Oops when you were under I forgot to add Silver was faster! Darn it! LOL
Givi engine bars
- Thread starter Rocker66
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Rocker66
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But the red is much prettier
I may agree if I could see one in person.
Jeez! Where did that rearview mirror and horn fetish come from? I bet they haven't the alternator capacity to actually power all those lights. Mod doesn't translate here, but Dork would be a good description. I enjoyed my scooter, but it was a manly Yamaha TMax in the proper blue color.
Rocker66
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- Joined
- Apr 11, 2012
- Messages
- 2,611
- Reaction score
- 8
- Points
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- Location
- Ashford Kent England
On these scooters the alternators were probably more powerfull than the pathetic engines they had
We didn't call them hair driers for nothing.If you get a bit of spare time may I suggest that you may find googling "Mods and Rockers" quite interesting
duk2n
Site Supporter
I had a look at some crash-sliders and found the ones manufactured by Puig. FYI, they provide bolts to fit their slides in the lower engine mounts, and they almost match your findings: 90 mm long for the left and 60 mm long for the right. Instructions to mount the slides can be found at: http://www.puig.tv/descargas/PUIG14018.pdf
So, perfect research, many thanks!
Quite welcome. Longer is OK because they tap through to free air. The only issue is to make sure there is enough threaded length. That is where I made the distance up with one or two washers. Crash sliders have a place on a smooth well-groomed racetrack but their use has always bothered me on the street. They do not distribute the impact very well and they can "dig in" if they encounter a hole or a step in the pavement. That can shear the slider at the engine mount or possibly launch the bike into a roll.
duk2n
Site Supporter
Absolutely agree, I prefer crash bars as well. Just checked the Puig sliders to see if they were providing bolts with their products or not, was a pleasure to see they actually do it-another spanish company doing good job
duk2n
Site Supporter
Hi Lee,
I just got my Givi bars. Do you remember if your bars presented this small asymetry?:
Yes they did. The left bar has more angle on the frame bracket.
duk2n
Site Supporter
Many thanks for confirming.
It had been strange from Givi, but I was thinking I got a bad manufacture
duk2n
Site Supporter
I just fitted my Givi engine bars too, following Beemerphile's advice about longer bolts
A couple of images with the result:
The only comment to do is that the measures of my original bolts were a little bit different to the measures taken by Beemer. It is strange, although my bike is european (spanish) and equiped with ABS, I don't think these are enough reasons for the different bolts...
Below, the measures of my bolts:
UPPER LEFT: 35mm long bolt with 4mm from face of frame flange to start of thread
UPPER RIGHT: 45mm long bolt with 12mm from face of frame flange to start of thread
LOWER LEFT: 80mm long bolt with 48mm from face of frame flange to start of thread
LOWER RIGHT: 55mm long bolt with 23mm from face of frame flange to start of thread
A couple of washers here and there did the job pretty well, and the original upper right bolt was used for the upper left as well.
HTH
I don't understand the difference between mine and yours, but as long as the bolt sticks out the back and the distance to start of threads is not greater than your measurement plus the thickness of the brackets, then all should be well. I know that you are aware of this José, but for others who haven't attempted it yet, if the start of threads is longer than the measured distance plus the thickness of the bracket, then the bolt will ground out when the end of threads is reached without tightening on the bracket and possibly damaging the threads in the engine block (because the bolt is harder than the block). A tap bolt (threaded the entire length) would end all worries, but these are not often available in the longer sizes. The longest 12mm extra fine tap bolt I could find was 65mm long.
dog
Site Supporter
Finally went ahead and got the GIVI crash bars for the NC700X for my DCT. I read in another thread that they will work on the DCT, but will not protect the clutch oil filter cover from scratches if it gets dropped. I'm OK with that as something is better than nothing. The only reason I'm posting about this at all is to let DCT owners know that Beemers bolt selection for the manual should work fine for the DCT. I checked and according to the service manual the 4 bolts in question are exactly the same on the NC700XD:
PPWW
New Member
Thanks dog.
I still haven't decided if go for Givi or SW-MoTech... this pushed the edge closer to 50/50.
I still haven't decided if go for Givi or SW-MoTech... this pushed the edge closer to 50/50.
ray
New Member
Appreciate a few links on where to order the Givi engine guards online. TIA
dog
Site Supporter
Did the GIVI crash bar install today, I ordered your bolt selection from Bolt Depot with 5 washers. Didn't use a caliper, but eyeballing it to prevent grounding out any bolts resulted in me needing one more washer, which I found in my garage: 3 on the lower right and one on each of the rest -- including the reused flange bolt on the upper left.
dog
Site Supporter
Appreciate a few links on where to order the Givi engine guards online. TIA
Sure, no problem. I got mine from sporttour.com:
Givi TN1111 Engine Guards - Honda NC700 X - Sport Tour Ltd.
I will say they have the best designed website with the most complete information about the stuff they carry. I think the sites for Twisted Throttle and RevZilla just plain suck. Not too sure about shipping to Singapore though. Motorcycle Superstore had them at the same price last time I looked.
Last edited:
kevicon
New Member
I also just received my givi bars from sporttour.com. ordered monday evening and received them Today via Fedex.
Holy cow the instructions that came with the bars are pretty useless I'd say. I was trying to read the "Pictures" to figure out whats required but with no luck.... I wish my install instructions were anything better than what they are. The installation does look like its supposed to be pretty straight forward but for someone who hasnt put them on before on any bike it may take a bit of figuring out (Which i still havent done yet). :|
dog
Site Supporter
Yes, those instructions aren't very good. You are mostly concerned with the engine mount bolts. They are items 1-4 in this illustration:
View attachment 4631
I would also carefully look over the earlier postings in this thread and consider getting the longer bolts Beemer mentions. The right is harder on the DCT, so I would start with it.
