Front Brakes

[Deckyon]

OK, so after rolling 17k miles on my DCT, and having a couple emergency stopping situations while making the ride to and from AMAVMD this weekend, I need new front pads for my NC. I hear a squeeking and slight grinding when coming to a stop. I have a couple questions, because I dont want to take it in to get it done if it is a simple matter of just replacing the pads myself.

1. Will I have to do anything with the fluid, like bleeding it or whatnot? I dont have any stuff to do that.
2. What I do not have available right now is the part numbers for the pads. Is there anyone who knows the part number that I can order online.
3. Are there any tips for a quick job of it? Or things I need to be aware of prior to taking the brake off the wheel? I am making the assumption I dont have to take the tire off.

 

[lootzyan]

... Is there anyone who knows the part number that I can order online...

You should compare to other sites...

View attachment 30398

 

[dduelin]

You should not have to do anything but back out and remove the pad retainer pin (Honda name Pad Hanger Pin in the above drawing) with an 8mm wrench or socket and the old pads should fall out. The new pads are thicker of course so they won't just fit right back in. The key is to press the caliper against disk first to make additional room for the new pads before removing the pad hanger pin. Press from outside toward the inside.

I do wonder though if the pads do need replacing at only 17,000 miles. My 2015 at 15,000 has A LOT of front pads left and the 2012 I traded at 29,xxx miles had A LOT of pad left. In the owners manual page 91 there is a drawing showing how to inspect the pads for wear. There is a small notch in leading edge of the pads that indicate when they need replacing. I use a small mirror and flashlight to look up into the caliper as the wear indicators face directly down. The noise and vibration you hear might be a glaze on the pad surfaces that is easily removed with some medium grit sandpaper like 180 or 220.

 

[670cc]

You do not need to bleed the brakes when changing the pads, but if you did (and it probably should be done) the only tools needed is a short piece of clear tubing and a simple wrench that fits the bleeder valve. Brake work can be done with no special tools. When you press the caliper pistons back to fit the new pads, you may need to remove fluid from the reservoir.

I have 27,000 miles and still have easily half the pads left. Take a look at your pads before you assume they're worn.

 

[Deckyon]

I will check them out, hopefully tonight. My biggest thought on this is, they were not making noise before the weekend, but quite audible after. I spend a lot of time in stop and go traffic, and as it is a DCT, there isnt enough engine braking at the lower speeds, so I am on the brakes a lot. I had a few times on the trip where the ABS was getting a workout as we went from 70+ mph to 0 in the blink of an eye with little warning. Considering how important brakes are, it is something I am concerned about.

 

[davidc83]

I had to replace mine around 20,000 miles (have to check my record book). Brad, do you have the service manual-if not, I can loan you mine. Step-by-step directions in the service manual for both the X and DCT models. If I remember correctly, wasn't that difficult-removed a pin, dropped out the old, inserted the new-had to push in the side of the caliber push pin so pads would go in-didn't have to remove any fluid from the reservoir (didn't even open it up).

 

[Deckyon]

I do have the service manual. Just put it on my mobile devices as well. Going to read a bit when I get a chance today. I did the parking brake back in December, and was hoping this would not be any more difficult than that.

 

[dduelin]

Brakes are a critical system and we should all be concerned with them - it's not misplaced concern. It's just that the pads in these bikes normally will go a lot further than you have gone and it's not unusual to get squeaking or a grunnnnching noise (which may just the pad vibrating in the caliper) from something other than worn out pads.

 

[RinconVTR]

I've ridden a lot of miles and done more track days than I can count with my fingers and toes, and NEVER wore out a set of pads. Yeah...never.

However, they did become less and less effective over miles and track abuse.

As others have said, pads are a simple swap, no fluid change is needed. But its wise, that once you have the new pads in you pull some new fluid thru the system. Here too, over time old fluid makes your system less effective.

 

[Deckyon]

Yep, got them off this morning and am ordering new ones. There is no way to save them, when I said I had some emergency braking situations on 16k mile pads, this is what happened over the weekend. Yes, I realize the inside/outside labels are reversed.

 

[sumo]

Down to the metal on the inside pad, is the disk okay?

Could the inside pad have been wearing incorrectly for a long time? Maybe it was seized on the unworn side?

 

[Deckyon]

These are questions I dont know the answer to. I have the pads ordered, and will get a friend to come and take a look for me. I had the bike in for the 16k mile service, they should have caught that... I am keeping the old pads and going over there when I get a chance and raise some ****ing hell with the service manager. I wondered how they got done. Makes me wonder about the air filter.

 

[670cc]

. . . I had the bike in for the 16k mile service, they should have caught that... I am keeping the old pads and going over there when I get a chance and raise some ****ing hell with the service manager. I wondered how they got done. Makes me wonder about the air filter.

Sooner or later most every one finds out not to trust dealer service.

From the Honda owner's manual, 16,000 mile service:
"Brake Pads Wear - Inspect"

From the dealer's point of view, shame on them for missing a revenue opportunity.

When you find out what that front disk costs (Honda list price $413.15), you'll probably be fine with using the one you have now, even if it got a little wear on it.

 

[Deckyon]

New pads have been installed with minimal fuss. Took a quick ride in the neighborhood and it stopped on a dime like it did when it was new. Then, was gonna head to the store but got caught in a downpour, so came home.

 

[sumo]

New pads have been installed with minimal fuss. Took a quick ride in the neighborhood and it stopped on a dime like it did when it was new. Then, was gonna head to the store but got caught in a downpour, so came home.

Good job!

.

 

[tew47]

Mine only lasted just over 12,000 miles, of course I used the bike to teach the ERC course and had to do a lot of emergency stops for the classes. New brakes work just like new or better. Got them through DeMoto and they are Volar VBP056HH pads for ten dollars a set.

 

[Deckyon]

Mine only lasted just over 12,000 miles, of course I used the bike to teach the ERC course and had to do a lot of emergency stops for the classes. New brakes work just like new or better. Got them through DeMoto and they are Volar VBP056HH pads for ten dollars a set.

That is where I got mine from. $10 from shipping.

 

[tew47]

Got two sets free shipping for less the twenty dollars. Brakes are great.