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I am somewhat amazed.

Johninaz

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I just got back from the dealer with a bright red 2015 NC700 DCT. I have been riding for over 40 years and always had a clutch. I was very concerned about very low speed parking lot type maneuvers. Well that was silly, no problem at all I just can't believe how smooth the clutch action is.

One complaint I always had with my CB500F is that first gear was so short I was always shifting during a turn in an intersection, a real pain. This bike shifts during the same turn but it is so smooth I hear the shift but I am not sure I can even feel it. Very nice.

From my reading on the forum; I knew far more about the bike then the "delivery person" did. I think this is the first DCT they have ever sold.

So with only 30 miles all seems well. A few air shifts when coming to a stop but no other problems. Time to build some mile and let the falkleing begin.
 
I just got back from the dealer with a bright red 2015 NC700 DCT. I have been riding for over 40 years and always had a clutch. I was very concerned about very low speed parking lot type maneuvers.

So with only 30 miles all seems well. A few air shifts when coming to a stop but no other problems. Time to build some mile and let the falkleing begin.

Let me be the first to congratulate you on making the move to DCT and the "DARK SIDE".

I would recomended that you use "MT-Mode" for all your slow speed maneuvers. Also you should try riding around in "S-Mode", I think that you will find it more pleasurable... :eek:
 

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The only moments when I feel the gearbox working, is a cold start and upshifting from 1st to 2nd gear - I can feel the clunk on my foot pegs.
But that never translates to acceleration - thanks to dual clutch, always smooth as butter.

Enjoy your DCT, and welcome to the dark side ;)
 
Sometimes i think that "rev-bombing" would be nice. Not for fun, but as a way of making one-self noticable without using the miep (horn). Most people find the horn much more offensive than a revving engine. Watching videos of people using the horn vs revving the engine it seems you could just as well yell the worst slurs at people instead of using the horn, the reaction coming back is the same.

In fact, i noticed it a few days a go in my car: A group was jaywalking in the dark although there was a pedestrian crossing 15 meters away (would've taken them propably 15 additional seconds but noboday has time for that, right!?). I used the horn at them and the immediate reaction was a agitated gesture like i was driving on the sidewalk.
On the other side when i see videos of rev-bombing (not for fun, but for jaywalking or red-jumping pedestrians) people do the right thing and get out of the way faster.

If there was a rev-bombing horn i'd actually consider it (given a reasonable price).
 
I plan to upgrade to the 2017 NC when I feel it will be out in my Red color.

I would give my cousin a killer deal on my 2013 but he wants a manual shift.

I run my 2013 in manual only because I don't like the NCs' full auto shift points in traversing these WV hills; they are way too early and lug the engine more than I like. The beauty of DCT is its' much easier to run manually than the old hand clutch/foot lever and gives one the best of both worlds.
 
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I run my 2013 in manual only because I don't like the NCs' full auto shift points in traversing these WV hills; they are way too early and lug the engine more than I like. The beauty of DCT is its' much earlier to run manually than the old hand clutch/foot lever and gives one the best of both worlds.

Unless I'm missing something; you don't need to go to MT mode, to drive in (pseudo MT) self shifting mode, does one?
all I need to do is use the thumb for down and forefinger for up while in (AT) D or S mode.

Am I missing something that says you shouldn't ride the bike this way?

I self shift all of the time when the D or S mode doesn't match the terrain/condition/speed/rev's

I find if I switch to MT mode, then it forces me to shift, making it a lot more work (and frankly, a PIA cause I've gotten so used to riding the way I do).

so I guess I kind of ride it hybrid, shift when I want/need, auto when I don't necessarily need to pay that close attention.

I live in a very hilly/twisty area, almost every turn I thumb down once....maybe twice....I don't wait for the bike to do it
 
+1 on the use of S-mode being more pleasurable. I also rarely use the manual paddle shifters.
 
I got a chance to watch the Keith Code Twist of the Wrist II DVD again last night and it made me think about being smooth with the throttle through the entire turn and not upsetting the suspension when traction is minimal (while leaned over.) Do you guys find that the DCT shifts appropriately and smoothly enough in the turns to make this a non-issue, or is the solution to switch to S mode, or manual mode, or a temporary downshift for twisty roads? How about on dirt, sand, rocks, oil and other nastiness where even just a bit of suspension change would equal a get off?

Found this older video which demonstrates what the suspension does under manual vs DCT action. It's pretty sweet, no detectable suspension changes during shifting...

[video=youtube;G52EIYx2yso]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G52EIYx2yso[/video]
 
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I got a chance to watch the Keith Code Twist of the Wrist II DVD again last night and it made me think about being smooth with the throttle through the entire turn and not upsetting the suspension when traction is minimal (while leaned over.) Do you guys find that the DCT shifts appropriately and smoothly enough in the turns to make this a non-issue, or is the solution to switch to S mode, or manual mode, or a temporary downshift for twisty roads? How about on dirt, sand, rocks, oil and other nastiness where even just a bit of suspension change would equal a get off?

I really cant speak to dirt/gravel, but I can tell you that the smoothness of the operation on pavement and even a lap or 3 on the track gives a very smooth transition when the traction is minimized. I have friends that comment on how far this bike leans and comes up and down smoothly in the lean. I haven't been off this one (yet), nor have I ever even felt a hitch in the suspension while shifting in the tilted situation. However it is a soft suspension, so maybe that helps not translate the shift jolt, up or down
 
the more we are open to new idea the more technology improves and accelerate.

if you have driven or ridden an electric vehicle. it is the next great thing. i can truly saw it is superior then a combustion engine
 
the more we are open to new idea the more technology improves and accelerate.

if you have driven or ridden an electric vehicle. it is the next great thing. i can truly saw it is superior then a combustion engine

I agree! I've got an 'off-road' electric 'bicycle' that can hit 40mph and beats most cars off the line with instant torque...

So... does anyone know exactly how the new 2016's DCT 'S' shift modes work? I'd imagine they'd be the same as the Africa Twin and VFR but has anyone ridden those yet?

If the new modes are an improvement, then that a big incentive to get the 2016 vs an older model. (And that muffler!) I think all the other changes are just style.
 
The 2016 DCT will probably have the same or very similar software shift points as earlier models. I ride in MT mode all the time, regardless of terrain, so auto shift points are a non issue for me.
Personally, I would be satisfied if the bike had no D and S auto modes. The MT toggles simply make shifting easier than the (hand/foot lever) standard method, while still enjoy being in control of engine revs.

The silver wheels are the biggest reason for my change. I simply hate black wheels. The bigger frunk and more stylish (and open sound) can are also good.

My bike has 3K miles and the z rated Metzlers are down to the wear indicators up front already. I've had issues w/front tire adhesion and will be going to Bridgestones.
 
I got a chance to watch the Keith Code Twist of the Wrist II DVD again last night and it made me think about being smooth with the throttle through the entire turn and not upsetting the suspension when traction is minimal (while leaned over.) Do you guys find that the DCT shifts appropriately and smoothly enough in the turns to make this a non-issue, or is the solution to switch to S mode, or manual mode, or a temporary downshift for twisty roads? How about on dirt, sand, rocks, oil and other nastiness where even just a bit of suspension change would equal a get off?

Found this older video which demonstrates what the suspension does under manual vs DCT action. It's pretty sweet, no detectable suspension changes during shifting...

[video=youtube;G52EIYx2yso]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G52EIYx2yso[/video]
The gearbox does normally upshift in a manner smooth enough not to upset the suspension in a corner. Without ride-by-wire the automatic downshifts can be a little rougher than I like coming from 45 years of downshifting manually. If riding fast and trail braking into the corner, that is I'm still on the brakes after tipping into the corner, I do not want the rear tire to break traction by the addition of extra engine braking from a clumsy downshift.

Two things I've learned about the DCT have helped me here. If I'm riding fast I've learned if I do not completely close the throttle while braking to the apex the downshifts, both manual overrides with the - paddle or automatic ones, tend to more closely duplicate a rev-matched old-fashioned manual downshift. Another technique is to use the - paddle and anticipate the downshift and time it with a blip of throttle just like a old fashioned manual box.

On most rides I am in and out of all the modes depending on the needs of the moment. Speaking generally if I'm riding in a sporting manner I manually downshift into the corners and let the box upshift automatically out of the corner. If the corner is longer than a few seconds and I know the box will upshift before I want it to I'll trigger it into manual to hold the gear until I want an upshift.

While the DCT will handle everything in D or S it still allows me to engage with shifting as much as I want to - or not want to. I can cruise along and let it do everything, or part of the work, or none of the work of shifting. If I'm riding with a few friends I'm riding the least powerful bike and when the pace picks up I think it's great fun to engage my NCX at the highest level of performance it's possible of giving and show them my tail or keep glued to theirs. The NC really handles well and most riders I know aren't using near the capabilities of their 100 to 175 hp bike on the street so 50 hp and good corner speeds are all I need.
 
On most rides I am in and out of all the modes depending on the needs of the moment. Speaking generally if I'm riding in a sporting manner I manually downshift into the corners and let the box upshift automatically out of the corner. If the corner is longer than a few seconds and I know the box will upshift before I want it to I'll trigger it into manual to hold the gear until I want an upshift.

While the DCT will handle everything in D or S it still allows me to engage with shifting as much as I want to - or not want to. I can cruise along and let it do everything, or part of the work, or none of the work of shifting. If I'm riding with a few friends I'm riding the least powerful bike and when the pace picks up I think it's great fun to engage my NCX at the highest level of performance it's possible of giving and show them my tail or keep glued to theirs. The NC really handles well and most riders I know aren't using near the capabilities of their 100 to 175 hp bike on the street so 50 hp and good corner speeds are all I need.

Dave, I couldn't have said it better, my exact sentiments

I use a local shop for things "not in my realm of patience", My mechanic told my wife when she was researching and testing, "It's much more fun to ride a small bike fast, than ride a big bike slow" (she ended up with an FZ-07 that has turned her riding up about 4 notches)
 
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