Chain maintenance while touring

[Tim Clynes]

Chain wax works better than oil, lasts longer on the chain, less fling, and penetrates water when applied to a wet chain.

WD40;

 

[kebrider]

That guy Dave knows who gets 30K from VFR chains is me (I think) and I actually get 50,000 miles or better. On tour I take a little baggie with a small can of WD and a small container of Transmission oil and a toothbrush. I pack paper towels but I usually just grab em from gas stations. Up on the centerstand, wipe clean with WD40 and toothbrush on a light coat of Trans oil. Wipe off toothbrush and done. 36K on the Tiger's chain and 3 adjustments. 2 when very new and one to loosen it about 15K ago. Triumph specs a very tight chain slack on the Tiger and I have gone through 2 front sprockets (hooked teeth) with the stock one hooked enough that I changed it out at 14K. I think the specified chain tension was too tight. I went with a 1 tooth larger replacement and used a JT sprocket and I checked it this weekend and it is hooked enough for replacement.

I ordered a Supersprox +1 replacement this time. The stock chain is amazing with absolutely zero stretch and you cannot even budge it a little off the rear sprocket. Quiet except for the front sprocket and not a single tight section. Rear sprocket is like new. When you roll any of my bikes with the engine off you hear no chain noise at all. When I sold the VFR it had 30K and 2 chain adjustments. That chain was well on its way to 60K. I sold the Versys with 30K on it and it was on the stock chain that had a tight spot from mile 1. The Versys has a poor reputation for stock chain life and if I had kept the bike I was going to change it at 40K because I never liked the way it hopped, or bounced, occasionally at steady speed. The Triumph chain never hops and neither did the VFR.

The NC's chain is worst I have ever seen stock. Tight spots and racked links. We will see how it does. I clean and lube every ride, regardless of miles.

S WD-40 works as a light cleaner and changing out front sprockets every 15K or so will give you long and trouble free chain life. For the record the VFR was ridden like a pure sports bike and spent a great deal of time in very fast company. Tire life was 1,200 to 1,500 miles. Remarkable how durable modern chains are. I believe the trans oil is superior protection for the O/X rings and the frequent light coating helps cushion the chain/sprocket tooth contact. I always laugh that my ST1300 shaft drive requires more lube than all my chain driven bikes combined. One quart of trans oil lasts 3 years with the chain drives and 1 quart of gear oil much less for the ST. Not to mention the moly paste at every tire change. And that is with 3 bikes and 2 full time riders along with occasional guests.

KEB

 

[DB1965]

I've toured many miles on my NC and couldn't be bothered with an oiler. First thing in the morning while the bike is on the centre stand I give it a shot of chain wax spray while spinning the rear tire slowly while in first gear. Works great and only takes about 30 seconds. I then pack the bike up, have breakfast and leave. It gives the oil/wax a chance to dry. I now have 14,000 kms on the bike and the chain still looks like new so I must be doing something right.

+ 1

 

[treybrad]

That guy Dave knows who gets 30K from VFR chains is me (I think) and I actually get 50,000 miles or better. On tour I take a little baggie with a small can of WD and a small container of Transmission oil and a toothbrush.

When you say transmission oil, you mean ATF, or actual gear oil? Seems I ran across something saying ATF was bad and would swell the o rings, but that's obviously BS if that's what you're doing.

I got 50k miles out of my old Bandit chain with nothing more than periodic cleanings with kerosene and an old toothbrush followed up with the Dupont Teflon stuff. Can't believe I've eaten two chains on the NC already at 40k.

trey

 

[L.B.S.]

I spend too much time riding in the rain and mud (or insane dust, when it's not raining ) to find it at all appealing to clean/wipe down/toothbrush my chain, I'm afraid. Maybe if I was strictly touring and riding on pavement in nice, sunny conditions.


...nah, who am I kidding. I'm also much too lazy to pamper my chain like that either, lol

 

[kebrider]

When you say transmission oil, you mean ATF, or actual gear oil? Seems I ran across something saying ATF was bad and would swell the o rings, but that's obviously BS if that's what you're doing.

I got 50k miles out of my old Bandit chain with nothing more than periodic cleanings with kerosene and an old toothbrush followed up with the Dupont Teflon stuff. Can't believe I've eaten two chains on the NC already at 40k.

trey

ATF. On the road I use straight ATF but my home stuff is ATF blended with Lucas ATF stabilizer. No reason other than the brush cleans easier with straight ATF which is handy on tour. Chain O-rings are usually Nitrile Butadiene rubber. There is a document published by the Parker Hannafin Corp that is the undeniable gold standard for o-ring material compatibility data. ATF is rated the same as virtually all oils. People mistake the fact that this type of O-ring material is not recommended for use in automatic transmissions but that has nothing to do with the lubricant.

Anyone that has ever seen one of my 50,000 mile chains never debates my choice of lubricant. What anyone chooses to use is strictly their decision. I only contribute my chain maintenance technique as an option since I have some solid data. Most of my riding friends do it the same because it works so well. I had a friend who got me to use gear oil years ago and my average chain life went from 15K to 30K. When transmission manufacturers started specifying ATF in manual transmissions the same friend tried it on his chain and he convinced me to switch from using gear oil because the ATF was cleaner and seems to have better resistance to rain wash-off. It is a subtle difference but I agreed after testing it myself.

I do believe the NC 520 chain should be a 525 considering the torque and weight. Buying the very highest spec 520 chain should help but an up-conversion to 525 would be the best way to cure rapid wear. Shaft drive would be welcome on the bike. I know I could have cared less about the cost of the NC. I just liked what it had to offer as a ride. Hell, I spent more on the NC, with mods, than I did on my last VFR that I bought new.


KEB