Tips, Tricks, Advice learned from experience
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If you're going to buy new gear or just starting out, plan out a system that lets you ride as long as possible in any condition safely and comfortably.
You don't need to buy those $1500+ adventure jackets and you'll get more versatility of you plan layers.
Use lightweight Goretex shells over your non waterproof gear to make an all weather riding gear system without compromising protection, comfort or style. (In the summer you may find discounted downhill skiing Goretex shells which work great.)
Add a reflective vest for night time riding over your black jackets or all the time wherever drivers are idiots.
Here is what I use, it's mostly the RevIT brand I got on sale or used from eBay. (If you live in the USA or Canada and the dollar is strong, you can sometimes find deals on European web sites as the adventure market is more prominent there.)
Primarily, I wear the black leathers, RevIT Ignition jacket and Gear pants.
They have all the armor, hips, back, knees, shoulders, elbows etc... Leather where it counts and mesh to breathe everywhere else, 90 degrees F and comfortable when moving. They look badass too, but you'll need a Euro body for them...(skinny)
The jacket zips to the pants almost 360 at the waist. I put these on and rolled/slid around on the carpet and nothing moved.
A step down from the leather-mesh pants is a pair of RevIT Rockefeller with the zipper belt added. I wear these when I can't be at my destination in leather pants.
They are full length cordura and Kevlar on the inside, plus armor over the knees and hips, a strap under the boot holds everything in place. I wear vented leather gloves with palm sliders and I wear SIDI Adventure Rain boots all the time.
Next to the leather armor gear I have some Klim Over-Shell Goretex shells and some Goretex gloves. The best thing about these is that they can be thrown on very quickly if caught in a storm (which I had to do a few days ago!) the pants can be put on without taking boots off. Very important.
They pack down small. These shells zipper over the black leather gear so protection isn't compromised and they breath so I'm not soaked from the inside out.
They can all be crammed into a bag then the frunk with room to spare, then pulled out and put on at the first hint of rain:
And at night everything lights up:
I have some warmnsafe heated liners for cold weather that fit snugly under the leathers.
Cold November rain? Bring it!
You don't need to buy those $1500+ adventure jackets and you'll get more versatility of you plan layers.
Use lightweight Goretex shells over your non waterproof gear to make an all weather riding gear system without compromising protection, comfort or style. (In the summer you may find discounted downhill skiing Goretex shells which work great.)
Add a reflective vest for night time riding over your black jackets or all the time wherever drivers are idiots.
Here is what I use, it's mostly the RevIT brand I got on sale or used from eBay. (If you live in the USA or Canada and the dollar is strong, you can sometimes find deals on European web sites as the adventure market is more prominent there.)
Primarily, I wear the black leathers, RevIT Ignition jacket and Gear pants.
They have all the armor, hips, back, knees, shoulders, elbows etc... Leather where it counts and mesh to breathe everywhere else, 90 degrees F and comfortable when moving. They look badass too, but you'll need a Euro body for them...(skinny)
The jacket zips to the pants almost 360 at the waist. I put these on and rolled/slid around on the carpet and nothing moved.
A step down from the leather-mesh pants is a pair of RevIT Rockefeller with the zipper belt added. I wear these when I can't be at my destination in leather pants.
They are full length cordura and Kevlar on the inside, plus armor over the knees and hips, a strap under the boot holds everything in place. I wear vented leather gloves with palm sliders and I wear SIDI Adventure Rain boots all the time.
Next to the leather armor gear I have some Klim Over-Shell Goretex shells and some Goretex gloves. The best thing about these is that they can be thrown on very quickly if caught in a storm (which I had to do a few days ago!) the pants can be put on without taking boots off. Very important.
They pack down small. These shells zipper over the black leather gear so protection isn't compromised and they breath so I'm not soaked from the inside out.
They can all be crammed into a bag then the frunk with room to spare, then pulled out and put on at the first hint of rain:
And at night everything lights up:
I have some warmnsafe heated liners for cold weather that fit snugly under the leathers.
Cold November rain? Bring it!
Fuzzy
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Never pass gas in a space suit.
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sumo
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You shouldn't use your tongue to stop a fan.
[video=youtube_share;EazT9vJXCX8]https://youtu.be/EazT9vJXCX8[/video]
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For New DCT Owners
Don't be tempted to add a Vista-Cruise throttle lock or one like it to the throttle. They worked great on every bike I've had them on and is the reason I added one to the NC as soon as I got the bike. A throttle lock like it will block the fingers of your right hand's access to the Mode button and the Manual Transmission/Automatic Transmission switch on the front of the right switch pod. I found myself constantly hitting the switches with my left hand. Once I took the Vista-Cruise off it took a little while to get used to the new found freedom of instantly changing the behavior of the transmission. I now keep an O-ring on the throttle grip and a Crampbuster and Omni-cruise in one of my saddlebags.
Don't be tempted to add a Vista-Cruise throttle lock or one like it to the throttle. They worked great on every bike I've had them on and is the reason I added one to the NC as soon as I got the bike. A throttle lock like it will block the fingers of your right hand's access to the Mode button and the Manual Transmission/Automatic Transmission switch on the front of the right switch pod. I found myself constantly hitting the switches with my left hand. Once I took the Vista-Cruise off it took a little while to get used to the new found freedom of instantly changing the behavior of the transmission. I now keep an O-ring on the throttle grip and a Crampbuster and Omni-cruise in one of my saddlebags.
Good call, I was about to get one of those, but got the Kaoko one that works with the BarkBusters instead. It stays out of the way and is easy to engage and works with the heated grips too.
TT had a sale last year where SW Motech, BarkBusters and Kaoko stuff were %20 off and I bought A LOT of stuff that day.
[video=youtube;7W-wX1hanj0]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7W-wX1hanj0[/video]
(I kept the original handlebar weights with my barkbusters too, just removed the brass clip thing and shoved them further in...
)
dduelin
Site Supporter
I use the Go Cruise version of the Omni Cruise. I have a Omni Cruise but only carry it in luggage on trips as a back up. I know what you are saying about this design blocking the Manual/Auto trigger but I just rotate it down and out of the way yet still leave it on the throttle grip for instant use when I want to set it. The plastic Go Cruise has enough grip to hold the throttle w/o slipping but it also easily moves down and out of the way.
Just a couple of links if you're considering sprocket changes....
1. Gearing Commander: Motorcycle Speed, RPM, Chain & Sprockets Calculator - NC700 is in the database, sorry can't find a direct link.
2. NC 700 (all models) 2012-2015 - Honda - STREET - buy some sprockets!
3. See if you can hit 149mph!
What's interesting is this shows that if you upgrade to one of the more popular 150/70 rear tires on the DCT, (eg Michelin Pilot Road 3) you could also upgrade to a 40T rear sprocket to get the speedometer back to within 1mph accuracy at speeds up to 80mph...
1. Gearing Commander: Motorcycle Speed, RPM, Chain & Sprockets Calculator - NC700 is in the database, sorry can't find a direct link.
2. NC 700 (all models) 2012-2015 - Honda - STREET - buy some sprockets!
3. See if you can hit 149mph!
What's interesting is this shows that if you upgrade to one of the more popular 150/70 rear tires on the DCT, (eg Michelin Pilot Road 3) you could also upgrade to a 40T rear sprocket to get the speedometer back to within 1mph accuracy at speeds up to 80mph...
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CRStep
Member
Years ago I was riding my first bike and following a large professional delivery truck packed with furniture. I got a bad feeling and changed lanes, and not three seconds after I did, a huge, heavy armchair (or recliner) fell out of the truck and landed right where I had been. This is an important lesson.
I don't follow large vehicles on principal because I can't see the road and traffic ahead of them and who knows if they're sleeping or not.
Not to mention the turbulence and boring view. Sometimes I pull off and take a back road and will get there when I get there, impatience on a bike will kill you.
netizen
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Ok, I have been trying to eat and drink better when I do long rides. My most recent 930 mile trip from St Louis to Wake Forest, NC took 14 1/2 hours. I lost my camelbak bottle in the first hour of the ride, due to it being topheavy in the Ram mount cup holder. Thank GOODNESS, it didn't hit anyone when is slid out at 80 mph on hwy 64 in East St Louis!!!
I've found a few good links on how to eat and drink from Iron Butt articles and forums that I will share here. They should serve you well on any long ride. I know I was not aware of the affects certain things I was drinking and eating were having on me when I rode. I experienced tiredness.... and actually fell asleep once riding in a large part due to eating wrong.
This first link is to an Iron Butt Magazine article (they should know this stuff!)
http://www.ironbutt.com/ibmagazine/IBMag8-p32-36.pdf
This link is the IBA's Archive of Wisdom on Distance riding
AOW Listing
I voloated #6 on my trip to Arkansas and nearly froze in 48 degree (Mid MAY) weather!!!
These last two links are from the iron butt forum and are discussions on eating and drinking on LD rides
Iron Butt.org General Discussion: Eating and Drinking on the move
Iron Butt.org General Discussion: Tankbag Food Suggestions Wanted
I think if you follow their advice you will see an improvement in how you feel while riding and find yourself more alert, and not having to stop as often (bathroom breaks). These guys do everything they can to maximize their time in the saddle and have learned a great deal on how to do it well.
Even if you don't do any long rides... eating and drinking right will still keep you more comfortable on the bike.
I've found a few good links on how to eat and drink from Iron Butt articles and forums that I will share here. They should serve you well on any long ride. I know I was not aware of the affects certain things I was drinking and eating were having on me when I rode. I experienced tiredness.... and actually fell asleep once riding in a large part due to eating wrong.
This first link is to an Iron Butt Magazine article (they should know this stuff!)
http://www.ironbutt.com/ibmagazine/IBMag8-p32-36.pdf
This link is the IBA's Archive of Wisdom on Distance riding
AOW Listing
I voloated #6 on my trip to Arkansas and nearly froze in 48 degree (Mid MAY) weather!!!
These last two links are from the iron butt forum and are discussions on eating and drinking on LD rides
Iron Butt.org General Discussion: Eating and Drinking on the move
Iron Butt.org General Discussion: Tankbag Food Suggestions Wanted
I think if you follow their advice you will see an improvement in how you feel while riding and find yourself more alert, and not having to stop as often (bathroom breaks). These guys do everything they can to maximize their time in the saddle and have learned a great deal on how to do it well.
Even if you don't do any long rides... eating and drinking right will still keep you more comfortable on the bike.
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I learned to be careful who you follow. There was a hard core Goldwing rider from Texas who had both of his saddlebags refitted for fuel tanks. He had a 1 gallon water cooler mounted to the right passenger peg and a bite valve to drink from it. When he put his feet on the pegs in the morning they didn't come down until all the gas was gone 500 miles later. How did he do this while drinking a gallon of water? He had a Texas catheter with a tube down the left leg of his pants.
What I learned is if that left leg went out straight to the side, you needed to either be in a different lane or rush ahead of him.
What I learned is if that left leg went out straight to the side, you needed to either be in a different lane or rush ahead of him.
Doc True
Site Supporter
On a more seasonal note, I never ride behind boats. To understand why, all you have to do is to remember how many life jackets and cooler lids you've seen on the side of the road. I think this stems from laziness at the end of a day on the lake and not wanting to stow a wet life jacket under the seat. Regardless, I never want to catch a sopping wet life jacket in the face at 70 mph.
OneGun
New Member
Tip for taking the NC on any long road trip... BRING CHAIN LUBE WITH YOU.
If you need it and don't have it, it can be a pain to find. Gear oil will definitely work in a pinch, however. I can tell you this from personal first-hand experience. But like I said, if you're going anywhere beyond 500 miles round trip, bring the can of chain lube with you.
Edit: Part 1 of this tip should have been buy/install your center stand before any long trip as well. Buy this before any other mod.
If you need it and don't have it, it can be a pain to find. Gear oil will definitely work in a pinch, however. I can tell you this from personal first-hand experience. But like I said, if you're going anywhere beyond 500 miles round trip, bring the can of chain lube with you.
Edit: Part 1 of this tip should have been buy/install your center stand before any long trip as well. Buy this before any other mod.
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Give even extra space following a vehicle, especially a larger thing like a truck, when going through an intersection, or wherever it seems like there is the high likelihood of an opposing car trying to turn left.
Even at the "normally approved" distance behind a vehicle, the odds are that eventually you are going to line up exactly in the spot where you are obscured due to parallax angle, and a car coming fast the other way, hoping to whip a quick turn left just after the tail of the car in front of you, passes him by.
As a corollary; don't try to cut a left turn yourself, too soon after a vehicle has passed you from the opposite way, due to the same angle effect. Sometimes the truck can be towing say, an empty flatbed trailer that you miss at first glance, or a Smart car might be tailgating, or *gasp* another motorcyclist riding like a doofus, and tailgating the truck, to make the light.
I won't make any L1, L2, L3 kind of lane position claim as to where you should be in such a situation, because frankly I don't agree with a lot of the doctrine that make statements about this as if you are completely wrong, unless doing it exactly as they tell you. To me it's a fluid environment, that is ever changeable.
Even at the "normally approved" distance behind a vehicle, the odds are that eventually you are going to line up exactly in the spot where you are obscured due to parallax angle, and a car coming fast the other way, hoping to whip a quick turn left just after the tail of the car in front of you, passes him by.
As a corollary; don't try to cut a left turn yourself, too soon after a vehicle has passed you from the opposite way, due to the same angle effect. Sometimes the truck can be towing say, an empty flatbed trailer that you miss at first glance, or a Smart car might be tailgating, or *gasp* another motorcyclist riding like a doofus, and tailgating the truck, to make the light.
I won't make any L1, L2, L3 kind of lane position claim as to where you should be in such a situation, because frankly I don't agree with a lot of the doctrine that make statements about this as if you are completely wrong, unless doing it exactly as they tell you. To me it's a fluid environment, that is ever changeable.
Bubbaslye
Premium Member
Here's an invaluable tip: when you see a driver at an intersection waiting to enter the highway you're on, don't bother looking at him or her; look instead at their front wheel -- a much better indication than anything else of their coming on to the road in front of you. One more recommendation: keep you eyes moving ALL THE TIME -- check ahead, check left, check rearview mirror, check right -- check, check, check!
Theshnizzle
New Member
If I am following a car, I keep my eyes on their drivers side mirror. I can see if they look in the side mirrors or not. Cause if they don't I'm betting they don't spend a lot of time checking their rear view mirrors either and I give them a lot of space or pass them when safe. They have no idea
I am behind them or that I even exist.
I carry a small soft sided cooler in my topbox when I tour. I keep two med sized ziplock bags in there and when I stop for fuel, I half fill the bags with ice and tuck them in. When that ice melts to ice water, I pour it into my water bottle,voila ice cold water. When that water is to warm to drink, I use it to wash my hands or face as a bit of a refresher at stops if I want.
I also carry larger ziplock bags and some wadded up stretch and seal from home. When I stop at Wallymart for a food supply, I can buy salads and fruit salads that come in those bulky clear plastic containers. Then I just dump the salads into the ziplock bags as that takes up way less room in the cooler. The stretch and seal I use to rewrap chicken wraps, or those small slices of cheesecake, anything that has a bulky container that you can discard for space savings.
The small clips you can buy at the dollar store work great to secure a opened carton of milk or soup, chips, peanuts, whatever the small colored clips with the 2 metal whozits to fold back and forth to hold papers together. You can bring several so you can lose one or two, they weigh nothing and take up zero space.
When camping, if a item can't serve more than one purpose, it stays home. After you get back from a trip, dump out your stuff you packed and take a honest look at what you brought, used and hardly used. Put the items in separate piles in order of used during the trip. Helps to streamline and simplify for your next trip. You KNOW what you really need and what you don't.
I have a zillion tips for saving money and space on the road. works for me but as always...YMMV
I am behind them or that I even exist.
I carry a small soft sided cooler in my topbox when I tour. I keep two med sized ziplock bags in there and when I stop for fuel, I half fill the bags with ice and tuck them in. When that ice melts to ice water, I pour it into my water bottle,voila ice cold water. When that water is to warm to drink, I use it to wash my hands or face as a bit of a refresher at stops if I want.
I also carry larger ziplock bags and some wadded up stretch and seal from home. When I stop at Wallymart for a food supply, I can buy salads and fruit salads that come in those bulky clear plastic containers. Then I just dump the salads into the ziplock bags as that takes up way less room in the cooler. The stretch and seal I use to rewrap chicken wraps, or those small slices of cheesecake, anything that has a bulky container that you can discard for space savings.
The small clips you can buy at the dollar store work great to secure a opened carton of milk or soup, chips, peanuts, whatever the small colored clips with the 2 metal whozits to fold back and forth to hold papers together. You can bring several so you can lose one or two, they weigh nothing and take up zero space.
When camping, if a item can't serve more than one purpose, it stays home. After you get back from a trip, dump out your stuff you packed and take a honest look at what you brought, used and hardly used. Put the items in separate piles in order of used during the trip. Helps to streamline and simplify for your next trip. You KNOW what you really need and what you don't.
I have a zillion tips for saving money and space on the road. works for me but as always...YMMV
drdubb
Site Supporter
Start another thread with your tips for trips.
sumo
Site Supporter
To give your bike a good cleaning remove the panels, guards and covers that are easy to remove. For example I remove my windshield, chain guard, lower cowling and left side foot peg. This really opens things up so you can get brushes into places that would otherwise be inaccessible. Plus those parts removed can be soaked and cleaned of every little scuff which is hard to do (especially the lower cowling) when on the bike.
