Chain and Sprokets

[potter0o]

I am planning to purchase a new chain and sprockets as I am getting close to the replace marks on the swingarm. I believe it is the stock chain as I see no aftermarket master link. I'm coming on to 20k miles so it seems like I have gotten a lot of life relative to most users without an auto oiler.

I tried to read a number of threads and just wanted others to review where I am at to see if I am missing anything. This will be my first chain replacement so the standard over analysis is in play . While I have the bike apart I was planning on lubing the swing arm and checking the rear wheel bearing.

Sprocket Center seemed to have a good layout with fair pricing. I have signed up for their newsletter. Do they ever send out discount codes?

DID Chain 520 VX2 Pro-Street X'ring Chain - GOLD or NATURAL (choose length) I have selected the natrual color of the VX2 chain. Seem like it has a good price relative to the tread wear index when comparing other chains. I have a manual so was planning on the 114 link model.

DID Chain 520 VX2 Master Link - RIVET TYPE (Gold or Natural) Was going to go with the hollow tipped, rivet sytle master link. Adding in a spare gold link in case I pooch the first one. Wanted the gold link just for ease of finding the link and being able to have a visual reference point when rotating the chain.

JT Sprockets (#JTF1373) 520 Pitch Chromoly-Steel Front Sprocket and JT Sprockets (#JTR1303) 520 Pitch Steel Rear Sprocket Have selected the JT sprockets. Seems like the idea of a good chain with some basic steel sprockets is the best value. I figure if I have it apart might as well replace everything. If I compare wear to the new ones I may hold the old ones for reuse. The rear sprocket is supposed to be black which may help hide the chain lube mess.

I have purchased a basic chain tool from the local automotive store. My plan is just to cut the chain off with a grinder. Hope this will make the tool last longer if I only use it for attaching the master link.

Anyone have input, advice or recommendations on the verbose plan so far?

 

[Beemerphile]

My plan is just to cut the chain off with a grinder. Hope this will make the tool last longer if I only use it for attaching the master link.

I would just grind the mushroomed heads off of the pins and press it out with the tool or knock it out with a punch. That takes the stress off the tool but doesn't throw nearly as many sparks as grinding the link sideplates. For what it is worth, I have a 36 inch set of bolt cutters that I use to execute old chains. I am nervous about lots of sparks around gas-fueled items.

I would replace the front sprocket regardless of how it looked. The rear most likely is fine, but I often re-use them based on inspection.

 

[Jut8]

A dremel with a small cut off wheel makes quick job of cutting old chains off with not a lot of sparks compared to the angle grinder. I go right through the side plates, a few seconds and your done.

I haven't tried the bolt cutter method, but that sounds nice and quick too, I may try that next time, the lil tw200 is in need of a drivetrain refresh

 

[misterk]

I just replaced my chain and sprockets. I replaced the oem at 8500 miles (kinky). I put a x ring on and was getting a popping sound from chain at 25k miles.

I ordered a chain and sprocket from sprocket center. They sent me a 114 link, i needed a 111 link. I used my chain tool to take out 3 links.

I think the sprockets were fine, but they are cheap parts to replace. Chain, front and rear sprockets were $125 including shipping at sprocket center.


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[Deleted member 1183]

Whatever about the chain and rear sprocket, you will be well advised to use Honda original as a replacement for the countershaft sprocket. The reason is that some aftermarket items wear the splines prematurely on the shaft. This is also an issue on some other Honda models. A countershaft is a real pain to replace by comparison........

 

[Deleted member 5383]

The PBI front sprocket I use now is probably superior materials, tolerances and machining compared to the stock one -- or at worse, equivalent. The same has been true on aftermarket countersprockets for my WR250R. I'd say it comes down to specific examples/companies...