Question Chain maintenance

[r3tic]

I have a general question about chain maintenance. My Current practice is to clean the chain with Simple Green, brush if needed and rinse with water. Sometimes a second application is needed. I then take a short ride to dry the chain and apply Lucas Chain Lube. This is completed every 500mi or so. The issue I am having is that the Lube makes a mess. After rotating the drivetrain around a few times, I wipe the excess oil off and allow it to drip for at least overnight. Even after having let it "dry" for a couple of days, when I go for a ride, I get oil splatters all over the rear rim. My question would be, is there a good chain lube that creates a dry film and would be good for at least 500mi between applications? I am tired of the mess on the silver rim and really don't like the idea of extra oil on the rear wheel.

 

[Doc True]

Any wax based lube will work for you. This is an example of one, but there are several others https://smile.amazon.com/DuPont-Cha...1540662&sprefix=dupont+motorcy,aps,282&sr=8-2

 

[bigbird]

If you are getting chain lube splatter on the bodywork and wheel rim, you are using too much lube, or the lube is of very low viscosity and is not sticking to the O rings and rollers of the chain.
I use gear oil ( as recommended in the owner's manual) instead of the also recommended but high priced Honda specialized chain lube.
To apply the lube, I use a narrow paint brush and literally paint a thin coating on the top and bottom of the rollers.
The idea is to get the O-rings coated so that they don't dry out, rip, and lose their internal grease.
If the Simple Green and hose rinsing is doing the job of cleaning the chain, then stick with it.
I use kerosene sprayed on to the chain with a hand sprayer for cleaning, thoroughly wiped off and then air dried, before applying fresh gear oil.
This combo results in a very clean chain done at a very reasonable cost, and I get no splatter on the bike or wheel.

 

[TacomaJD]

I would not "Clean" your chain every 500 miles. I'd wait and clean it when it looks filthy. Probably doing more harm than good cleaning it that often. I use Maxima Chain Wax and have for years. It doesn't fling off near as badly as some of the other lubes I've used. I always try to lube when I get home from riding it, so that the chain is warmed up and hopefully helps the lube kinda "cook" on there. Even though I know it's not hot enough to actually cook it.....just wording for lack of better phrasing. I also use Maxima chain cleaner and a wrag, nothing more. But that's just me.

 

[Rabbit]

2nd on maxima chain wax. Works very well. Just spray it on every 2 tanks or so of gas and it works pretty well.

 

[Janus]

Another thing to help with overspray is a Grease Ninja

https://www.greaseninja.com/

 

[670cc]

In my opinion and experience, a chain that is often cleaned will live a short life. I would definitely skip the brush for cleaning.

I don't over lube my chain. I wipe it clean with a little kerosene on a rag every few thousand miles.

Lubing with gear oil as suggested in the owner's manual works well if you don't use too much, and you wipe it down after it soaks in.

The sad thing is, chain drive and clean rear wheels just don't go together well.

As for lubing the chain when it's hot, I dunno. I measured the chain temperature after a ride and it was only 15 degrees F above ambient temperature. So I don't think it would make much difference.

 

[bigbird]

The sad thing is, chain drive and clean rear wheels just don't go together well.

That's very true.
For more proof, just look at the rear hub and rim of a bicycle wheel that has had regular chain lubrication.

 

[the Ferret]

Technically with lube sealed on the inside by o-rings, any lubrication is to keep side plates from rusting which could be done by running your chain through a rag dipped in 80/90 wgt oil ( or your favorite chain lube) and that would probably be plenty, but I'm as guilty as the next guy in soaking a chain with a too heavy spray of chain lube and letting it fling all over the back wheel lol

 

[potter0o]

I'll pile on this band wagon . I rarley clean the chain any more. Whatever comes off when I wipe down the chain was meant to come off. I do lube it every 800 km ish per the manual. I ride in all enviroments including pouring rain so rust protection is a legitmate concern. I have used different lubes and am always looking for that fine line between wet lube cleaning and sticking anti fling. Some seem to have an almost degreasing element to them when first applied and then evaporates off. I have a wax right now I don't love it. Will change the brand brand again. I have used a Motul version that really sticks to the chain but it is so sticky that dirt actual sticks to it. I use it in the rainy season to use it up now as I visualize a grinding paste in the summer. Good luck with finding something that suits your taste

 

[Deleted member 1183]

There is a misconception out there that because a chain has oring seals that chain lube is not as important. This is incorrect. The rollers have no sealed in lube, only the pins. As such the rollers need plenty of lube to roll smoothly on their bushings or otherwise they will wear prematurely and further will wear the sprockets.

I agree with comment above about avoiding cleaning. I never clean a chain other than an occasional wipe of a cloth on the outside of the side plates. Imho brushing can damage the orings. My regime is a light spray of Wurth HHS2000 grease after each ride. However to ensure that there is sufficient lube under the rollers I occasionally use a good wash of Stihl chainsaw oil instead and let it sit overnight.

Unfortunately as mentioned again above, long distance riding and clean back wheels don't go hand in hand.

 

[Jt105]

I use Liquid Wrench Chain and Cable lube. I press the nozzle lightly and get a line of foamy lube out the end of the straw applicator. Chain gets all oily. If it is really dirty, I'll wipe it down with a few paper towels. The carrier solvent in the liquid lube dissolves the old lube and it easily wipes clean. I lube every 500 miles or so in the evening. By morning, the carrier solvent has evaporated away and the lube stays on the chain and doesn't fling.

 

[TacomaJD]

In my opinion and experience, a chain that is often cleaned will live a short life. I would definitely skip the brush for cleaning.

I don't over lube my chain. I wipe it clean with a little kerosene on a rag every few thousand miles.

Lubing with gear oil as suggested in the owner's manual works well if you don't use too much, and you wipe it down after it soaks in.

The sad thing is, chain drive and clean rear wheels just don't go together well.

As for lubing the chain when it's hot, I dunno. I measured the chain temperature after a ride and it was only 15 degrees F above ambient temperature. So I don't think it would make much difference.

Yep, the hot chain lube theory is just one of those weird things I do that I feel like might help, but realistically probably doesn't and I definitely agree with everything else here. That's the way to do it.

 

[TacomaJD]

Here's what I've settled on. A chain is a consumable part...they don't last forever. And the difference between average care and the most over-thought, perfect, proper care in the world for a chain isn't going to extend it's life enough over one that's had "average care" to justify all the extra work, so I just do average care to my chains and will replace when they need it.... instead of stressing over chain care all the time. Worry less, ride more.

I was on an overnight trip one time last year and could audibly hear the chain on my street NC squeaking it was so dry. I forgot to lube it before leaving the house, despite saying to myself earlier that week "don't forget to lube the chain before leaving out". LOL. Anyways, that bike is about to roll over 9k miles, all 9k of which are on the oem chain. I bought the bike last year from the original owner, 2016 NC700X, and only had 4,100 miles on it. But when I bought the bike, I guess the guy had done a super clean job on it to help sell. The chain was super clean, but also super dry, so I'm not sure what method he used to clean it. Anyway, I haven't cleaned it at all in the last nearly 5k miles, but I have kept it lubed with the exception of forgetting about it once or twice LOL. Noticed when I was lubing the chain the other day, some of the links were kinked. So, I am about to buy another chain for it.

I replaced the other chain on my track NC at around 10-11k miles with a DID VX3, which is probably what I will put on the street NC. I'm anxious to see how long it lasts compared to the oems that both wore out by or before 10k miles.

 

[Doc True]

Here's what I've settled on. A chain is a consumable part...they don't last forever. And the difference between average care and the most over-thought, perfect, proper care in the world for a chain isn't going to extend it's life enough over one that's had "average care" to justify all the extra work, so I just do average care to my chains and will replace when they need it.... instead of stressing over chain care all the time. Worry less, ride more.

I think this is the definitive statement on chain maintenance.

 

[halfSpinDoctor]

I use Royal Purple 11407 Max Chain Lube. It is a wax lube. I apply it after riding, and let it sit overnight. The next day, it is a vicious wax that does not splatter (unless I put way too much on).

For cleaning, I just use a rag with the chain lube sprayed on it and wipe the outside, that's it. I don't even bother with kerosene or WD-40 anymore, wetting the rag with the lube is enough to get the gunk off.

 

[dduelin]

There is a misconception out there that because a chain has oring seals that chain lube is not as important. This is incorrect. The rollers have no sealed in lube, only the pins. As such the rollers need plenty of lube to roll smoothly on their bushings or otherwise they will wear prematurely and further will wear the sprockets.

I agree with comment above about avoiding cleaning. I never clean a chain other than an occasional wipe of a cloth on the outside of the side plates. Imho brushing can damage the orings. My regime is a light spray of Wurth HHS2000 grease after each ride. However to ensure that there is sufficient lube under the rollers I occasionally use a good wash of Stihl chainsaw oil instead and let it sit overnight.

Unfortunately as mentioned again above, long distance riding and clean back wheels don't go hand in hand.

The pins run through the rollers, that's where the grease is contained by the rings against the side plates. Where else would the rollers be greased to lubricate the bushings in the rollers?

I have many long distance mile days with a clean rear wheel. Several documented 1000+ mile days and uncounted 300-600 mile days and many of those back to back to back up to 3500 mile trips. I think the difference in operating environments have to account for some differences of maintenance required. In this and other forums I see instances of severe corrosion on bikes ridden year round in the UK whereas the climate where I ride is not as severe and accumulations of 1000 miles or more might only then need a light wipe-off and reapplication of a tiny amount of 50/50 ATF and 80/90 gear oil t run quiet and clean another 1000 miles.

 

[MZ5]

I currently use AliSyn chain lube. I've been a bit surprised how happy I've been with it over the past couple to few years. I haven't ridden as much in that time as I used to, though, but it's surprising to me that I _don't_ have any kinked links in the chain yet. Every other strategy I've used I'd have had kinked links by now.

 

[halfSpinDoctor]

I'm anxious to see how long it lasts compared to the oems that both wore out by or before 10k miles.

I did the same... bought the bike, a 2013 700X, with about 6500 mi on it and all original chain, tyres, etc. I replaced the OE chain last summer (2020) at 8000 mi. It had several kinked links, o-rings bulging out. When I took off the front sprocket cover, there was a little graveyard of dead o-rings that it had ejected.

Put on a DID VX3. I'll lube it every 500-600 mi, but only clean once or twice a year with just a rag. We will see how many miles I get out of it. It got a little rusty after riding in the winter. I do try to avoid it if possible, but there were a few 40° F+ days in January that were too tempting to resist. Rust came off with a rag and a week of riding.

 

[Deleted member 1183]

The pins run through the rollers, that's where the grease is contained by the rings against the side plates. Where else would the rollers be greased to lubricate the bushings in the rollers?

Disagree. The pins run thru the bushings on which the rollers spin. See diagram. The rollers do not have sealed in lube. Go check Your chain and see how easily the rollers move side to side.

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