2016: What did you do to/with your NC700 today?

[rippin209]

I ordered the brightest white 1156 led bulbs I could find for the front turn signals. Hopefully they will meet my expectations.

Please report back with details after using them, I'm also interested in switching my turn signals to LED. Already did the headlight and taillight

 

[rippin209]

My experience with tailights taught me to use the color LED that matches the lens color. In the case of tail lights, white LEDs have very little red content in the spectrum, so the resulting light output looks pink through the red lens.

I wondered why you chose white LEDs instead of amber, but I've not tried white behind an amber lens. I'd be curious as to how the light color turns out.

Good to know. The taillight I got was red but I wasn't looking for one or the other specifically. I was disappointed in the fact it wasn't any brighter then the original

 

[zirconx]

Good to know. The taillight I got was red but I wasn't looking for one or the other specifically. I was disappointed in the fact it wasn't any brighter then the original

Yea I've tried LEDs a few times in my various taillights but always ended up sending them back. But I found this $20 flashing LED to be as bright as a regular bulb. I like that it flashes both the brake and the tail, it's really attention-getting. I think I have a post on here somewhere showing the difference (perhaps I only did that for my CBR250...) between this bulb and a regular bulb.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...-high-power-led-bay15d-retrofit-car/923/2274/


Now that my NC700x is totalled and my new bike has an OEM LED tail light, I have no need for this. $12 shipped if anyone wants it, thats less than half of new price.

Only downside to running an LED on the NC700x is that you are technically violating the law by not having a white light illuminating the license plate. This wasn't a problem on my CBR250 because it had a separate license plate light. But on the NC700x they put a little clear window under the tail that shines white light down onto the license plate. But if you run a red LED (and you should use red if you use an LED) you won't be shining any white light on the license plate. My plan was to use some of those license plate bolts that are also white LEDs, but I never got around to it.

 

[rippin209]

Yea I've tried LEDs a few times in my various taillights but always ended up sending them back. But I found this $20 flashing LED to be as bright as a regular bulb. I like that it flashes both the brake and the tail, it's really attention-getting. I think I have a post on here somewhere showing the difference (perhaps I only did that for my CBR250...) between this bulb and a regular bulb.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...-high-power-led-bay15d-retrofit-car/923/2274/


Now that my NC700x is totalled and my new bike has an OEM LED tail light, I have no need for this. $12 shipped if anyone wants it, thats less than half of new price.

Only downside to running an LED on the NC700x is that you are technically violating the law by not having a white light illuminating the license plate. This wasn't a problem on my CBR250 because it had a separate license plate light. But on the NC700x they put a little clear window under the tail that shines white light down onto the license plate. But if you run a red LED (and you should use red if you use an LED) you won't be shining any white light on the license plate. My plan was to use some of those license plate bolts that are also white LEDs, but I never got around to it.

Even parked and running (so the lights are on) you couldn't tell the difference on my 2012 NC700X between the factory bulb and the Phillips LED (red color) I got, Amazon 2 pact for $20 shipped. If I knew about the bulb your showing I would have gotten that instead

 

[peergum]

Going up the Oregon coast to avoid the snow (and ice). Been working well so far. In a little town close to TIllamook tonight. Tomorrow will be the day I may end meeting the snow in Seattle or close...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[sumo]

I struck a deal and bought this for $450 CAD all in.

 

[potter0o]

Going up the Oregon coast to avoid the snow (and ice). Been working well so far. In a little town close to TIllamook tonight. Tomorrow will be the day I may end meeting the snow in Seattle or close...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wishing you a safe ride. Coldest day of the season so far at -4.5C right now.

 

[davidc83]

Yep, pin hole size leak between the tire and rim-took forever to find, even with soapy water. I will tackle the issue when spring arrives or long distance riding time nears...probably take tire off of bike, pop the bead, fine sandpaper the inside of the wheel where the tire mounts and then have tire re-mounted. Question for you guys who mount your own tires-what size air compressor do you use to re-mount the tires (the little 12 volts we carry don't have enough psi to pop the bead back in place). Looking to buy one after xmas... and another question: for wheels who have this issue, can we place tubes inside the tubeless tires instead of paying hundreds of dollars for a new wheel (my other bikes have tubes, so to me, no big deal), paging OCR or beemerphile to the white phone, is this possible?

 

[Deleted member 5383]

It's possible. but be aware tubes have problems too ; } ...I got sick of dealing with those, so I changed my WR250R over to Tubliss™ and run QuadBoss sealant in the tires for it now. Way less aggravation.

 

[davidc83]

It's possible. but be aware tubes have problems too ; } ...I got sick of dealing with those, so I changed my WR250R over to Tubliss™.

I know, but if these wheels have a tendency for paint to bubble or slightly rust, I had rather put a tube in than buy a new wheel-have you priced those things-ouch... I will do the sandpaper thing and do a remount and see if it cures the issue. If not, tube or switch to a Shinko 705 tir. I currently have the motion pro tires on the bike but I think I may put a Shinko 705 on the rear. I get good mileage on the motion pro but hate the tire wear patterns on the tire-it seems the motion pro rear always cups even though I check the tire pressure every time I ride... I think I want the 80/20 Shinko 705 (I think that is what it is, but not 100% sure).

 

[Deleted member 5383]

I know, but if these wheels have a tendency for paint to bubble or slightly rust, I had rather put a tube in than buy a new wheel-have you priced those things-ouch... I will do the sandpaper thing and do a remount and see if it cures the issue. If not, tube or switch to a Shinko 705 tir. I currently have the motion pro tires on the bike but I think I may put a Shinko 705 on the rear. I get good mileage on the motion pro but hate the tire wear patterns on the tire-it seems the motion pro rear always cups even though I check the tire pressure every time I ride... I think I want the 80/20 Shinko 705 (I think that is what it is, but not 100% sure).

I didn't care for the Shinko 705 grip, on wet pavement especially.

A good tire sealant would cure your ills, methinks, after smoothing the rim area. I took an extreme rim hit once and the sealant instantly bubbled a little out in that area and I was as good as gold.

 

[Neostorm]

Please report back with details after using them, I'm also interested in switching my turn signals to LED. Already did the headlight and taillight

I thought I had done the proper research but my front bulbs appear to be 1157. I requested a return label and will be ordering the 1157 version soon.

 

[rippin209]

I thought I had done the proper research but my front bulbs appear to be 1157. I requested a return label and will be ordering the 1157 version soon.

Yeah I just checked my previous orders and yes it's 1157. Hopefully you get the replacements quickly

 

[Hank]

I had previously installed an SAE lead into the frunk for a battery tender.
As I thought about other uses I changed the basic one out for one with a 7.5 fuse.
But the rubber panel between the battery and frunk would not close properly due to the size of the fuse.
So I put the original one back on today and now my Shoei Neotec fits in there again.

 

[670cc]

Yep, pin hole size leak between the tire and rim-took forever to find, even with soapy water. I will tackle the issue when spring arrives or long distance riding time nears...probably take tire off of bike, pop the bead, fine sandpaper the inside of the wheel where the tire mounts and then have tire re-mounted. Question for you guys who mount your own tires-what size air compressor do you use to re-mount the tires (the little 12 volts we carry don't have enough psi to pop the bead back in place). Looking to buy one after xmas... and another question: for wheels who have this issue, can we place tubes inside the tubeless tires instead of paying hundreds of dollars for a new wheel (my other bikes have tubes, so to me, no big deal), paging OCR or beemerphile to the white phone, is this possible?

I have had the rim leak, lightly sanded the area, reseated the bead with No-Mar tire lube, and even after a couple years have never had a rim leak again. You can even do this without completely removing the tire from the rim, but you do need to remove the wheel from the bike. Whenever I change tires I inspect and smooth up the rim as needed. I see no need to consider using a tube.

I pop beads back on with a simple 10 gallon portable air tank pumped to 125 psi. It even works with car and trailer tires. Having a little tire changing lube on the bead helps seal the air to build pressure and lets the tire bead slide up out of the rim well and seat itself.

 

[670cc]

I ordered the brightest white 1156 led bulbs I could find for the front turn signals. Hopefully they will meet my expectations.

I should have noticed in your post that the 1156 bulbs are incorrect. The fronts are 1157 dual filament bulbs. The rears are 1156. I intend to get "switchback" LED with white/amber colors for the fronts once I get my clear lenses ordered. I have them on my GL1800 and they are really nice. Bright white running lights and amber signals.

 

[rippin209]

I should have noticed that the 1156 bulbs are incorrect. The fronts are 1157 dual filament bulbs. The rears are 1156. I intend to get "switchback" LED with white/amber colors for the fronts once I get my clear lenses ordered. I have them on my GL1800 and they are really nice. Bright white running lights and amber signals.

Please post a link if possible those sounds perfect. And just for clarification the front turn signals use 1157 and the rear turn signal uses 1156? And where did you get your smoked or clear lenses for the turn signals?

 

[670cc]

Please post a link if possible those sounds perfect. And just for clarification the front turn signals use 1157 and the rear turn signal uses 1156? And where did you get your smoked or clear lenses for the turn signals?

Here's what I'm talking about:
[video=youtube_share;qS3AAFFGmoo]https://youtu.be/qS3AAFFGmoo[/video]

There have been prior discussions about the clear lenses from (I believe) a Honda CBR1000 (with more Rs maybe). See here: http://nc700-forum.com/forum/nc700-...king-clear-lenses.html?highlight=clear+lenses I haven't researched the best switchback LEDs yet but they're all over eBay and the Web. The ones I have in my GL1800 came as part of a kit. Also need to get an LED compatible flasher.

 

[rippin209]

Here's what I'm talking about:
[video=youtube_share;qS3AAFFGmoo]https://youtu.be/qS3AAFFGmoo[/video]

There have been prior discussions about the clear lenses from (I believe) a Honda CBR1000 (with more Rs maybe). See here: http://nc700-forum.com/forum/nc700-...king-clear-lenses.html?highlight=clear+lenses I haven't researched the best switchback LEDs yet but they're all over eBay and the Web. The ones I have in my GL1800 came as part of a kit. Also need to get an LED compatible flasher.

very cool. If you get a working finished setup let us know

 

[potter0o]

...Question for you guys who mount your own tires-what size air compressor do you use to re-mount the tires (the little 12 volts we carry don't have enough psi to pop the bead back in place). Looking to buy one after xmas...

I used the little slime pump to seat the bead on the PR4 front that I did. I took the valve out of the stem to help remove any flow restriction. I was able to seat the bead surprisingly easy. I was prepared to put a ratchet strap around the circumference if plan A didn't work but it never came to that.