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replace brake light bulb

StratTuner

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The service manual (page 2-9) says to remove the bolt (step 1) to get the assembly off so you can change the bulb.

Turning that nut cause it to just spin... it doesn't come off?

Is it possible to remove the brake light cover so that I can replace the bulb?

If so, how is that done?
 
there are three obvious silver bolts on the back of the tail light (inside where the tire is), and then there are two black HEX had bolt next to it.
I didn't see those.... work continues.
 
The service manual (page 2-9) says to remove the bolt (step 1) to get the assembly off so you can change the bulb.

Turning that nut cause it to just spin... it doesn't come off?

Is it possible to remove the brake light cover so that I can replace the bulb?

If so, how is that done?

Are we talking about the phillips head screw above the rear tire? The one that allows the panel to hinge down?

It's a screw threaded into plastic, so the plastic threads may have stripped out. Get a tack remover or something similar to help gently pry down on the screw head (gently!) while at the same time undoing the screw.
 
work stops.... that last round headed phillips bolt won't budge! Must've been put on by the same ape that puts on oil filters.

gee... hope I never have to change the brake light.
 
what's a tack remover? presumably a tool that removed thumb tacks?

That bolt (screw.. whatever it is) hasn't been off since a japanese tech put it on in 2012. I've squirted it with WD40, but still won't budge.
When the time comes that I really do have to replace the tail light bulb, I'll probably use a 1/4" drill bit and drill down through the bolt and into whatever is under it.
I'll worry about how to secure it after that.
Frustrated.... and now beaten.
 
Ya, tack remover is for what it sounds like, a small screw driver-like shaped tool with a slightly bent tip, that has a V shaped notch that you slide beneath the head of whatever tack/staple/nail/whatever you are trying to pry out.

With a fastener going into stripped threads, applying a gentle pull outwards while undoing, can do the trick.

Now you say "won't budge" Do you mean it still is just spinning without removal, or physically won't turn, like the screwdriver is slipping on the head of the screw?

Do you have needle nose pliers or vice grips by any chance? Sometimes you can get a hold of a screw head and pull while turning counter clockwise, too.

I wouldn't go near the thing with a drill. That screw just goes into a small plastic stub of material on the inside.
 
Well, here is proof that it will come off. Open the fender well flap. Disconnect the three harness plugs. Remove the two upward facing socket screws and the "Phillips" screw that is at about a 45 degree angle. Judging by the deformation of the Phillips cross, it looks like I must have had to put some effort on it. It has been a couple of years since I removed it and I don't remember.

Make sure that your screwdriver fits properly. I expect that it is really a JIS and you should use the proper driver.

Photo012 copy.jpgPhoto013 copy.jpgPhoto014 copy.jpg
 
I'm just disgusted. I'll get over it. I'll have to ask my mechanic to try and get that one out....though I don't know what engineering magic he'll use for that.
 
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I tried my own battery powered screw driver, but it's not up to the task either.
Thanks for all the help, gentlemen.

Now on to another post and a flashing light mystery.
 
When you come back let us know exactly which screw/bolt you are talking about. There are several associated with the tail light. I too tried the bolts I could see and then realized there were others I could not see without a flashlight. Doohhh!

Also. If you loosened one of the wrong ones first it is now loose. You have to take the assembly off in order to tighten it up. Sorry.
 
It is JIS and the little screwdriver that came with the bike just didn't do it for me. I had to buy the bit online and put it on a big handled driver. That screw was in there like a tick.


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It is JIS and the little screwdriver that came with the bike just didn't do it for me. I had to buy the bit online and put it on a big handled driver. That screw was in there like a tick.
I tried taking mine apart also. Can't remember why, probably because I like to know how things come apart (and back together). I also got frustrated with stuck screws or nuts or something. Haven't had a light out yet -2012 also. I'll figure it out when the time comes....
 
meant to say don't fully remove any of the three fasteners until there all loose or you can put so much twist force on you will snap the plastic nut container thingies
 
Got a set of the Vessel's too. Such a big difference in fit, IMHO probably the finest screw driver made.

I agree for a JIS driver they are very good. Anyone working on a Japanese motorcycle needs a good set of JIS drivers and the Vessels are my favorite. A JIS driver works better on Phillips screws than a Phillips driver works on JIS screws, but JIS drivers are for JIS screws. It is important to know what type of fastener it is and have a driver that matches it. The world is full of standard Phillips fasteners. Sometimes an oddball comes along. The screws holding the domes on the Bing carburetors on BMWs are Pozidriv screws. More of these have been ruined by Phillips drivers than can be imagined. Many people change them out for cute little countersunk Allens when all they needed was the correct driver.

I prefer individual handled drivers for the feel, but bit drivers are good to have as well. If a fastener is particularly difficult you can chuck a hex bit into a 1/4" ratchet or battery impact driver and give it some torque. Some of the finer individual drivers have a hex form near the handle that you can use a combination wrench on or a hole through the handle into which you can insert a cross-arm.

(I'll throw in this unrelated tip for free... The hex head bolts that hold much of the bodywork on the NC are especially shallow. A key to removal without damage is to use a flat tip Allen and NOT a ball tip. A ball tip is fine for running it in or out, but the initial release and final torquing should be done with a flat hex.)
 
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Whatever a Jis driver may be. ... time to ask mr. Google.

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I had a hell of a time trying to not pay super high prices for the JIS stuff I could find.
I ended up here
MOSS MOTORS, LTD.
440 RUTHERFORD STREET
GOLETA, CA 93117

MG, Triumph, Austin-Healey, Jaguar, Classic British Car Restoration Parts & Accessories - Moss Motors, Ltd.

The search is not at all good.
I finally clicked on the Miata (on the left) to get here - MossMiata.com - Parts & Accessories for Your Mazda Miata

I just bought the bits. I just can't spring for the sets of screwdrivers. Sheesh!
 
JIS screwdrivers are "the bomb!" I wish I had known about them when I started wrenching on motorcycles over 30 years ago! My impact driver has seen a lot of use over the years due to stripped out screws. Now you can even get JIS bits to put in your impact driver to increase it's effectiveness.

The last set I bought (a precision JIS screwdriver set) was from a vendor on ebay, so search there for whatever you're looking for. Other sources I've used are:
Screwdriver Sets | Screwdrivers | Hand Tools | VESSEL TOOLS
jis
 
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