• A few people have been scammed on the site, Only use paypal to pay for items for sale by other members. If they will not use paypal, its likely a scam NEVER SEND E-TRANSFERS OF ANY KIND.

Loud Clunk shift from Neutral

Sorry to pour some cold water on all this.
I bought my NCX from a reputed Honda dealer and paid "top" dollar (aka recommended retail price).
What I realise is the inherent "service" which is associated with having purchased this bike from a good dealer, who will install, assembly and test the bike prior to giving the bike to me.
If there is any followup actions or rectifications to be made, the Honda dealer makes it without batting any eye and I pay nothing.

So guys, I am unsure if your dealer just gave you the cheapest deal, and then assemble and gave you the bike without road-testing it.
With such complaints (clutch hot, sounds bad, weird noises), I'd rather go back to the dealer and let them tell me what is wrong.
I am not the Honda expert, they are. And if you cannot trust your dealer, then it is a sad deal anyway.

Sometimes we get what we paid for.
:(
 
I have an agreement with my dealer which is they don't try to run a train service and I don't try to fix bikes :). Seriously I trust my dealer with whom I have dealt for many years to sort out any problems I may have
 
Same goes from time to time with DCT version... it doesn't sound unnatural though (as far as I can concern myself as a specialist in here LoL).
 
Mine also, 1st to 2nd and also downshifting 2nd to 1st. I think the trans has to long of shifting through in the lower gears.
 
Mine's a clunker too... any time you put it in first, clunk.

It is hard to tell if the OP is noticing just the normal clunk that all bikes seem to have, or if maybe his is extra loud. I think the clunk is caused by clutch friction. If the clutch was released 100% there would never be a clunk. So I would first ask if the clutch is adjusted correctly, and is being pulled all the way. If it is, then maybe there is an issue with the clutch itself.

Using a heavier viscosity oil might also make this problem worse. I saw in the manual that using Oil rated FS for fuel savings cannot be used because it affects the clutch (I assume it is too slippery and causes it to slip?). OP, what kind of oil is in it?
 
Hi all! I had same problem but going worse. Began with loud clunk in first gear. Went on switching to second became hard. Now It is sextremely hard to switch upwards and i think by swithing it stucks. Doesnt go at once bit the mowement of the switch breaks in two. I hope it is only oil. However I have now 3800 kms in the NC and last oil change was at 1000. Has anybody got similar problem?
 
Hi all! I had same problem but going worse. Began with loud clunk in first gear. Went on switching to second became hard. Now It is sextremely hard to switch upwards and i think by swithing it stucks. Doesnt go at once bit the mowement of the switch breaks in two. I hope it is only oil. However I have now 3800 kms in the NC and last oil change was at 1000. Has anybody got similar problem?

What kind of oil is in it?
 
What kind of oil is in it?

No idea :-( It was changed by my dealer service by the regular 1000 km check. After reading this forum I Looked up the service invoice but there is only "oil" written. No type. I didnt know there is something like fuel save oil and such.. This service put once oil in my VTR250 that had to be changed after 1500 km. I will be quite disappointe if this is the case again. What type of oil shall I tell them to put in? Or NOT to put in?
 
Like I said, if you pull the clutch in & blip the throttle a bit it will free the plates. Do it longer for thicker oil & colder engines.
Mine still clunks a bit but the other day it slipped into first so quietly (after my clutch routine) it surprised me.
 
What type of oil shall I tell them to put in? Or NOT to put in?

The owners manual say 10W30 rated SF and energy saving is not allowed.

I would tend to think a dealer would know the correct oil to use though ...

Has the shift lever, shaft and cable been lubed?
 
Last edited:
The owners manual say 5W30 rated SG and energy saving is not allowed.

I would tend to think a dealer would know the correct oil to use though ...

Has the shift lever, shaft and cable been lubed?

L.B.S. reports that the "energy saving" designation means there is an additive that's not compatible with the bike's "wet clutch".
There are a couple "oil" threads. Here's one that might be interesting. People gave some good evidence for what to use, and, more importantly, taught me what to look for.

My next oil change will be with Rotella T6, and you can read about why HERE.
 
The owners manual say 5W30 rated SG and energy saving is not allowed.

In the Honda Service Manual, the viscosity recommended is SAE 10W-30 for USA and Canuckland. It may very well be a different figure in some other countries, but I don't know to be honest.

10W-30 and 10W-40 are shown on the temperature scale chart in the -10C to 50C range.

"Pro Honda GN4 4-stroke oil (USA and Canada) or equivalent motor oil API service classification: SG or higher. JASO T 903 standard: MA Viscosity: 10W-30"
 
Hi all! I had same problem but going worse. Began with loud clunk in first gear. Went on switching to second became hard. Now It is sextremely hard to switch upwards and i think by swithing it stucks. Doesnt go at once bit the mowement of the switch breaks in two. I hope it is only oil. However I have now 3800 kms in the NC and last oil change was at 1000. Has anybody got similar problem?

Welcome Vandis :)

You may want to check out this thread:

http://nc700-forum.com/forum/nc700-technical/3023-unable-shift-first-neutral-2nd.html

cburn mentions difficulty shifting from first to second gear, the actual problem, and a resolution involving a relatively minor repair required.

I'm not saying that's what your difficulty is, but if so, at least you know you are not alone, and it is something that can be solved without too much grief.

Read through the whole thread, but I think posts 34 and 38 on page 4 specifically list the actual part that was faulty.

Good luck with your efforts, and please let us know how it goes!
 
My new to me NC has just under 1,000 mi. I own 200 of those miles. My gear box observations are this is not Honda's silkiest transmission. Until now, I mess with the clutch adjuster every time i get on it. I can't adjust it to silky smooth shifting. I expected something a bit slicker. It's not Harley or old Guzzi horrible, but it's not buttery smooth. I find the gear box is a bit slow. Pull the clutch and wait a couple seconds and it snicks into first quietly. I think the gear box inertia is greater than expected by me. That just keeps it moving after I expect a slick shift. Maybe some more miles will help the shifting action slightly. Yes sometimes, while moving, it shifts effortlessly. So I need to learn to work the bike better, since it won't change for me. Oh Yea, I have fresh Rotella Dinosaur oil in it. I'll try some recommended oil at the next oil change. I did not notice any change in shifting from the original oil.
 
Welcome Vandis :)

You may want to check out this thread:

http://nc700-forum.com/forum/nc700-technical/3023-unable-shift-first-neutral-2nd.html

cburn mentions difficulty shifting from first to second gear, the actual problem, and a resolution involving a relatively minor repair required.

I'm not saying that's what your difficulty is, but if so, at least you know you are not alone, and it is something that can be solved without too much grief.

Read through the whole thread, but I think posts 34 and 38 on page 4 specifically list the actual part that was faulty.

Good luck with your efforts, and please let us know how it goes!



Thank you! I will check it!
 
I asked and dealer said they have put in the best oil (I used to ask for Motul), right tpye.
Shift lever they adjusted but cable not lubed.
Some say it is not OK that my bike jumps slightly while putting it into 1st gear. My previous bike did it too.

What I tried now it that I warm up the bike every time for a longer time before start off. Actually, it seems to work but I need to do this every time, even after the shortest brake (eg. stopping for fuel up).
I am going on monitoring the bike for a few times before going back to the dealer (or search for another professional).
 
Back
Top