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Aprilia Tuono Rear Shock (Sachs)

I bought a HF spring compressor for around $20,modified it a little and it works

How exactly did you modify the spring compressor to work with the Tuono shock? Looks like I'll need to grind a bit off the 'hooks' of the compressor to fit the spring, which obviously makes it a little less secure, but I think I can do a decently safe job of it.

Shop wants $40 to swap springs here, figure if I ruin a $13 tool it's no great loss, might as well give it a shot. Thought I'd ask how you did it in case you had a better solution than that.

As always, use at your own risk, not recommended, etc, etc :p

trey
 
For those of you who have installed the Sachs shock, what did you set the sag too? I just got around to setting the sag and to get a sag of 38mm I pretty much had to adjust the shock all the way to it's limit and I only weigh 175lbs. I think that the numbers for the spring might not be correct.
 
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With the longer and heavier spring I'm at 20% of overall travel and have some adjustment left to go.
 
With the longer and heavier spring I'm at 20% of overall travel and have some adjustment left to go.

I used the exact same spring specs you did because your weight was close to mine. I've almost bottomed out the adjustment ring and can no longer see the threads on the coil side. What was your sag number? When you say 20% do I understand it correctly in that you have used 80% of your adjustment? Wouldn't a heavier spring result in the adjustment ring positioned in the centre (50%)?
 
I used the exact same spring specs you did because your weight was close to mine. I've almost bottomed out the adjustment ring and can no longer see the threads on the coil side. What was your sag number? When you say 20% do I understand it correctly in that you have used 80% of your adjustment? Wouldn't a heavier spring result in the adjustment ring positioned in the centre (50%)?

I can't recall exact numbers now but it was at 20% of the shocks total travel. My adjustment collar is pretty low, definitely not in the middle, but not bottomed out. I want to say sag is around 25-30mm if I recall.

Example, shock total travel is 5.9 inches (and I think the Tuono shock is, but I can't recall exactly), so 20% of 5.9 inches is 1.18 inches or 29mm. So I adjusted the preload until my sag was 29mm.

Some people run 30% sag, some run 15%, some run set numbers. For me I almost always start at 20% of travel on all my bikes and go from there.
 
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Thanks for the reply. I understand now. I used 38mm which translates to 25% of shock travel and followed this information.

http://nc700-forum.com/forum/nc700-technical/3006-setting-rear-suspension-sag-via-preload-adjustment.html

I still have some adjustment and if you can obtain a 20% sag then I will have enough to allow for sag adjustment when I have the luggage installed. I can't evaluate the ride quality because it's winter here but in three weeks I'll be riding in Florida and will post the results.
 
Sounds like you're right in the ball park then.

Thanks for the reply. I understand now. I used 38mm which translates to 25% of shock travel and followed this information.

http://nc700-forum.com/forum/nc700-technical/3006-setting-rear-suspension-sag-via-preload-adjustment.html

I still have some adjustment and if you can obtain a 20% sag then I will have enough to allow for sag adjustment when I have the luggage installed. I can't evaluate the ride quality because it's winter here but in three weeks I'll be riding in Florida and will post the results.
 
I know it's going to bug me though and I'll probably order up the 180mm X 120 spring. That should put the adjustment ring near centre.

Id hold off. Doesn't matter where the adjustment is at, so long as your sag and free sag are where you want them. You may also find that 30-35% is more comfortable for you on the street.

Give a ride first :)
 
For those of you who have installed the Sachs shock, what did you set the sag too? I just got around to setting the sag and to get a sag of 38mm I pretty much had to adjust the shock all the way to it's limit and I only weigh 175lbs. I think that the numbers for the spring might not be correct.

I also think the spring could be another step or two stiffer. I went with the specs mentioned, and it works fine with ~1.5" sag, around 30%, but my preload is well over half.

On initial install I set it a little under half way on the preload collar, and on my test ride it was clearly too soft. Came back, put it about 3/4 loaded and I'm in the ballpark. Think I'll keep clicking the compression adjustments harder, I'm about 10 clicks from max hard now and it's still a little squishy.

Tomorrow on my commute (on all too familiar roads) I'll know more. It's a huge, HUGE improvement from my blown, leaky stock shock so far. Seems to be a good, cheap option.

Edit to say, I'm light... Maybe 170lb geared up, but always with a top case and side cases mounted. Probably another 20lb of static weight always hanging off my tail...

trey
 
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Don't forget, most Tuono shocks have a rebound adjustment only. It is combined to adjust compression, but much less so than the rebound -- so your clicker may not give you the increased compression you look for.

Bottom line if you get your preload where you want it and you still have 3-7mm of free sag you're fine. If you don't, then you need a stiffer spring. Where the adjustment collar is, is of no consequence.
 
Don't forget, most Tuono shocks have a rebound adjustment only. It is combined to adjust compression, but much less so than the rebound -- so your clicker may not give you the increased compression you look for.

Bottom line if you get your preload where you want it and you still have 3-7mm of free sag you're fine. If you don't, then you need a stiffer spring. Where the adjustment collar is, is of no consequence.

Thanks for that information. I never measured my free sag so it will be interesting where it's sitting. So if I have lower than the 3mm of free sag (static sag) I need a heavier spring.
 
Thanks for that information. I never measured my free sag so it will be interesting where it's sitting. So if I have lower than the 3mm of free sag (static sag) I need a heavier spring.

Correct. Unless the bike rides great for you :)
 
Correct. Unless the bike rides great for you :)

So I couldn't wait until morning, it's midnight here, ran out to the garage to measure my free sag and its pretty much non existent. Maybe 1-2mm. With the bike sitting on the ground lifting up on the back shows no movement but the tape reads 2mm which is a result of my hand on the bike steading it in an upright position. So it looks like a new spring will have to be ordered.
 
Tomorrow on my commute (on all too familiar roads) I'll know more. It's a huge, HUGE improvement from my blown, leaky stock shock so far. Seems to be a good, cheap option.

I'm very pleased. My commute this morning revealed that the spring is strong enough to prevent bottoming even on the big, rolling heaves around my office. I guess I'd prefer it to be a hair stiffer just to feel a little sportier, but it's certainly not worth the trouble of swapping a spring.

For $200 all in, I'm happy. Hopefully it'll last longer than the OEM shock did.

trey
 
I'm very pleased. My commute this morning revealed that the spring is strong enough to prevent bottoming even on the big, rolling heaves around my office. I guess I'd prefer it to be a hair stiffer just to feel a little sportier, but it's certainly not worth the trouble of swapping a spring.

For $200 all in, I'm happy. Hopefully it'll last longer than the OEM shock did.

trey

Yes but what is your free sag? I suspect you have none which is important.
 
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I'm not a suspension expert, so I don't try to measure sag to millimeter precision. I took what you guys had done, did the same thing, then made some adjustments front and rear so the the bike rides level, doesn't twitch or slide in the turns, and both ends go up and down together when I jump on the pegs. My bike feels a lot more firm, it doesn't bottom out on bumps any more. I put a tad more preload on the rear shock, so I've got just the barest forward lean on the seat, not as bad as when the bike was new, but I'm sitting probably an inch higher now versus when I bought the bike. The extra preload was necessary because the bike felt like it was drifting or wanted to drift in the corners. Now that it is level, the bike feels rock solid in the curves. Also, before making the front and rear suspension mods, I could easily flat foot the bike, and now my heels are just off the pavement. When I would take the bike off the center stand before, I thought the suspension was going to bottom out. Now, it only sags a small bit, maybe an inch. I like it stiffer because I'm a little heavy right now, and I like the feedback in the curves. So I guess what I am saying is that I set suspension based on feeling, with only a little bit of measurement and science. I don't care about millimeters.

Went for a long ride Saturday with friends, riding lots (200 miles) of curvy roads in north Alabama. The bike handles so much better now, I was in the front of the pack the whole day and giggling like a school girl because it was so much fun. The bike still doesn't accelerate worth a damn, but it has forced me to maintain my pace better so that I don't fall behind. Check out my Fuelly icon below --- I'm riding this bike as hard as I can and still getting 58 mpg. Unbelievable.

PC130027_zps10049998.jpg


lrc_zpsf2025f88.png
 
^^^^ Smart man.

It's important to remember that Free Sag, Static and Rider Sag are all GENERAL GUIDELINES and opinions. They are not hard and fast rules.

In most cases they are good guidelines to START from, but the most important thing is how well the bike rides for you and your needs. Not what I, or some expert, or Racetech say.
 
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