Some thoughts (possibly bad thoughts)

[wildeone]

Everytime you refer to the Tiger 800 engine as torqueless it makes you look very much like you don't know what you are talking about.

I could say the same about you but never mind. Don't show me graphs, go ride tiger slow offroad. I rode both bikes side by side and I won't change my opinion.
That "smooth, creamy torque" as you correctly described it's just too creamy, good for highway though.
I spend now 80% offroad and tiger 800 XC is out of the question, what could you expect from triple engine offroad anyway
but if you like it, that's all what matter isn't ?

 

[dduelin]

Rally Raid has said they will be looking at the NC this fall.
Per Nitron shocks the CB and NC have the same size rear shock so the RR rear should transfer with no problem. The forks are the same basic design so the RR improvements should transfer with little or no modification by them.

On my NC I did the RaceTech Gold valves keep the stock springs. Cost ~$150. Made a huge difference with the sharp bumps. It also exposed the limits of the rear shock. Changed the rear for the Nitron and now she rides great. Also made the handling sharper which took a bit to get used to. That part surprised me that the handling would change so much with a rear shock change. Part of that may be from less sag in the rear since the spring is now sized for my weight.

After fettling the forks for damping and sag I was able to add preload to get the sag of the shock correct for my light weight. The NC's handling after settling the front suspension for me was great. Quick and agile and I wanted to do the shock next. I never got around to replacing the rear shock...it was next on my list but I sold it beforehand.

 

[Deleted member 1183]

I have taken on board everything that has been said. I am particularly grateful that folks have taken the time to respond. I have looked at forums. I have looked at reviews. At the end of the day I am left with the impression that the CBX suspension/handling is similar to the NC in almost every way, except for the one aspect that I experience, the tendency of the NC to push its front end occasionally. That is still bugging me and I don't believe the CBX does that.

 

[Cigar Mike]

I have taken on board everything that has been said. I am particularly grateful that folks have taken the time to respond. I have looked at forums. I have looked at reviews. At the end of the day I am left with the impression that the CBX suspension/handling is similar to the NC in almost every way, except for the one aspect that I experience, the tendency of the NC to push its front end occasionally. That is still bugging me and I don't believe the CBX does that.

Just raise the forks in the triple clamps. The head angle or rake is not steep. If you decrease rake you reduce the trail it will help prevent the push. If it pushes when slowing by braking or letting off the throttle, you can bump up the preload on the rear which in affect decreases rake and trail in those circumstances. Make minor adjustments. If you go to far it reduces straight line stability. The NC has a slow geometry compared to most sport bikes.

 

[kebrider]

Interesting thread. I completely agree with the fact the stock suspension on the NC precludes fast sport riding, bumpy or smooth. The Cogent Dynamics DDC kit I installed in my NC with the Cognt supplied Ohlins fork springs transformed the front end of the NC and the Cogent Dynamics Moab shock raised the rear and added the chassis control necessary to make the NC a true sport bike in the mountains. I did drop the front forks 10mm to further quicken steering and the net effect is the NC is an absolute blast to ride.

My NC generates more conversations than any bike I have ever owned, usually after someone has seen it go by on roads around the Deals Gap area. It will never be the fastest but it sure is fast and sure-footed enough to put a smile on my face every time I ride it. This picture has been posted about a 1,000 times but it demonstrates what an NC can do without suspension mods, all that was done was dropping the forks at this point. Now that ground clearance, chassis control, and most importantly front end feel, has improved the bike can do the same turn 10 to 15 mph faster without dragging hard parts. I am in year 2 of ownership and I am still blow away by how much fun I have enjoying the relaxed thrills this bike provides.

The blurred serenity I experience as I glide through the mountain forests is addictive.

 

[Deleted member 1183]

I did drop the front forks 10mm to further quicken steering and the net effect is the NC is an absolute blast to ride.

Ok. I will try that. Thanks for the suggestion also to Cigar Mike. You both use different terminology but I assume you achieve the same end result. I should have thought of that but I didn't. If that works I will then have another look at modifying the suspension.

That is what these forums are for.

 

[johnakay]

I'll try that to griff.
thanks for the tip even though it wasn't intended for me.

 

[Cigar Mike]

Remember that what works to improve steering on pavement my cause some headshake on loose dirt surfaces. When they decreased rake or steering head angle on dirt bikes it created the market for steering dampers. The offset front axle helped reduce the affect by increasing trail with the steeper head angle. The design of the NC provides a very stable bike for straight line speed. For those that use the NC for a lot of dirt also, there is a trade off. Experiment until you find what works best for how and where you ride. It does take some time and effort to find what works just right for you.

 

[Deleted member 1183]

I went out with the intention of dropping the forks today but was unable to do so as there is no centrestand on the bike, and using my current paddock stand with a jack under the motor it is not stable enough. I will make other arrangements shortly and get this sorted.

What I did do was load up the shock spring preload to almost max. I would have put it up all the way but skinned knuckles became a problem. This action will also have the affect of making the rear suspension a little more comfortable as it will allow the shock to function more efficiently through its stroke. To anyone carrying a pillion on this bike I would suggest putting the spring preload up to max as a matter of course. It is a pity that Honda did not see fit to make spring preload adjustment as easy as it is on the CBX.

 

[Therapy]

I went out with the intention of dropping the forks today but was unable to do so as there is no centrestand on the bike, and using my current paddock stand with a jack under the motor it is not stable enough. I will make other arrangements shortly and get this sorted.

What I did do was load up the shock spring preload to almost max. I would have put it up all the way but skinned knuckles became a problem. This action will also have the affect of making the rear suspension a little more comfortable as it will allow the shock to function more efficiently through its stroke. To anyone carrying a pillion on this bike I would suggest putting the spring preload up to max as a matter of course. It is a pity that Honda did not see fit to make spring preload adjustment as easy as it is on the CBX.

There is a preload adjustment on the NC?

 

[pismocycleguy]

There is a preload adjustment on the NC?

Yes, there is an adjustable collar on the rear shock, which can increase or decrease the preload. But it is not really handy to utilize.

 

[Deleted member 1183]

Yes, there is an adjustable collar on the rear shock, which can increase or decrease the preload. But it is not really handy to utilize.

I am afraid that is an understatement. Imho it is extremely awkward to use

 

[dduelin]

There is a preload adjustment on the NC?

The preload we are talking about is a set of threaded collars on top of the shock spring. The collars turn on the threaded part of the shock body. I had a C spanner that would fit but I could not get a purchase on the collars so I used a drift and a blunt straight blade screwdriver to tap, tap, tap on the collars to move them. It's easy to bung up the threads on the shock - go slow. Tap the upper one loose as it locks the lower one from moving, then tap the lower one clockwise to compress the spring more. Tighten the upper one down against the lower one to lock in place.

 

[kharli]

I use my plumbing adjustable grips ,you cant get to them `properly` but they turn so easily it doesn't seem to be a problem ,ive given up adjusting them though and just have them set assuming a pillion and luggage ,the extra preload doesn't seem to be a problem solo riding

 

[Deleted member 1183]

I was off out on the NC today. This time I did not return home early

I am satisfied from the single adjustment I made yesterday (Maxed the spring preload) that the bike responds well to suspension adjustments. The difference in todays ride was not big, but significant enough to add to my confidence. I had no front end pushes, but I could still have been a little nervous of the possibility after the previous days ride. The rear of the bike was a little higher and slightly more comfortable as expected. I have yet to drop the forks.

I have accordingly decided to change my mind on suspension spend vis a vis bike value. As my Wife suggested the bike is worth nothing if it is too uncomfortable to ride. While I did still take a bit of a hammering again today on some of the rougher roads at speed, I nonetheless came home with a smile on face and my mind made up. The NC stays. End of bad thoughts

Incidentally I am currently running tyre pressures of 36 F and 36/37 rear on the road solo. I am thinking of reducing a little further to 34/34.

 

[Therapy]

Yes, there is an adjustable collar on the rear shock, which can increase or decrease the preload. But it is not really handy to utilize.

The preload we are talking about is a set of threaded collars on top of the shock spring. The collars turn on the threaded part of the shock body. I had a C spanner that would fit but I could not get a purchase on the collars so I used a drift and a blunt straight blade screwdriver to tap, tap, tap on the collars to move them. It's easy to bung up the threads on the shock - go slow. Tap the upper one loose as it locks the lower one from moving, then tap the lower one clockwise to compress the spring more. Tighten the upper one down against the lower one to lock in place.

Thanks guys.

Now...........what sort of junk has to be removed to get to it? I guess I could look at the manual but I might have to move my comfy chair to get to it.
Sorry for the thread drift. I will do a search.

 

[johnakay]

well thats good news Griff.

 

[Deleted member 1183]

I just used a long punch to dislodge the lockring. I then used a C spanner (with difficulty) to tighten down the adjuster ring in small increments. The rings are too thin to easily engage the C spanner, but with patience it can be done. I used the C spanner again to tighten the lockring. Ideally two C spanners should be used but there is not enough space with the shock in place. Depending on what shock I replace the rear item with, I will probably go with a remote preloader also.

 

[Deleted member 1183]

well thats good news Griff.

Yes John. As you travel two up a lot, I believe it will benefit you to fully preload the spring on the shock. I felt the benefits today. I am twelve and a half stone and never carry a pillion on this bike.

 

[Therapy]

My sons are both over 220lbs.

I guess we should raise the preload for them.

They have no experience on bikes before these so they would not know better or worse handling.