Question about Valve Clearance and other Maintenance

[turbodieseli4i6]

Many of you have heard me talk about the service/warranty package I purchase with my bike. It was to good to pass up so the dealer does all my maintenance. When it came time for my 8,000 mile service I had asked if I need to bring the bike the night prior. They normally don't like messing with the valves after you have ridden it for an hour. They said and I quote "No need to check the valves at your 8,000 service. We'll do it at the 12,000. There is no use. I've rarely seen anything out of spec at 8,000 miles". Based off many comments here and the commnets of the head maintence guy at the dealer I decided to wait until 12,000 miles. That won't be much longer.

"No need to check the valves at your 8,000 service" Of course, they will save some money by advising that and total BS!

" I've rarely seen anything out of spec at 8,000 miles" At 8,000 and at 18,X00 miles, I had some valves that were a little on the tight side. I wouldn't wait on the first service after knowing how mine were. ymmv

This is one of the reasons I do my own services!

 

[SergeantChuck]

"No need to check the valves at your 8,000 service" Of course, they will save some money by advising that and total BS!

" I've rarely seen anything out of spec at 8,000 miles" At 8,000 and at 18,X00 miles, I had some valves that were a little on the tight side. I wouldn't wait on the first service after knowing how mine were. ymmv

This is one of the reasons I do my own services!

In their defense they were willing to do it. They left it up to me. I had heard so many stories on this forum that most were finding this still within spec that I decided to wait. The bike was going in regardless for the rest of the maintenance. This particular dealer in Searcy Arkansas is probably one of the best I have ever dealt with.

At the same time I understand your point. They'll do anything to save a buck.

 

[ray]

I have a noob question on valve clearance. I realized that trying to "feel" for the correct clearance is quite subjective. I do not have a go-no-go feeler. So what I did was to make sure the 009 and 013 imperial guages couldn't slide in after adjustments, but 008 and 012 could but are hard to slide. This will put it at the loose end of up to +001. Question is, is this acceptable?

 

[davidc83]

Dealers have always told me that engines/valves should be cold when being checked-but isn't this subjective to the ambient temperature of the garage. A garage in Phoenix in the summer without AC is going to be hell of a lot hotter than say a garage in Louisville in the summer without AC (and many don't have AC in the garage area). If this is so, why cant they just allow the engine to cool to the ambient room temp and check the valves-the valves are not going to get any cooler and the metal size is going to change much after ambient temp is reached. Checked with my wife's laser thermometer last night, my engine case was ambient temp in less than 2 hours.

 

[bamamate]

I have a noob question on valve clearance. I realized that trying to "feel" for the correct clearance is quite subjective. I do not have a go-no-go feeler. So what I did was to make sure the 009 and 013 imperial guages couldn't slide in after adjustments, but 008 and 012 could but are hard to slide. This will put it at the loose end of up to +001. Question is, is this acceptable?

That is basically what the go-no-go gauges do. If I remember correctly, don’t have them in front of me, the 008 feeler blade will step up by 2 to 010 for the no-go part which means a tolerance of +001. With what you did using 009 as a no go, and heavy drag on 008 I’d say you are on the tight end of 008 and right on for 007. Someone else may differ with my opinion.

 

[L.B.S.]

Dealers have always told me that engines/valves should be cold when being checked-but isn't this subjective to the ambient temperature of the garage. A garage in Phoenix in the summer without AC is going to be hell of a lot hotter than say a garage in Louisville in the summer without AC (and many don't have AC in the garage area). If this is so, why cant they just allow the engine to cool to the ambient room temp and check the valves-the valves are not going to get any cooler and the metal size is going to change much after ambient temp is reached. Checked with my wife's laser thermometer last night, my engine case was ambient temp in less than 2 hours.

"cold" "hot" "ambient" etc., is all relative and subjective. Honda and most other Manufacturers usually give a specific temperature that should be less than, prior to a valve adjustment, to avoid this. No ambient temp in a shop will be hotter than what is not ok to work with, in an engine.

As long as it is within tolerance of that figure (whatever it is) it's good to go. Having said that, no mechanic wants to be burning their fingers or uncomfortable with hot coolant splashing about while they are trying to do the work, even if the theoretical ok temp is reached, and having bikes sitting around cooling off takes up space, not to mention customers are almost always jonesing to have their bikes out ASAP, badgering the Service dept., seeing their bikes "just sitting there, not being worked on"


...or so I would imagine.

 

[MZ5]

"cold" "hot" "ambient" etc., is all relative and subjective. Honda and most other Manufacturers usually give a specific temperature that should be less than, prior to a valve adjustment, to avoid this. No ambient temp in a shop will be hotter than what is not ok to work with, in an engine...

...or so I would imagine.

Yeah, you would, wouldn't you? And that's certainly true or highly likely for our North American and European members. Unfortunately...

[begin friendly razzing]
Honda specs 95F/35C as the temp below which the engine must be in order to check the valves. Sadly, in the lower Sonoran Desert (southern AZ and southward), and probably in the Mojave as well (lower NV, SE CA, perhaps partly into AZ), garage temps are VERY commonly higher than that. Even at 4 - 5 AM, my garage is often considerably warmer than ambient outside, which is lamentably above 90F for more of the summer than I'd like.
[/end friendly razzing]

I believe we have at least a couple members from Saudi and/or other nearby places, too, don't we? Anyway, yes, most can simply check the valves whenever the engine has cooled off completely and is sitting in the garage. I'm not at all certain that there's a 'big' difference between checking the valves at 115F and 95F. There may or may not be a big difference between checking them at 60F and 95F; I don't really know.

 

[L.B.S.]

"...at 4 - 5 AM, my garage is often considerably warmer than ambient outside, which is lamentably above 90F..."

"...I'm not at all certain that there's a 'big' difference between checking the valves at 115F and 95F..."

See, that's just crazy talk. I am speechless at merely contemplating that, oof.

*shudder*

 

[docb91b]

Thanks again everyone.. I got the manual today and I will be doing the maintenance... Two questions.. Anyone recommend a good online store for parts and fluids? Is it cheaper to pick up at a store (due to shipping)?

Second, when removing the Cylinder head, should I change out the breather plate gasket?

Thanks in advance.

D

 

[L.B.S.]

Thanks again everyone.. I got the manual today and I will be doing the maintenance... Two questions.. Anyone recommend a good online store for parts and fluids? Is it cheaper to pick up at a store (due to shipping)?

Second, when removing the Cylinder head, should I change out the breather plate gasket?

Thanks in advance.

D

Hopefully you mean valve cover and valve cover gasket, lol

I'm not sure if I can guess what a "breather plate" is?

If it's the valve cover gasket, and if it's in good, undamaged shape upon removal, it should be able to be reused very nicely. I've never had to replace a Honda rubber valve cover gasket in all my years.

 

[MZ5]

I agree with L.B.S. re: the valve cover gasket. Nevertheless, I bought a new one of those, and also new seals which go under the 3 bolts that hold the valve cover on, this last time. There was some very slight weeping at a couple points, and I decided to replace them rather than expend the trivial amount of effort necessary to discriminate between actual weeping and just smeared oil from last time.

For parts and fluids sourcing, I always suggest folks check local shops first. One never knows when one will find a shop they really like, or that stocks exactly what one wants, or whatever. That said, my own most-preferred fluid is only available _in my area_ via mail order, so that's what I do. If you're in the same boat, sometimes Amazon is a good place to look.

 

[happy]

My bike is over 12000km and the tuppets are ticking loud.
What's the risk I run if I don't adjust them? Fuel economy only or some more serious engine damage somewhere?
It costs a lot to do in Swiss garages(well over $600) , and I have no time nor patience to DIY.
Your thoughts please?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[kharli]

what can sound like tappets can be the injectors snapping shut. To loose is preferable up to a point than to tight. I am on 40 000 miles and only one inlet valve has been found loose out of spec in three checks.

 

[Antarius]

My bike is over 12000km and the tuppets are ticking loud.
What's the risk I run if I don't adjust them? Fuel economy only or some more serious engine damage somewhere?
It costs a lot to do in Swiss garages(well over $600) , and I have no time nor patience to DIY.
Your thoughts please?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Everytime I've adjusted the valves on my NC they've been tight -- and you don't hear tight valves. I'd be shocked if yours loosened up and got louder. Not that it's impossible, just not what I've seen on this bike.

A loose valve won't hurt much in the short and mid-term, but you will notice a lack of power and rough idle. Same goes for tight valves. Except tight valves usually sound normal and can severely damage your engine if not adjusted.

I'd make some time to adjust it.