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Trim clips - any place cheap or any substitutes ?

My memory may be fading but I would swear that I tried the 1/4" GM clips and they were a very tight fit on the NC. They made removal/replacement a much more challenging ordeal (especially the one in the bottom of the frunk). I thought we needed 6mm to fit the NC pieces. Someone correct me if you have actually used them (the 1/4" clips) without enlarging holes.
Thanks.
>Thom
 
Olythom said:
My memory may be fading but I would swear that I tried the 1/4" GM clips and they were a very tight fit on the NC. They made removal/replacement a much more challenging ordeal (especially the one in the bottom of the frunk). I thought we needed 6mm to fit the NC pieces. Someone correct me if you have actually used them (the 1/4" clips) without enlarging holes.
Thanks.
>Thom
Click to expand...

I will have them in a couple of days and will try them out in several of the easy to reach places.
My memory of the one at the bottom of the frunk is that it was hard to take out and put back in. I was new to the bike back then and since then have removed and left out that little door/cover. The book is still there in a Ziploc though.

I am not going to ream out holes to make them fit though. Nor will I pay 2-3 bucks each for one. I may just have to become some sort of thief.
 
Cool. Report back when you get yours. I could certainly use a few replacements on my bike and the price on those is much more reasonable.
>T
 
Alright doggonit!

I have them now.
From Amazon - Amazon.com: 25 Wheel Opening Retainers GM 21077123: Automotive

25 Wheel Opening Retainers GM 21077123

They are longer overall. I don't know if there are places where depth of insertion are an issue. If so I will swap.
They fit right in.
The head diameter is slightly larger. It still fit in the area provided for the one I tried.
They lock tightly. Maybe tighter than original.
They are harder to remove. You have to pry the "button" up as opposed to the Honda one that releases easily by pushing in the inside part.
But at $.32 US each instead of 100 times that I can say it is good.

Done.

Off to the next thing.
 
I wound up ordering both these TR 240 -Reg.or Bulk / GM.Push.Type.Ret Works.on.Honda VFR800's.as well - Aprox: 1/4" (6mm) Hole Size and 8 of the correct Honda ones from Bike Bandit after I ordered the incorrect size from Amazon. I would rather use the Honda ones as they work well when properly extracted. I got them from Bike Bandit much quicker than from Amazon which surprised me. I haven't received the ones from the Fastener Warehouse yet. I will have many spares!
 
Therapy said:
I will leave the plastic on the garage floor before I pay 2+ dollars for a trim clip.
Click to expand...

Just take care of the ones you have - open and close them properly - and they will last the life of the bike (minus the occasional one you lose). One place you DO NOT WANT any clips that are harder to install or remove is at the bottom of the fake air duct cavity (the ones that hold the top of the side shroud on).
 
Here are the two clips the Honda clip on the right and the TR240 on the left. The TR240 has worked every where I tried it even though it is a little longer. I find the Honda clip easier to operate but at 10 times the price.

 
Bit by the photobucket virus, I see... I'll have to read this thread later, but for now I'll just curse the trim clip in general -- and specifically the fragile practically self-imploding implementation Honda is using in a multitude of locations that would have been better served by almost anything else including bird nest saliva mixed with a black dye ; }

And that arcane body work that requires pulling practically everything including a rack just to get at the front of the bike -- gimme a dualsport/dirtbike any day! This is (probably) the last time I'll buy a bike that doesn't have a better approach.
 
The bodywork (I have a faired CTX) seems designed for easy installation on a bare bike going down the assembly line. It doesn't seem like Honda gave any thought to it ever having to be removed after the bike left the dealership. Removing the plastic on the CTX was very traumatic ("how do these fasteners I've never seen before work, where is the hidden fastener/molded-in clip that isn't letting things release, where did the broken-off very tiny little hook piece go?), and I'm planning on leaving it off and doing something that is more conducive to ease of service.
 
Likewise -- or at least use trim clips of the same diameter that I've seen in automotive parts stores that are a lot simpler. Those are stronger and simpler, probably designed for "use once, discard, and replace" operations often favored by auto body specialists. Also ready to heap ridicule on engineering that for smallish panels that have three different machinescrew/bolt head types for no good reason ; }
 
I'll voice my opinion in favor of the Honda fasteners.

No way would I want the one time use automotive fasteners on the motorcycle. I hate those things.

Typical scheduled maintenance done by the owner would require a just few fasteners be removed once every 12,000 miles to access the air filter. That's about it for panel removal for planned maintenance. It's only when we need to do body repairs or modify the bike that more fasteners require removal.

I agree that simpler fastening methods, such as on dirt bikes, would be much better. (I'd even like to see the panel color all the way through the plastic instead of being painted.) But, I've removed the panels many, many times and have yet to lose or break a clip fastener.
 
I have to grudgingly admit that there was at least one thing awesome about my otherwise much hated F800ST, and that was the ease of bodywork re/re. It all came off and went back on with a joyful and satisfying selection of nice looking torx button head stainless steel bolts. No fuss, no muss, no stupid hidden tabs that break, and require terrifying bending of fragile plastic panels.

I don't think I've ever seen a bike with so many different ways to hide nuts and bolts, and make them a pain to deal with as the NCX...


I would love to meet up with the designer/committee that thought the NCX bodywork attachment method was a good thing, and give them a serious talking to...
 
Most [many?] of the automotive ones can be re-used too. It's just that mechanics and autobody guys tend to rip 'em out and replace when it's faster to do it that way, since the pack of fasteners is so cheap anyway. Last time I checked anyway.

Actually, some of them don't even replace all of them if they can get away with it ; }
 
L.B.S. said:
. . . and require terrifying bending of fragile plastic panels.
Click to expand...

That was my experience. I pulled with what seemed much top high of pressure and things still wouldn't come loose even though I figured they were about to break. Then "pop" and it was off, but the next panel might also pop but then break one of those little 3-4 mm molded-on hooks.

Saving weight is nice, I'm all for it. But I've had race bikes where you could have a full fairing off the bike without damage in under a minute.

A related somewhat amusing anecdote about Honda: a friend was a service/parts manager at a big Honda dealership in the 80s/90s. He told me that there was one model (CB750/900 IIRC) that for each of three years had a new petcock that wouldn't interchange with the previous year. Honda gets carried away some times, when they should take a page from Hodaka's book and make things that interchange forwards/backwards for multiple years because there's no good reason to not do that and make things hard on the customer/dealer.
 
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