• A few people have been scammed on the site, Only use paypal to pay for items for sale by other members. If they will not use paypal, its likely a scam NEVER SEND E-TRANSFERS OF ANY KIND.

What is this? (re aux wiring)

Rockt

New Member
Joined
Jun 27, 2023
Messages
24
Reaction score
5
Points
3
Location
Ontario, Canada
Visit site
This is where my OEM Honda heated grips are wired into. Is this the accessory harness or sub harness I keep reading about when I searched aux lighting. Looking to hook up LED fog lights.

1713653881181.jpeg

1713653924362.jpeg
 
I've always liked adding lights and other accessories with a relay if you are going to use the existing wiring as a trigger or switch. This would usually call for an auxiliary fusebox. The reason I do this is there is minimal modification to the existing wiring and should something go wrong, it does not take out other items on the circuit.

Of course it is additional work, but that is what winter layup is for.
 
Winter layup is hopefully over :D

I'm not sure which way I'll go yet but if I have the OEM heated grips (bought the bike used with them already installed) , I might have the accessory harness and the relay already, right?
 
What model year are we looking at here, and for context, where on the bike are the photos taken?
 
It's a 20113 NC700X.

Pictures are of the area behind the forks/triple clamps, left side. If you look at the 2nd pic, you can see the radiator and the front fender covered by a cloth.
 
It's a 20113 NC700X.

Pictures are of the area behind the forks/triple clamps, left side. If you look at the 2nd pic, you can see the radiator and the front fender covered by a cloth.
On the 2013, the Honda Accessory Harness 6P connector resides on the frame at the mid left side of the motorcycle, sort of just below the frunk/seat junction. The four connector accessory harness attaches there. Then from there, Honda uses an additional harness for heated grip attachment. See instructions for heated grip installation here: http://cssportal.css-club.net/honda/MCA/contents/20121109165721_3157.pdf

Your post #1 photos may be showing the heated grip harness. You need to remove the left side cover to access the actual accessory harness. The directions linked above show how to do that. You only need remove the left air duct and left side cover, but not the left front side cowl.

E154270E-A870-4475-8761-296DDA623E58.jpeg9181274B-CE75-4979-9FD7-9BED5E7BC069.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • CE11608E-9047-49DE-A4A9-E33BC8188AD4.jpeg
    CE11608E-9047-49DE-A4A9-E33BC8188AD4.jpeg
    712.1 KB · Views: 3
Last edited:
Got the plastic off, (hopefully I'll get it back on). I definitely have the sub harness.

1713731992707.jpeg

1713732035715.jpeg

I don't see a relay anywhere but maybe I'm not looking in the right place. Regardless, if I get a set of led lights (was thinking about these: https://www.amazon.ca/Zmoon-Motorcycle-Projector-Spotlight-Compatible/dp/B08GS4QTZN/ref=sr_1_20_mod_primary_new?keywords=Motorcycle+Auxiliary+Lights&qid=1691972290&sbo=RZvfv//HxDF+O5021pAnSA==&sr=8-20#customerReviews), the sub harness should handle it, right? (OEM heated grips = 4 amps max.; lights = 1.8 amps). If so, how/where do I plug them in and is there a way to switch them on and off or will they be on whenever the key is turned on?

From the diagram on the Amazon page, it looks like the lights have 3 wires. I believe one is ground and you use one of the other 2 for yellow and one for white. Again I'm only interested in the yellow to increase conspicuity.
 
Last edited:
Makes sense, thanks dduelin.

So I'm covered capacity-wise, relay-wise, just have to know how to tap into one of the extra leads on the sub harness?
 
Makes sense, thanks dduelin.

So I'm covered capacity-wise, relay-wise, just have to know how to tap into one of the extra leads on the sub harness?
You’ll have a 7.5 amp total capacity for the 4 harness plugs. The relay is closed and the harness outputs powered when the bike key is on. One connector on the harness has a third wire (blue). It is hot when the high beam is on. With some auxiliary light controllers, you can control aux light intensity by triggering off this high beam signal.
 
I'm guessing I won't need to control the aux light intensity - they're small lights, (though reportedly bright). With the right aiming of them, they should give me the conspicuity factor without blinding oncoming drivers. Since the lights can be either white or yellow, I think it might make sense to wire in a on-off-on switch, just in the unlikely case I'm out at night and want the extra lighting the white option might provide.

But first I have to connect the lights to the sub harness, so re the 4 sub harness plugs, did you cut off one of the plugs and and add connectors to connect to the light leads or is there an adaptor to convert the light leads into a match for the sub harness plugs (I know, I'm an ignoramus with this stuff).
 
FYI, most manufacturers group relays and fuses in a few locations rather than scattered around the vehicle. The exception might be a main fuse sitting atop the battery or adjacent to it.

Yellow light provides more contrast than white light. For years France required yellow headlights. From Wikipedia:
"The intent of selective yellow is to improve vision by removing short, blue to violet wavelengths from the projected light. These wavelengths are difficult for the human visual system to process properly, and they cause perceived dazzle and glare effects in rain, fog and snow.[7] Removing the blue-violet portion of a lamp's output to obtain selective yellow light can entail filter losses of around 15%,[8] though the effect of this reduction is said to be mitigated or countervailed by the increased visual acuity available with yellow rather than white light in bad weather.[7]
 
But first I have to connect the lights to the sub harness, so re the 4 sub harness plugs, did you cut off one of the plugs and and add connectors to connect to the light leads or is there an adaptor to convert the light leads into a match for the sub harness plugs (I know, I'm an ignoramus with this stuff).
You can cut off the Honda connector and splice or connect the wires any way you like. But in my book, the proper way is to obtain matching connectors for your accessory wire, and plug it into the Honda connector as Honda would do it. There are some threads that talk about sourcing the connectors; here is one: https://www.nc700-forum.com/threads/corresponding-connectors.3146/ I had obtained these connectors for my 2012 long ago and they were an exact match. I’m not sure if that particular source is still active, but there have been more recent threads mentioning sources. Eastern Beaver may be one.

If I was not using Honda compatible connecters, I’d probably use crimp on bullet connectors appropriately sized to the wire and gender chosen appropriate for electrical67D56663-FFF7-4589-A2A3-B3B82F44A3A4.jpeg polarity.
 
Thanks again 670. I've been searching threads here and saw the Cycle Terminal connectors. The only problem is that it will be about $30 CDN for 2 connectors by the time I get them delivered here. I'm all for doing things right but that's a bit crazy. I did a search to see if I could come up with something in Canada but so far haven't found anything. Will keep looking. I might have to go the bullet connector route you've shown.
 
Bullet connectors are ok, but not as good as the spade type with locking tabs on the plastic housing. I'd suggest laying in a supply of parts and pieces for future use. If you do go with the OEM type, be sure to buy extra male and female terminals (the metal parts). It is very easy to ruin one while crimping - there is a short learning curve. Don't skimp on the crimp tool either. The cheap ones will ruin more terminals.

There is a reason why the bike manufacturers use the wiring connectors they do, and it does not always translate to money (which surely has a very big part of it).
 
Back
Top