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Rounded head on oil plug bolt - my own doing :(

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iaRider

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So the dealer wasn't going to be able to get me in for my 600 mile service until almost June and I already have 660 miles on the bike. I figured since it's already had the oil in there for 3 years from the factory and I want to keep riding, I should do the oil myself and just let them show me how to check the valves in another few hundred miles when they get me in. So I went to take the drain plug out with a 12mm socket and after torquing (quite hard) on it, I thought it had broken free. But alas, when I took the socket off, all the corners were rounded on the plug. I've ordered a replacement (mercifully only $3) but is there any hope of me getting this off myself? And has anyone else had this problem??

EDIT: Also how long is "safe" for the engine to ride past the 600 mile mark to avoid doing any engine damage from an "extended" break in?
 
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Just in case you were using a 12 point socket, my advice for the future would be to always use 6 point sockets, never 12 point. Like a bozo I grabbed a 12 point box wrench last weekend and it rounded off my dirt bike axle nut. I said at that point, never use a 12 point again.

Don't get excited about missing the 600 mile mark. Whether it's 600, 1000, 4000, miles or whatever is certainly not going to kill that engine.

As for getting the plug off, you might try vice grips or better yet a little pipe wrench.
 
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670cc said:
As for getting the plug off, you might try vice grips or better yet a little pipe wrench.
Click to expand...

Pipe wrench, that's genius! It's made for round materials and since the bolt is messed up anyway (and a new one is in the mail), you won't care how it looks after the wrench chews it up. Excellent advice. That one would have taken me a while.
 
6 point sockets!

TA_BigLebowski.jpg
 
I seem to recall the drain bolt was in a place without too much extra space around it such as needed with a pipe wrench.

ps. I just had to run out to the garage to get something so I looked at the drain bolt location on my NC700X. No way will a pipe wrench, even a small one, fit into that space. One of the problems with using a pipe wrench or Vise-Grips is that you mutilate the head so from then on you have to use the same tool to get it off. If you use those, plan on buying a new drain plug, and also a 6-point socket.
 
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The oil plug is pretty close to the exhaust as I recall... I recall mostly because I burned myself at least once... and damaged the bolt at least once trying not to burn myself...

My plug still comes out with a 6 point socket... but if you are going to have to play with vice grips and adjustable wrenches it might be worth changing the oil while the exhaust is cold.

I try to change the oil when it's hot, flows out of the engine better, and any junk in the oil is more likely to be suspended there instead of on the bottom of the oil pan... but a hot exhaust pipe is something that can make life difficult... especially when you are trying to get a needle nose vice grips on a round bolt...
 
670- Yes, like an idiot, this was done with a 12 point because I didn't have a 6 point in my set...so I went out to buy one last night. I managed to crack it with the 6 point, but I'm awaiting my replacement drain bolt and crush washer before I do my oil change. Even though I figured it likely will not hurt the engine, I've been riding my Honda Elite 110 around town instead for a little while. haha :cool:

anglachel - Yes, the oil is definitely close to the exhaust. I wrapped it in towel after I let it cool for 10 minutes but still managed to hit the one uncovered piece of exhaust and had an instant blister.

Everyone - Thanks for the solid advice! I am pretty pumped to be heading into prime riding season with 8k worry free miles!
 
I just figured I'd share my ingenious method for getting the oil filter off from my first oil change. (I had a plastic filter socket that fit, but I stripped the plastic in the socket...so much fun. hahaha)

IMG_20150518_200540.jpg
 
You're not having much luck with tools lately are you? That's an often used method for removing stubborn oil filters. I would caution you though that it's not equally good to use that same method for the re-install of the new filter. ;)
 
Oh! So that explains the trail of oil I'm leaving... :cool:

I have never had so many things conspire against me when trying to do one simple oil change. Haha
 
I have several different brands and sizes of cartridge oil filter remover tools. But on my last three new bikes, the initial oil filter removal was a *****. Broke some filter tools and stripped other filter tools. Ended up squeezing and poking a hole to strong arm the filter off the bike. They must have super strong assembly line workers in all of these foreign motorcycle brands workforce! At least after the first oil filter change, the subsequent filter changes are a piece of cake!
 
Honda has a "Filter Kit" for the NC (& other bikes) that has the filter & the proper Wrench/Tool to remove & reinstall the filter!!

Kit Part Number: 15010-MCE-H51

The 12mm Drain Bolt Crush Washer part number: 94109-12000
 
It's kind of comforting to know that others have had the same troubles. I'm trying to do my first DIY oil change, though not the first on the bike, and it's not going well. And I haven't even tried to get the filter off yet! I found it difficult to get the socket wrench onto the bolt, then realised that it wasn't on properly and was staring to round the bolt. Found this forum entry and have been looking for a six point socket. It seems they are very difficult to find in Melbourne!
So today I'm having another crack at it with a 12mm spanner. Sadly, the spanner moved but the bolt didn't.
Does it really need to be so hard to change the oil?
 
Harvey said:
It's kind of comforting to know that others have had the same troubles. I'm trying to do my first DIY oil change, though not the first on the bike, and it's not going well. And I haven't even tried to get the filter off yet! I found it difficult to get the socket wrench onto the bolt, then realised that it wasn't on properly and was staring to round the bolt. Found this forum entry and have been looking for a six point socket. It seems they are very difficult to find in Melbourne!
So today I'm having another crack at it with a 12mm spanner. Sadly, the spanner moved but the bolt didn't.
Does it really need to be so hard to change the oil?
Click to expand...
The last person who changed the oil and filter on your bike must have been a "little over-hyped" and then over tightened the oil drain plug. My oil drain plug & filter were over torqued from the factory. I was able to remove the plug without a problem but I had to destroy the oil filter to get it off the engine. You may need to get an oil filter remover tool if you find the filter over tightened.
Make sure you are not turning the oil drain plug in the wrong direction when trying to remove it. Remember, "righty tightly, lefty loosely". Seems simple but turning the bolt the wrong way has caused a lot of problems for people over the years. :p
And when reinstalling the drain plug, (better get a new one), and the oil filter, take it easy when tightening them. You do not want a repeat performance. :rolleyes:
 
I had to buy a 12 pt socket for my Acura oil change yesterday and was not happy at all about it (all they had in 17mm). I don't get it. Socket wrenches spin all the way around. It's not hard to get it on a bolt/nut. I really don't get why 12-pt sockets even exist. :mad:

That said, I have recently been inducted into the Knipex wrench pliers club. Glorious. But can't use them on a torque wrench.
 
They have twelve point bolts, mostly on tractors but there on other things as well, not as common as the sockets and wrenches that's for sure
 
Well, I had to take the bike to a workshop, and once he got the bolt loose we just went ahead and did the whole change there. So it cost more than I had hoped, but I should be right to do it myself in 5,000 kms. I hope.
 
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