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Creating a dedicated key for the storage compartment

When I posted this thread I was using the stock windshield. Different windshields affect whether or not the frunk lid opens on it's own and how fast you have to be going.
 
I would be nervous about putting a knob on it and leaving it in the lock. It would be sooooo very easy to get distracted while parking the bike and inadvertently leaving the key in the lock.
Now someone has your ignition key to ride it away and MOST insurance companies will pay ZERO if they determine your key was used.
 
I would be nervous about putting a knob on it and leaving it in the lock. It would be sooooo very easy to get distracted while parking the bike and inadvertently leaving the key in the lock.
Now someone has your ignition key to ride it away and MOST insurance companies will pay ZERO if they determine your key was used.

That's why a lot of us have cut them down and/or filed off some of the teeth. The frunk only uses the fist bit of the key, not the whole thing. I cut mine down and filed off the teeth that aren't used, so there's no way it'll start the bike, you can only access the frunk with it.

trey
 
Most people wouldn't even know it had a frunk, let alone that it had a key hole. I reckon the general public wouldn't even notice it, that's why I want to use a goldwing radio knob so it looks like part of the original bike.

Besides, you could always attach to your ignition key or your jacket zip if it worried you that much.

As for insurance, the key used to steal your bike is a newly cut one, you'd still have both original keys so no questions asked, as long as it doesn't get recovered and they see that there's no ignition damage.
 
I would be nervous about putting a knob on it and leaving it in the lock. It would be sooooo very easy to get distracted while parking the bike and inadvertently leaving the key in the lock.
Now someone has your ignition key to ride it away and MOST insurance companies will pay ZERO if they determine your key was used.
If you use the key blanks given in post #1 they are not long enough to use to start the bike. It only fits the storage compartment lock. If you insert it in the ignition it doesn't stick in far enough to unlock the switch.
 
If you use the key blanks given in post #1 they are not long enough to use to start the bike. It only fits the storage compartment lock. If you insert it in the ignition it doesn't stick in far enough to unlock the switch.

Oh yeah, and don't forget the HISS.
 
If you use the key blanks given in post #1 they are not long enough to use to start the bike. It only fits the storage compartment lock. If you insert it in the ignition it doesn't stick in far enough to unlock the switch.

I used the key blank info listed in post #1 and had the local locksmith make me copy of my key. It is 100% IDENTICAL to the original stock key and it will definitely start the bike.
I simply decided to grind the head of the key down as far as I could and still be able to turn it and I keep it in my wallet.
Can't even feel its in there and it can't be lost since I keep my wallet in a zippered pocket of my riding pants.
 
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If you use the key blanks given in post #1 they are not long enough to use to start the bike. It only fits the storage compartment lock. If you insert it in the ignition it doesn't stick in far enough to unlock the switch.

See post #11 for the correct key numbers that work. Ride safe.
 
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Only just seen this thread - and I'm on it today! Another reason for doing this mod that hasn't been mentioned so far (unless I missed it) is that the long OE ignition key is very vulnerable to getting knocked and bent while parked in the frunk lock. Not just by 'clumsy' owners btw but also by 'highly-trained' dealership technicians - my supplying dealer admitted that's what happened to one of my OE keys when I pointed out it was slightly banana-shaped!
 
I used the HD 109 and it will not turn the ignition.


ahem, while on my ride today I was showing off how the key only opens the frunk, and the #$@%&* thing actually turned the ignition ...

so my question is, where did you guys file down the key so it only works in the frunk?
 
ahem, while on my ride today I was showing off how the key only opens the frunk, and the #$@%&* thing actually turned the ignition ...

so my question is, where did you guys file down the key so it only works in the frunk?

Stick the key in the frunk lock and note the teeth showing with it inserted. Remove it, grind/file down those teeth.

trey
 
ahem, while on my ride today I was showing off how the key only opens the frunk, and the #$@%&* thing actually turned the ignition ...

so my question is, where did you guys file down the key so it only works in the frunk?
Looking back through the first part of the thread I was probably wrong. I looked at a 109 key blank yesterday and compared it to both the key I made and my original ignition key. The HD109 is grooved like an ignition key and would start the bike if cut identical to the original. The hardware store I went to did not have a HD105 to look at but the key blank I used to make my frunk key is about 2/3rd the length of a 109 and will not start the bike.
 
Okay, I may be dumb as a post, in this picture of the HD 109 key in the frunk it looks like all of the cut portion is in the lock.
I have no idea where to file. Why am I making something simple so complicated? :confused:

HD_109_Key.jpg
 
Okay, I may be dumb as a post, in this picture of the HD 109 key in the frunk it looks like all of the cut portion is in the lock.
I have no idea where to file. Why am I making something simple so complicated? :confused:


I can't speak for anyone else, but I don't *think* any of us did special filing of any kind. Most that I'm aware of, used the duplicate key to embed in a knob of some sort, after cutting the head of the key off. With the "stub" of the key sticking out of whatever knob you choose to epoxy it in, I think it just effectively limits how far the key can be pushed down into the ignition, by default.

At least that's how mine works, anyhow. :)
 
Hmm, I'll have to look at mine when I get back to the house. I specifically remember filing it down, I could've swore mine had teeth outside the lock barrel in the frunk. Maybe I had a different blank? Yours does indeed turn the ignition Grey?

trey
 
I bought a replacement key and placed it in the frunk key hole. I marked it about 3/8" above where it would be flush and where it was flush. I used a dremel to cut notches into the shaft above the flush mark and the 3/8ths mark to lock it in to the composite resin. I filled the cap 80% with resin and pushed the shaft with the notches through a piece of cardboard until I couldn't see the 3/8th line keeping the key as vertical as possible. I can't start the bike with the key, and I can't imagine anyone would think the 'key' was anything but an oem part of the bike.

20130712_171910-M.jpg


20130712_170707-M.jpg


Edit: Meant to add that the cap is from a 2-stroke oil container. Cost: 0
 
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