• A few people have been scammed on the site, Only use paypal to pay for items for sale by other members. If they will not use paypal, its likely a scam NEVER SEND E-TRANSFERS OF ANY KIND.

Premature chain wear ???

9.jpgThe factory DID O ring chain lasted about 12,000 miles. I replaced it with a DID X ring chain, and it has well pass 12,000 miles on it now. I did not replace the sprockets. I still have my stock sprockets on the bike. I did buy a set of JT sprockets, but have not had to install them yet. I will change chain and sprockets at the same time. X ring chain looks great still, with very little wear. I do not know why the X ring is lasting so much better than the 0 ring chain, but it just is.

Smileyreadingbook.jpg

00.jpg
 
Last edited:
I have a Pro-Oiler that I took off my VFR because the friend I sold the VFR to didn't want it. I'll probably clean it up and put it on the NC. The Pro-Oiler has an electric pump and a fancy computerized metering system that runs off the speedo sensor. It was expensive to buy and complex to install; the instructions are like a novel, but once I got it set up on the VFR it worked very well. I suspect it will work equally well on the NC.

I tested several chain oilers, a few years ago. My conclusions were that it hardly matters what you use to meter the oil. The really important thing is the tubing you use to deliver it. If you use the commonly available clear aquarium tubing, this is a bad choice, the inner diameter is too large. With this too-large tubing, air bubbles can go up it while the bike is parked, which allows oil to drip, the tubing empties out, and the empty tubing will have to be primed again before the oiler will start delivering oil to the chain again. Resulting in high mess and poor performance. What you really need, is much smaller tubing.

I like the looks of the Tutoro, except that I can't tell what kind of tubing it uses. I'm tempted to order one just because it seems like a simple and elegant metering system, but if it has the over-large tubing I would replace it with smaller stuff.
 
Last edited:
Had my 8k service yesterday although I'm just shy of 9k. The mechanic said my chain looked great and barely starting to see some wear on the front sprocket. Looks like I'll easily make it to 12k.

I don't put a lot of effort into keeping my chain clean and oiled. Every other tank and clean it with WD-40 and then I oil. I don't take a brush to it.

I was happy to hear his comments.
 
I've got 22 thousand miles on original chain. Rear sprocket looks good and haven't looked at front. Don't care as now I am changing both with chain regardless --- any advice on chain and sprocket replacements.
 
Chain Wear

I have just over 15,000 miles on my original chain. In the last 1,000 miles I notice a popping sound when starting from a stop. I assume it is the chain. I have keep it cleaned and lubed and am surprised the chain is evidently in need of replacement. I did notice a link or two which seem to be sticking. I think the chain has the proper tension. I this unusual? Or perhaps the original chain is not a high quality one and just has a shorter lifespan.
 
I have just over 15,000 miles on my original chain. In the last 1,000 miles I notice a popping sound when starting from a stop. I assume it is the chain. I have keep it cleaned and lubed and am surprised the chain is evidently in need of replacement. I did notice a link or two which seem to be sticking. I think the chain has the proper tension. I this unusual? Or perhaps the original chain is not a high quality one and just has a shorter lifespan.

The OEM chain is mediocre quality. Yours sounds like it lived a typical lifespan and is dying the usual way, with tight links and probably "stretching". I cleaned mine maybe twice and kept it moderately lubed, and it hit the wear limit at 17,000 miles. Most original chains don't last that long.
 
I replaced the OEM chain on my 2012 NC700X at 13,500 miles because of kinking links. The slack never went out of the 30-40 mm range specified in the manual. Almost all the mileage was on paved roads and in dry weather. I cleaned the chain with Pro Honda chain cleaner and lubed with PJ1 Blue Label chain lube every 1000 miles, or whenever it looked dirty. I expected the chain to last longer, and was blaming my maintenance and the products I use. Reading this thread, I guess my experience is typical and there is no need to switch the cleaner or the lube. The new chain is from RK. I have no basis for it, but I'm hoping the RK chain will last longer.
 
I got the same 10-12k out of my OEM chain if I recall. OEM chains always seem to just "go." Everything is fine and the moment they begin to stretch, it's game over.

The NC700 in particular uses a lightweight chain (520 pitch) compared to other street bikes (due to power output) and that will absolutely limit it's life.

Bottom line, buy a quality chain (like a high end DID, not OEM) and you'll go well beyond 12k. I'm at 20-23k on my second chain (DID ERV-3) and I ride year round, wet or dry, and quite honestly -- I almost never clean it or lube it. I'd venture to guess every 3-5000 miles, at best.
 
I have the Pro-Oiler (with GPS module) on my 2015 NC750XD and I love it. I use normal car engine oil in the system so while riding all dirt flies off immediately. Just did 2000 miles so no visible wear yet.

Sent by Motorola Moto G 4G
 
Back
Top