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So what did you do TO your NC700 today.

Should this thread be made a Sticky?

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Dropped my bike for the first time awhile back- in the garage - onto my car. No car damage but broke the rear turn signal bracket off. Taped it up but I finally got around to replacing it today - no problem but glad I have the maintenance manual for the description of the 4 different types of connectors involved. Anybody know if there is a" tidy tail" kit for the NC? I had just about the entire tail off to get at the bolt on the turn signal body so see that it would be easy to replace it.
 
Dropped my bike for the first time awhile back- in the garage - onto my car. No car damage but broke the rear turn signal bracket off. Taped it up but I finally got around to replacing it today - no problem but glad I have the maintenance manual for the description of the 4 different types of connectors involved. Anybody know if there is a" tidy tail" kit for the NC? I had just about the entire tail off to get at the bolt on the turn signal body so see that it would be easy to replace it.

Check out this link

http://nc700-forum.com/forum/nc700-mods/2771-jmv-concepts-tail-tidy-kit-rear-hugger.html
 
I was rummaging around the garage and found a pair of HVMP Heavy bar ends. I have used them on various bikes in the past. (Such as a KLR650 and Versys 650)
So I decided to mount them on my NC700X just as an experiment.
I know a lot of the members on this Forum have complained about vibrations coming through the handle bars. I never noticed, or was never bothered by any vibrations.
The HVMP Heavy bar ends weigh 14.2 oz (402.5 gm) each. They are really quite a bit heavier than the stock units.
And they really quell any vibrations that reach the handle bars.
I'm posting a couple of photos, in case any "sensitive hands" members are interested.
View attachment 13392View attachment 13393View attachment 13394

What BIG balls of steel you've got there! :p


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well traded in the nc
11 months put 2535 miles on it.
lost 1100 on the trade ,, so was happy to get that much back on it.
new ride is Honda st
 
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43 cents per mile, could be worse, but not very economical a ride, even with 65 mpg.
St is a nice ride.
Buy new then sell young and depreciation is a killer. My Honda truck has 9 years and 290,000 miles on it so depreciation on it is down to 1.1 cents per mile ignoring any possible sale value. Dealer has another customer with 426,000 miles on one so my depreciation per mile can still go way down. Even at 18 mpg the overall cost per mile isn't bad.
 
Buy new then sell young and depreciation is a killer. My Honda truck has 9 years and 290,000 miles on it so depreciation on it is down to 1.1 cents per mile ignoring any possible sale value. Dealer has another customer with 426,000 miles on one so my depreciation per mile can still go way down. Even at 18 mpg the overall cost per mile isn't bad.

I run a fleet of trucks and get a little OCD about cost per mile.
 
All I did with my NC700XD (DCT) this morning was ride it.

However I installed the following items in the previous weeks.

Honda - Center Stand, Light Bar, Heated Grips, Heated Grips Attachment Kit, Sub Harness, Relay Kit, 12V Accessory Socket, Fairing Air Deflectors, Lower Wind Deflectors, Front Cowl Panel, Rear Trunk, Rear Rack Carrier, and Mounting Kit.

Aftermarket - Barkbusters VPS Hand Guards, Cee Bailey Extended Windshield, BRUUDT Radiator Guard, Skidmarx Wheelhugger, Pyramid Front Fender Extender, Vision X Solstice LED Pods, Piaa Sport Horn, PIAA Light Bar Mounts, and Throttle Rocker II.

IMG_2388.jpg

Sorry this is not a recent photo, it was taken about 2 weeks ago. I installed the Vision X LED Pods and PIAA Sport Horn later on that day this picture was taken.
 
well traded-in the nc
11 months put 2535 miles on it.
lost 1100 on the trade ,, so was happy to get that much back on it.
new ride is Honda st

Sorry to hear about trading in the NC... :(

Congrats on the ST though. I have both of these bikes at this time and love them both. I had my ST for 7 years now. Be advise that the Alternator will "Go Out" at about 60k to 65k miles, that's a fact. My went out at about 63k, that was about $1,300 repair. This is not a job you want to tackle yourself. It requires tearing the entire top of the engine apart and removing the throttle bodies going through the area beneath the fuel tank. The labor was only $350, while the alternator was the bulk of that amount.
 
Put on the Knight Design lowering footpegs, got the gear shift lever adjusted, now can someone tell me how to adjust the brake lever.

At the back of the rear brake foot lever is the actuation rod going into the master cylinder. 2 nuts on the rod. 1 top and 1 bottom. The bottom nut is a jamb nut and the top one adjusts. . After adjusting the lever you need to adjust the rear brake switch. It is a black thingy next to the master cylinder and has a spring attaching it to the brake lever. It has an adjustment nut/wheel on it. I personally like a touch of free play before the light comes on so it doesn’t flash if I just bump it.
 
Shovelled it out...

We had a bit of a snow storm here yesterday... so I shovelled my NC out of a snowbank
 

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I put on some grip puppies.a riding buddy didn't like them and gave them to me.what a big difference. they make the grips a little bigger which is better now.after 30 miles my hands did not hurt and my left arm didn't get tired like it usually does .they came off his concoirs which must be a little bigger grips.no water or soap needed ,just a little twisting .I should have put these on a long time ago.
 
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