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Creating a dedicated key for the storage compartment

- although it's as easy to close one of their keys in the frunk as it is one of ours.

Loosing or misplacing a key at any time (500 miles from home) or any reason is a problem (locked in the frunk)...............solution.........hide a key on the bike or other places:

Black duct tape one to the inside fairing panels, inside a turn signal lens, inside a length rubber hose, liner of your riding jacket or helmet, flat key in your wallet, possibilities are endless.
 
A huge thanks to dduelin for starting this thread, and being the pioneer inspiration! :D



So still feeling a little under the weather, (and the weather is awesome these past few days! :mad: :() I decided today would be "key" day.

Have been wanting to do this for ages, but always put it off. Dug out my spare Ilco key (it was the same as one of the taller ones shown earlier in this thread) I had bought months back, and poked around on my parts shelf for an old Home Depot threaded star knob I remembered having.

Heated the metal threaded bit with a heat gun, and pulled it out of the plastic knob. The threaded bit actually turned out to be a bolt, not a section of threaded rod like I had thought.

Cut down the spare key, put a few notches/grooves in it for grip, drilled a wee hole through the shoulder of the plastic knob and through the key. Heated up the key stub, and pushed/mooshed the hot metal into the plastic. Inserted a piece of broken drill bit through the knob and key to act as a secondary anchor, mixed up some quick set epoxy putty, and glorped a healthy amount in all holes and crevices.

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Next on the list, was my saddlebags annoyance. I hate having to dig out a key every time I want to open/close the lids on my Trax panniers. I had heard that getting spare SW Motech keys for the locksets was difficult for some reason, and people usually had to buy spare ($$$) from 'Motech or go to a good locksmith.

:phooie: to that, says I. lol

Found that Yale Y11 key blanks work perfectly, and I bought a pair of them for like $4.99 at the local shopping mall key store. I did discover that the "nose" of the Yale key is a little more rounded than the Trax key, and made it a bit sucky to initially put in the locks, though. So I just angled the nose profile of each key to a slightly sharper point with a couple quick swipes of the file, and they go in perfectly now. :)

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I have an absurdly lazy yet cunning plan for the keys and the Trax boxes, so I can leave the keys in the locks, but not fear losing them, or carrying them on a key ring, or leaving them in the panniers when I leave the bike unattended. Heh heh heh. Stay tuned for this, I am waiting for my Ebay purchase to arrive before I can complete this.
 
Back in the day an older bmw I had used a folding key, will see if I can locate it and take a photo. I allowed the plastic top part to fold 180 degree so it laid flat once inserted, probably used on the /6 models back in the day.
 
Back in the day an older bmw I had used a folding key, will see if I can locate it and take a photo. I allowed the plastic top part to fold 180 degree so it laid flat once inserted, probably used on the /6 models back in the day.
My /7 R100 had the same type of key.
 
....
In the US they don't have the same insurance pressure that we have in Europe so I think their bikes don't have HISS to start with - although it's as easy to close one of their keys in the frunk as it is one of ours.
Will go read my Honda USA manual on that point :)
Purchased the bike for the engine and did not even check to see if it had this type of security that came with it.
 
... I made a key with a knob for this and the key can stay in the lock when I am riding or the bike is out in my garage. This key is not long enough to start the bike.

Great idea dduelin, thank you. Had wanted to do this so will today. Of course my aprilia mana has the lid installed correctly :) seems Honda put it on backwards for safety reasons then again bars have to be straight on my aprilia to full open the lid and not so with the Honda.
 
I have a dedicated trunk key too. But left it just as a stock key. On trips it turns into my spare key. I keep it in a different location, or hand it to my travel buddy as a just incase scenario.

It is so useful, I can not imagine not having a trunk key all the time now. I'm in and out of the frunk so much I'd be shutting the engine down all the time. So in essence it is prolonging engine life too!
 
The dealer made a spare frunk key for mine so people could open it and they.could leave key in it.its only for the frunk and they gave it to me so i keep it in my coat pocket so no shutting bike off.it comes in handy at food drive tbrus.
 
Finally got around to making a dedicated frunk key. Just used a cap from a two stroke oil container.

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Hello guys!

I am in the process of making my own dedicated frunk key.

Question: Does it have to be a motorcycle key to be cut and used?

I went to my local ACE Hardware store and told them I needed an HD 109 and they said that they only had up to 103. Plus, that it had to be a motorcycle key to work on the bike. I told them I was not going to use it in the ignition to operate the bike. Still I was told that the key has to be exactly the same and have the save grooves. Is this correct?

Thank you for your help!

Tony
 
The only key blanks I've used are the HD 109, so they are the only ones I can say will definitely work. I'd suggest you try a different Ace Hardware store. Ace stores are independently owned, and some carry a lot more items than others. I got my keys and had them cut at an Ace Hardware, so I know at least some of them carry the blanks. If you can't find them at Ace, you can always try a local locksmith. The HD 109 isn't normally hard to find.

Hope this helps,
Bob
 
I used a brake cleaner cap to cover my cut down key for the frunk. Total cost was $5 for a cut key and epoxy. I'm 1400 miles away from home at the moment or I would post a pic. But it looks just like docwells7's except my cap is a little taller.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 4
 
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