride! I've used it before, using it now and will use it again.
Click to expand...

Do you change your own tires? I have never used this, but have wondered whether it is a mess at tire change. On the heat question, the difference is that the Rhino material stays put. I know tube tires run hotter than tubeless because they hold in heat. Heavy tubes run even hotter and are not recommended for road speed. I'm not sure the thermal characteristics would be the same between Rhino and Ride-on. Don't know much about either, just thinking out loud.
 
I have never changed my own tires, yet. Not sure if I will in the future though, I might been thinking about it. Just need the tools. There's plenty of videos and info on Ride-on's website that should be able to answer most questions. They even take a motorcycle tire that has Ride-on in it off to show that it doesn't make a mess on the inside. It pretty much stays on the contact patch area inside the tire. Once you put it in and ride it get flung to the contact patch and stays there for the most part. It may settle if you let the bike sit for long periods of time without riding. but according to them once you ride again and warm up the tires it goes back to where it should be, on the inside of the contact patch.
 
I've used Slime in the past, both successfully and not. I've known a lot of riders who swear by the Ride-On product, which is very similar.

I had my bike for only a few thousand miles when I got a screw in the rear tire. I tried one of the inexpensive "worm" repair kits from O'Reilly's Auto parts. It worked ...sort of. Some air was still leaking out very very slowly. Probably caused by a lack of experience and technique on my part. I didn't feel comfortable with the repair, and lots of people on the forum back then recommended buying a new tire. So I did. I had put Slime in, which I think did seal the remaining leak, but the new tire was already on order, so I changed it out. $130 later, I had a new rear tire.

Forward a couple more months, and I find a cotter pin now in this new tire. I pulled it out and there was just the tiniest leak in it. I did a mental exercise in my head. On one hand, there were the nay-sayers about using Slime and advocating replacing any tire that had a puncture. On the other hand was my wife sitting upstairs who I'd have to explain to on why I needed to spend another $130 so soon...and how expensive this "cost-saving" motorcycle commuting was getting to be. I chose the Slime. Still married. :D

The Slime worked. That was at about 4000 miles on the rear tire. Another few thousand miles later, I picked up a medium sized nail. The nail was good sized. I pulled it out with the puncture at the 3 o'clock position and the air was whooshing out fast. I turned the tire so the puncture was now at 6 o'clock and a couple tablespoons of thin green liquid came out...and the air quit leaking. That tire was a magnet for metal debris it seemed. I picked up one or two more small sized nails before changing it out. I rode that tire for almost 15,000 miles with no air leaks.

When it didn't work was when I was commuting on I-405 through Bellevue, WA at rush-hour. It appears a roofing size nail went in...and back out immediately. The Slime I had in the tire didn't have a chance with a hole that sized and spinning that fast. There was a mess all over the inside of the wheel well area...that rinsed off with a hose. Slime and Ride-On are water soluble and bio-degradable.

The difference in the two holes I think was that on the first hole, I gave the Slime a chance to work by moving the puncture to the bottom of the tire. The Slime could pool up and the fibers in it, could form a "log-jam" to block the air from getting out. A tire rotating at 60 mph, won't have the opportunity for that to happen.

When I replaced the first "Slimed" tire, I wanted to see if the horror stories were true. Would my nice alloy rim be permanently corroded? Would gunk be making a mess everywhere? So I asked to be called in to watch as the tire was broken down. I think the mechanic was primed to say something, knowing there was Slime inside. When he pulled off the tire, he said something like, "What a MESS!"...but there wasn't one. If the Slime had been in there only a week or so, then there would've been. But the Slime had been in the tire for over 10,000 miles and close to a year. It had skinned over inside the tread area and couldn't be seen without a flashlight. Some had dripped onto the wheel hub area and hardened from the heat. But it wasn't much and it came off without much effort when washed. BTW, there was no corrosion inside the tire.

I always carry a Stop-N-Go mushroom plug kit. It is small and lightweight. When I go on a long distance ride, I always add a Slime repair kit with the small electric pump. One of them will get me back on the road again.

Chris
 
lamlamz said:
TPM cap
Click to expand...

I would suggest that you be careful with the TPM cap on the rubber stem. I had one break and create a flat. If you notice the stem taking a "lean" after time, you may be about to have the same issue. I would recommend a short straight metal stem if you are going to keep the TPM cap.
 
Beemerphile said:
I would suggest that you be careful with the TPM cap on the rubber stem. I had one break and create a flat. If you notice the stem taking a "lean" after time, you may be about to have the same issue. I would recommend a short straight metal stem if you are going to keep the TPM cap.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice. How do I get the metal stem? Easy to change I guess?
 
lamlamz said:
Thanks for the advice. How do I get the metal stem? Easy to change I guess?
Click to expand...

Easy to change, but you have to break down the sidewall bead and de-mount one side of the tire. You might be OK just waiting until the next tire change and using a good straight metal stem at that time. Or you could hold off on using the TPM cap until after you change the stem. It took a while for mine to take a set and break, but I know it didn't last the life of the tire because I change rubber stems every time I change tires.

ETA: Looking more closely at your cap, it may be lighter and smaller than the one I had trouble with. It may work fine if it is very light. Just be on the lookout for the stem to start leaning. I don't wish to be an alarmist, just pointing out what happened with mine.
 
Last edited:
I did this with my last bike (BMW F800ST) and am hoping to replicate it to a similar degree with the 700XA

I'm a fan of the common gummy worm flat repair method. They've always worked awesome for me.


Stuffed in one of those little 12V mini air compressors, hardwired it into a relay switched power source. A couple quick release fittings, some cut to fit lightweight airhose, and voila:











 
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