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2015: What did you do to/with your NC700 today?

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Ordered the chain and sprockets as well as the brake pads. Will attempt to put them all on this coming weekend, may have to pull in some assistance for the first time.
Going to be winter weather again this weekend; I love global warming we had this past weekend. You will have to do this in the garage :) instead of the driveway. The sprocket/chain replacements are not that difficult. Remember to loosen the front sprocket bolt before loosening the rear wheel or breaking the chain. The regular brake pads are not difficult either (you got a service manual don't you? If not, I could loan you mine). I have no knowledge of that parking brake pad replacement though (I don't have the dct). I know with the DCT and ABS, you have a few more steps to the pad replacement than the non-dct... when you remove the sprocket from the rear wheel, put down cardboard or some type of cloth under the wheel so you don't scratch/damage the wheel when removing those sprocket bolts. Let me know if you need to borrow the manual.
 
Going to be winter weather again this weekend; I love global warming we had this past weekend. You will have to do this in the garage :) instead of the driveway. The sprocket/chain replacements are not that difficult. Remember to loosen the front sprocket bolt before loosening the rear wheel or breaking the chain. The regular brake pads are not difficult either (you got a service manual don't you? If not, I could loan you mine). I have no knowledge of that parking brake pad replacement though (I don't have the dct). I know with the DCT and ABS, you have a few more steps to the pad replacement than the non-dct... when you remove the sprocket from the rear wheel, put down cardboard or some type of cloth under the wheel so you don't scratch/damage the wheel when removing those sprocket bolts. Let me know if you need to borrow the manual.

The parking break pads are simple, they just come off, slap the new ones on, no extra steps. They are not linked or used in standard breaking. I will have the garage door closed and space heater on, trust me. Also, I do have the service manual, which I need to mark up for these projects. First step is to get some wrenches for the that rear axle.
 
Ordered the chain and sprockets as well as the brake pads. Will attempt to put them all on this coming weekend, may have to pull in some assistance for the first time.

Here's an idea that may or may not benefit you. For changing the rear sprocket, I would loosen the sprocket bolts while the wheel and chain are still on the bike. Have the bike on the sidestand in gear (no, wait, I forgot it's a DCT) or hold the brake on. Then when the wheel is off, lift the sprocket carrier out of the cush drive blocks and work with it off the wheel. The nuts will then be easy to spin off, and you won't be manhandling your wheel with the disk side down and risking damage. Likewise, you could do the final torque on the sprocket nuts when the wheel and chain are back on the bike.
 
I finally sprayed the bottom of my madstad with plastiDip. As everyone said, it fixes the light at the top of the screen and reflections.

Why did it take me so long???

The more important question is, "Why doesn't Madstad black out the bottom of the windshields?" Givi does.
 
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A buddy of mine runs a "biker" church. They have services on Saturday evening and ride on Sunday.

You mean they do oil changes and valve adjustments Saturday evening, then ride Sunday? :confused::)
 
Took off the Anakee 3 rear with 8145 miles on it. Might have been able to get another ~300 miles out of it, but with some holiday traveling coming up, didn't want to risk it.

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Same story on the old Conti Motion with 10,452 miles on it. Could've definitely gotten a few more miles out of it, but it had started wearing funny, causing a wobble at low speeds, and generally 'meh' handling.

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On with the Shinko 705!

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rear.jpg

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They certainly look the business. I don't do a ton of real off road, but I do see a good amount of dirt and gravel roads. I'm curious if an aggressive tire like this will make a noticeable difference on those types of roads without sacrificing too much on road handling and tire wear. They sure felt weird this morning coming into work! If I can get ~8000 out of them I think I'll be happy considering the price.

trey
 
well today I went through some floods under a bridge with water above my knees and lived to tell the tale .good ole 700x just keeps going through anything a Scottish winter can throw at it ,mind you I got soaked with the bow wave coming right up over the screen and up over my gloves and up my sleeves ! Lucky it was only a dip in the road and not a prolonged depth or I am sure it would have got in my air filter , Still the bikes never been so clean.
 
well today I went through some floods under a bridge with water above my knees and lived to tell the tale .good ole 700x just keeps going through anything a Scottish winter can throw at it ,mind you I got soaked with the bow wave coming right up over the screen and up over my gloves and up my sleeves ! Lucky it was only a dip in the road and not a prolonged depth or I am sure it would have got in my air filter , Still the bikes never been so clean.


Hahahaha Das X Up periscope!
 
On with the Shinko 705!

They certainly look the business. I don't do a ton of real off road, but I do see a good amount of dirt and gravel roads. I'm curious if an aggressive tire like this will make a noticeable difference on those types of roads without sacrificing too much on road handling and tire wear. They sure felt weird this morning coming into work! If I can get ~8000 out of them I think I'll be happy considering the price.

trey

How do they handle in the dry on pavement, compared to the more street oriented Anakee's or even the stock Bridgestones or Metzelers?

I got 15k out of my first Z8 rear, and more than that out of the front. But coming up on 30k miles I'll need to change again and the 705's are significantly cheaper than the Z8's.

And what size did you go with? 120/70 front and a 150 rear?
 
Installed some acerbis vision handguards and wired them up to the front marker lights so they go out on the side that is signaling. Put a switch on the negative to turn them off if necessary.

I also did a test fit of the Showkey seat mod. I am definitely going to try it out.
 
well today I went through some floods under a bridge with water above my knees and lived to tell the tale .good ole 700x just keeps going through anything a Scottish winter can throw at it ,mind you I got soaked with the bow wave coming right up over the screen and up over my gloves and up my sleeves ! Lucky it was only a dip in the road and not a prolonged depth or I am sure it would have got in my air filter , Still the bikes never been so clean.

Brave !

I would check behind the dust seals on the wheel bearings after that though. Perhaps you have thought of that already.
 
How do they handle in the dry on pavement, compared to the more street oriented Anakee's or even the stock Bridgestones or Metzelers?

I got 15k out of my first Z8 rear, and more than that out of the front. But coming up on 30k miles I'll need to change again and the 705's are significantly cheaper than the Z8's.

And what size did you go with? 120/70 front and a 150 rear?

Yep, those are the sizes I'm using.

So far so good, but I've got a grand total of 50 miles on them so far, I'm no expert. I know quite a few here have been running them a long time, and all reports seem to be that they stick well. That's my initial impression as well.

They're heavy, and the tread blocks seemed to take about 35 miles to wear in a bit and feel normal, but my confidence in them keeps growing. They're heavy enough to really feel different from street tires, probably the front is making the biggest impact there. They want to fall into a corner, but not quickly... side to side transition is slow, I suspect due to the weight. The first trip around the block I thought I made a mistake :eek: but I found myself looking forward to the commute this morning. They stick, you just have to muscle them around a little more than I'm used to.

Time will tell. Longevity and cost are my biggest wants. No more off pavement than I actually do, I can deal with a street tire if that means getting 10k+ miles out of it and the price is right -- I just have to slow down a bit when the pavement ends. The Anakee stuck really well and I liked it on pavement, but it didn't feel any better on dirt and gravel (do any 90/10 tires actually get you any benefit off pavement? I haven't found one), they cost the same as a PR4, and only gave me 8k miles instead of the 12k-ish I get from PR4s.

As cheap as the 705 is, if I can get ~8k out of it, and it makes an appreciable difference in the dirt, I'm 100% fine with that. If these burn up in 5k miles though, it's back to PR4s.

trey
 
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