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Initial Service cost

Xcellor8 said:
$60 sounds much more reasonable, even if that is +parts. The techs need to make a living but I just don't see more than 1 hour or so for the 600 mile service. Change oil+filter, clean, lube, adjust chain and a few misc fluid and mechanical inspections. Am I missing anything?
Click to expand...


Hi,
Actually I also wants cheap maintenance bills....I actually don't want to pay the s$60 cause I can do the checks and oil change myself and probably save half the cost.
I was only lamenting that it doesnt pay to be a mechanic.
Also, the 60 doesn't go to the mechanic alone...
 
Went to the local dealer where I got the bike for my 600mile service last week when I had 900miles on the bike and they quoted my $120, that's $80 for an hour and $40 parts for the oil change. They even told me it's just and oil change and they go over and check their set up basically making sure everything is adjusted right. They also mentioned it was fine if I went over the 600miles if the bike feels fine and have plenty of oil. Which it does and I do. Brought that up because they wouldn't have gotten the bike back to me until this coming Wed. due to being down to one mechanic for Thur, Fri and Sat. they are closed on Sun. Mon. so she said if I want to ride it just bring it by on Tuesday, going over on the miles a bit is no problem.
 
Why do we order one? We've got many experts and helpful friends here on this forum....
:p

And it is way more fun doing things this way via the friendlies here...
 
Thanks Rob! ;)


Since I finally now actually own an NC700 (heh,heh) I've since discovered it's written in at the back of the Owner's Manual: "...For Repair manual, call Helm at this number..."


Wheeeee
:D
 
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Honda mechanic told me manual allows 6/10th of a hour for first service which includes oil and filter.
It came out to $85 which included $42 for oil and filter.I reckon it all depends how much the hourly rate
is.
 
Hello,

I am also in Illinois, USA. I was quoted $225 by Honda dealer (3 miles away from my home). I also asked about the possibility to slightly adjust the rear mono shock. Mechanic said it would run about $125, he also said "oh, you HAVE to remove it to adjust it" I said seriously, I don't think you have to, and he said "Yeah, you do. I just did one last week" Oh well.

Used Bike shop by work quoted me $150 to $175 for initial 600 service (40 miles away from home). Much better price! Also much better costumer service. Guy even offered to adjust the chain tomorrow without the need for appointment because I told him I think its making a weird raspy noisy.

Finally, Honda dealer (35 miles away) where I got the bike, said $76.40 plus oil and filter. They also have great service that is why I got the bike from them. They also offered to adjust the rear shock, for free.

I guess prices really vary, what I do not appreciate is when SOME mechanics lie to your face and think you have no common sense.
 
I did not do the 8K service myself because it involves a valve check.

I did the the 600 service myself, and I'm no mechanic. I recommend doing the oil change yourself.
There are lots of people on this forum who would help you.
 
TonySilver said:
I also asked about the possibility to slightly adjust the rear mono shock. Mechanic said it would run about $125, he also said "oh, you HAVE to remove it to adjust it" I said seriously, I don't think you have to, and he said "Yeah, you do. I just did one last week"
Click to expand...

They also offered to adjust the rear shock, for free.

I guess prices really vary, what I do not appreciate is when SOME mechanics lie to your face and think you have no common sense.
Click to expand...


It might not be as black and white as you suggest. The Owners Manual does not mention that the rear shock is adjustable. The Service Manual does not mention that the rear shock is adjustable. Under troubleshooting for a soft rear suspension the Service Manual says "weak spring" rather than "adjust preload". The Common Service Manual gives a procedure for adjusting the preload on a "typical" shock absorber, but it warns that you should not adjust the spring to a shorter dimension than the specified minimum or there is a danger of coil bind which could cause the spring keeper to fail and the shock to collapse. The Common Service Manual said to refer to the model-specific Service Manual for the specified minimum length. The model-specific Service Manual does not give the specified minimum length.

So, it is possible that the first dealer is only being more careful and is removing the shock so he can clean the threads and compress the spring with a spring compressor before adjusting the keeper. That would remove any risk of damaging the threads if the mechanism was not intended as a running adjustment. The dealer doing it for free is surely just going to loosen the locking ring and give it a good hard crank. The threads will surely be dirty. It will probably work. It may not. He might adjust it too far and risk coil binding. He may not.

But hey, you can't beat his price, huh?
 
Beemerphile said:
It might not be as black and white as you suggest. The Owners Manual does not mention that the rear shock is adjustable. The Service Manual does not mention that the rear shock is adjustable. Under troubleshooting for a soft rear suspension the Service Manual says "weak spring" rather than "adjust preload". The Common Service Manual gives a procedure for adjusting the preload on a "typical" shock absorber, but it warns that you should not adjust the spring to a shorter dimension than the specified minimum or there is a danger of coil bind which could cause the spring keeper to fail and the shock to collapse. The Common Service Manual said to refer to the model-specific Service Manual for the specified minimum length. The model-specific Service Manual does not give the specified minimum length.

So, it is possible that the first dealer is only being more careful and is removing the shock so he can clean the threads and compress the spring with a spring compressor before adjusting the keeper. That would remove any risk of damaging the threads if the mechanism was not intended as a running adjustment. The dealer doing it for free is surely just going to loosen the locking ring and give it a good hard crank. The threads will surely be dirty. It will probably work. It may not. He might adjust it too far and risk coil binding. He may not.

But hey, you can't beat his price, huh?
Click to expand...

Now that I think about it. It makes sense the way you explain it. I wish the mechanic had explained it with more detail. I will ask more specific questions next time.

You make a good point about the price.

Thank you.

I am glad to be part of this forum, I learn something new every time I log in!

Tony
 
StratTuner said:
same here. There are some very smart people here, and I'm glad to have access.
Click to expand...
ditto. I bought my manual trans nc700x new in march. first new bike and my wife made me promise not to work on it. so I included the dealership's "pit pass".. 4 services with guaranteed 24hr turnaround for 1500$ onto the initial price.. sheesh! When I found out they used one of those for my 600 mile service (changed the oil and filter & checked cables etc.), I was PISSED! I can and will be happy to change my own oil,filters,cables, fluids, pads, and most anything else I can do in my own garage to avoid that kind of ripoff again. I actually prefer doing my own maintenance because then I have nobody to be pissed at but me if I screw up. From now on, I'll save the other 3 prepaid services for the service intervals needing valve checks, bearing repacks, etc. The next oil change, at about 2500 miles, was easier than on my Accord or Tundra. I'd rather change it earlier than later. It just makes me nervous going 5k on something that only holds 3.5q with a filter that small. I'm the same way with the cars too. Maybe I'm dating myself.. ;-)
 
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