Chain Guide Question

[StratTuner]

Time to replace the chain again, and I notice that rubberized guide the chain passes over needs replacement too.

What is that thing called?

I can't google it to buy one....since googling

"that rubber chain guard thingie"

didn't find it for me. Anyone know where I can buy one of those .... things?

Also... this particular chain is coming up on 12K miles...usually when I replace.
This chain is unusual because it NEVER needed adjustment. It still does not.
However, it's making the high pitched whine typical of a chain that needs replacement.

What to do?

The whine says replace, the adjustment says not to.

 

[670cc]

Chain whine could be from being too tight, being misaligned, or just the nature of that chain. If links are not tight and the chain is not at the wear indicator, I definitely would not replace it just because of whine.

The chain guide that is attached to the font of the swing arm is a Honda specific part, which you would order by looking up the part on an on-line OEM parts supplier's "microfiche" or parts finder. I just did so for a 2012 NC700X and it's the following Honda part:

52170-MGS-D30

SLIDER, CHAIN

List:$41.07

Discounted:$30.80

 

[1wiseguy2]

What do your sprockets look like? How many miles on them?

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[happy]

What do your sprockets look like? How many miles on them?

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2 chains 1 sprocket set.
If money no problem...change chain and both sprockets.

Rubber thing is called chain guide.

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[Brillot2000]

52170-MGS-D30

SLIDER, CHAIN

List:$41.07

Discounted:$30.80

I get all my parts from Dillion Brothers in Nebraska when I am not in a hurry for them.

SLIDER, CHAIN, 52170-MGS-D30 - $29.37

Use the code "50OFFSHIP" to get 50% off shipping before checking out.

Replacing this piece will require the removal of the swingarm to perform the work. You will probably require an impact driver to the get the swingarm nut lose.

 

[670cc]

Replacing this piece will require the removal of the swingarm to perform the work. You will probably require an impact driver to the get the swingarm nut lose.

The slider is U-shaped and wraps around the front of the swingarm. The slider is not a closed loop. You could remove the swing arm if you wanted to, but I don't see why that would be necessary to replace the slider.

 

[1wiseguy2]

If you have a good quality chain and clean and lube it then I see no reason to replace by miles. The stock chain usually needs replacing around 13,000 miles from what I read on the forum but a good DID or EK chain should go much much longer.
Do you have a chain alignment tool? I have a Motion Pro and it works well.
By tight 670 means if links kink and don't pivot/flex easily. If it does that then the O-Rings are shot and the internals are rusting. How is your slack adjustment now? Are you at the replacement marks?

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[Brillot2000]

The slider is U-shaped and wraps around the front of the swingarm. The slider is not a closed loop. You could remove the swing arm if you wanted to, but I don't see why that would be necessary to replace the slider.

I had to replace one on my 1987 XL600R and I had to remove the swingarm to gain access to the securing screws due to clearance issues. Honda tends to do things in the same manner all over in their products. I would not be surprised if that is the case with this bike too.



I reviewed the parts for the NC and it is open like you said. However, clearance for a screwdriver is still a concern.

Prepare the worst and hope for the best...

 

[670cc]

I had to replace one on my 1987 XL600R and I had to remove the swingarm to gain access to the securing screws due to clearance issues. Honda tends to do things in the same manner all over in their products. I would not be surprised if that is the case with this bike too.

View attachment 35569

I reviewed the parts for the NC and it is open like you said. However, clearance for a screwdriver is still a concern.

Prepare the worst and hope for the best...

The NC700X is not done the same as your 30+ year old 1987 XL600R. You remove the two screws and washers securing the chain guide, and roll it off the swing arm without removing the swing arm from the frame. The two slider screws are accessible.

 

[Brillot2000]

Prepare to be surprised, because the NC700X is not done the same as the XL600R. You remove the two screws and washers securing the chain guide, and roll it off the swing arm without removing the swing arm from the frame. The two slider screws are accessible.
View attachment 35570

That's great news for StratTunner then.

 

[670cc]

That's great news for StratTunner then.

True, but there never was bad news, just fake news.

You stated in post 5 that "Replacing this piece will require the removal of the swingarm to perform the work." without researching whether that was actually true. Upon reading that, someone might have assumed that the work was beyond their ability, when in fact if they can change a chain, they could easily change the slider on the NC700X.

 

[Brillot2000]

Fake news is a trend these days. I am trying to keep up with the current times. No worries.

 

[StratTuner]

The chain guide that is attached to the font of the swing arm is a Honda specific part, which you would order by looking up the part on an on-line OEM parts supplier's "microfiche" or parts finder. I just did so for a 2012 NC700X and it's the following Honda part:

52170-MGS-D30

SLIDER, CHAIN

List:$41.07

Discounted:$30.80

Many thanks. I googled the part # (52170-MGS-D30), and partzilla.com had the item for $30.

 

[StratTuner]

I keep a spreadsheet just for that.
I replace sprockets every OTHER chain, so the current sprockets have 12K, and the chain has the same. For me, that means I will be replacing chain ONLY this time. (well...and the chain guide now that I found one.)

 

[StratTuner]

The slider is U-shaped and wraps around the front of the swingarm. The slider is not a closed loop. You could remove the swing arm if you wanted to, but I don't see why that would be necessary to replace the slider.

well... I remember that the last time I replaced this, it stretches over the front of the swing arm. The guide itself has two protrusions (better word?) that fit into two holes on the swing arm. They fit snugly, but I don't believe one has to remove the swing arm to remove the old one or put the new one on.

(looking at the parts fische, I see that it has two screws that hold it on. Both were/are accessible, so the swing arm stays where it is.)

I defer to your expertise here, and I'm really reluctant to suggest something different than what you stated.

 

[StratTuner]

Do you have a chain alignment tool? I have a Motion Pro and it works well.
By tight 670 means if links kink and don't pivot/flex easily. If it does that then the O-Rings are shot and the internals are rusting. How is your slack adjustment now? Are you at the replacement marks?

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Yes, I have the same chain alignment tool and learned how to use it from this forum.
the chain shows no signs yet of individual links "binding" like i'm used to seeing on a worn chain.
As per your advice, I'm going to let it go until I see stiff links binding. (that's how I know it's time to replace.)

Please don't laugh, but I've never understood how to read the "replacement marks", and because of that, couldn't point to them on the motorcycle.

I keep the slack between 3.5 CM and 4.0 CM as per specs.
I measure that with a tape measurer in the way that Beemerphile (famous poster on this board) described.

• Hold the measuring tape on the chain with its measuring tape body on the ground.
• Push the chain up as far as it will go,
• take a reading on the tape where it enters the body.
• Push the chain as far DOWN as it will go (still holding the tape on to the chain)
• take a reading on the tape where it enters the measuring tape body.
• The difference should be 3.5 CM

 

[StratTuner]

That's great news for StratTunner then.

It is, indeed! (mechanical novice that I am.)

 

[1wiseguy2]

"Please don't laugh, but I've never understood how to read the "replacement marks", and because of that, couldn't point to them on the motorcycle."

Tomorrow I will take pictures and post.

Guy

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[StratTuner]

"Please don't laugh, but I've never understood how to read the "replacement marks", and because of that, couldn't point to them on the motorcycle."

Tomorrow I will take pictures and post.

Guy

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I found the illustration in the manual (again), and I think I understand what's supposed to happen and why I never learned it.


If (IF), I read this correctly, the chain needs replacing when you can no longer see ANY of the chain adjuster hash marks.
The diagram doesn't say that, and that's why I've always ignored it. It's unclear about how to read it (at least to stupid people like me).

I'll go and look and see how many "hash marks" are visible on mine...if any.

that little inset that reads "new/replace chain" doesn't mean much. "new/replace chain" ... when?
when what?

 

[StratTuner]

I just scrubbed it clean and checked.
It looks a lot like the illustration.
The nut is holding a metal "thing" over the adjusting slot (where the hash marks are).
I presume i sight the rear edge of the "thing" over the slot.
That edge is on the front side about one entire hash mark away from the mark with the two arrow points.

So, when that edge covers the adjusting slot so you can't see the hash marks anymore, it's time to replace?

that seems right since that edge thing would move backward as you adjust the chain to pull it withing specified slack tolerance.
IF I read it correctly, I'm still in "new chain" territory. hhhhmmm....