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New '16 DCT Owner... minor question

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d'milan

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Hello all,

New owner of a 2016 NC700 DCT / first post here.

Had lots of bikes over the years, many BMWs, thought to give the NC a whirl.
I expect the bike will be a fine commuter, have enough power for my pruposes, and I'm curious to live with the DCT. I will miss my cruise control on the slab however.

The bike should be ready in a week or 2. They had to order one in and I'm having them fit the heated grips and center stand.

I'm taking a RAM Ball Mount that replaces one of the handlebar clamp bolts with me to the dealer to pick up the bike. Found the idea here on the site. Plenty good for my needs, simple and inexpensive. Coming home the 120 miles via backroads and I want my Zumo GPS with me for the ride.

I don't really know anybody in service, just the salesman... so I'll just quick install it myself in the lot.

If anyone would be so kind... a quick question, well 2 really.

I'll need to take tools with me.
I'll know the size of the RAM bolt fitting as I'll have it already in my possession. Question is, can anyone tell me the fitting size of the OEM handlebar clamp bolt / Torx / allen / mm and the recommended torque of the bolt?

Thanks
d'milan
 
The bolts that hold the bars on are 12 mm.
I do not know the torque; I don't think it is in the owner's manual.
I have ordered the third party manual off eBay but do not have it yet.
 
The proper procedure is to loosen the rear clamp bolt first, then the front one. Install the Ram ball bolt and tighten the front bolt to a value less than torque value, then the rear one likewise, torque the front one, torque the rear one.

Congratulations on the new NC!
 
Thanks guys,

So they're just a plain old 12mm hex head bolt, not a torx or allen, and require 22NM of torque.

Got it

Probably will purchase a repair manual too.
And a fender extender
and a Radiator guard
and handguards
and a different windscreen

Seems to me, I've farkled too many bikes already...

Thanks
 
Make sure that they put in the tool kit and all the contents.
Dealers have a knack of forgetting to put it in.
 
DCTFAN said:
Make sure that they put in the tool kit and all the contents.
Dealers have a knack of forgetting to put it in.
Click to expand...

Don't make the guy think he's going to get something for a "tool kit" and then be angry with the dealer when he doesn't, lol! :eek:


The Owner's manual is sometimes forgotten or hidden in the secret compartment in the bottom of the trunk, though.
 
Let me know if you need help. I have the 2016 repair manual, fitted the Puig fender extender, R&G radiator guard and Barkbuster handguards.

I've already fitted most of all that and more! Most 2015 parts will fit as long as they don't have any interaction with the new plastics.

2015 windscreens won't fit obviously, CalSci makes some 2016 ones: Honda NC700X / NC700S Windshields

Unknown if they are compatible with handguards. I've got the BarkBuster Storms which I really like and fit will with the bike's aesthetics.
 
Oh and as far as the DCT goes, you'll get used to it. I have almost 400 miles on mine now. I am enjoying it more than a manual so far.

The only 'complaint' I have, if you can call it that, is that at super low speeds it's a bit touchy. I'm talking MSF style box figure 8's / 225 degree turns and making the bike turn inside it's advertised radius of 3m and all that fun stuff you rarely ever do unless you're being tested / showing off. Have to drag the rear brake more against the low end torque, which I'm not used to. 'Normal' parking lot maneuvers it's just fine. I'd be curious as to how one of those cam throttle tubes like the Throttle Tamer works with DCT, but I see no real reason to change it.

Now the best part about DCT:

Yesterday I was riding behind a truck with a trailer and stuff started falling out, I hit the brakes hard, swerved, then gunned it because I didn't want to get rear ended. The DCT didn't miss a beat and downshifted for me while I braked/evaded, and when I rolled on hard (WOT) it figured out I wanted to move fast and let the RPM hit 5000 before shifting up. This was all in D mode.
 
supertux1 said:
Let me know if you need help. I have the 2016 repair manual, fitted the Puig fender extender, R&G radiator guard and Barkbuster handguards.

I've already fitted most of all that and more! Most 2015 parts will fit as long as they don't have any interaction with the new plastics.

2015 windscreens won't fit obviously, CalSci makes some 2016 ones: Honda NC700X / NC700S Windshields

Unknown if they are compatible with handguards. I've got the BarkBuster Storms which I really like and fit will with the bike's aesthetics.
Click to expand...


Thanks


I just assumed that the screen mount on the 2016 would be the same as the earlier years.
Checked out the Calsci link and it looks like the mount area is different.
Nuts
I was probably going to try a Touring MRA with spoiler. I find spoilers to be very effective and I like the looks or the MRA.
Nuts.

Also, I was thinking PUIG or Pyramid Fenda Extenda... whichever is larger... Anybody know?

R & G Radiator Guard was on my list as well.

As for the Handguards, I was thinking the OEM Honda units... Really will be used for weather protection mainly... I'll have to see what they each look like and what they cost.
I'll check out the Storms....


Been thinking about luggage too.
On other bikes, I depend on a tank bag and often a top case. With the frunk... I'm thinking that it will double duty... and I wont need a tankbag or top case.
Maybe just one of those handlebar bags for tolls, earplugs, gloves and the like.

I'll consider a set of side cases down the road.
Meanwhile I still have 2010 GS with 3 Vario Cases to cover large load cargo situations.

As I think I mentioned earlier, I have owned quite a few BMWs in the past 15 years.
Just recently I owned a 2015 R1200GS Watercooled, now departed.
A decent bike for sure in many ways... annoyed me in many other ways.
Seemed like it had drank a few too many Red Bulls for my liking....
I'm curious to see how I get along with the NC7...looking for something capable and modern, but a bit more relaxed.

The bike that got me started on using and enjoying motorcycles as transportation, not purely recreati9n was my Hoda PC800 (Pacific Coast) back in the late 90s.
In a way, sort of, I see the NC7 as an evolution of the PC800.

TY
Dave / d'milan
 
supertux1 said:
Oh and as far as the DCT goes, you'll get used to it. I have almost 400 miles on mine now. I am enjoying it more than a manual so far.

The only 'complaint' I have, if you can call it that, is that at super low speeds it's a bit touchy. I'm talking MSF style box figure 8's / 225 degree turns and making the bike turn inside it's advertised radius of 3m and all that fun stuff you rarely ever do unless you're being tested / showing off. Have to drag the rear brake more against the low end torque, which I'm not used to. 'Normal' parking lot maneuvers it's just fine. I'd be curious as to how one of those cam throttle tubes like the Throttle Tamer works with DCT, but I see no real reason to change it.

Now the best part about DCT:

Yesterday I was riding behind a truck with a trailer and stuff started falling out, I hit the brakes hard, swerved, then gunned it because I didn't want to get rear ended. The DCT didn't miss a beat and downshifted for me while I braked/evaded, and when I rolled on hard (WOT) it figured out I wanted to move fast and let the RPM hit 5000 before shifting up. This was all in D mode.
Click to expand...


I replied yesterday...hmmm
Thought I saw moderators will review or sum such. Not here now, maybe I hit the wrong button, I'll try to remember what I wrote.

Bummed to hear that the 2016 screen mount is different than the earlier version.
I'm quite sure that the screen on the 2016 won't be enough for my liking. Was going to install an MRA Touring Screen w-spoiler. Guess that won't fit on the '16. Nuts.
Appreciate the link to Cal-Sci, but a big flat screen won't git 'er done for me.
After years of searching for screens for various bikes I have found that for me either the screen must have a flip at the top, or a spoiler or Laminar lip that pushes the air flow up and above my helmet(Visor up), while still being low enough that I can look over it.

As for the front fender extender , I was thinking Puig or Pyramid Fenda Extenda. Does anyone know which is longer? That'd be the one I'd want.

R & G Radiator Guard should do for my purposes.

Handguards.. I'll want them for weather protection. Was thinking OEM Honda, but I'll check out the Storms. Size, shape and price will be my guide.

The frunk on the NC7 will do double duty. I usually have a tank bag and a top-case on my bikes at all time. The frunk should cover both needs. Maybe a handlebar cross bag of some sort for toll $, ear plugs, gloves etc.

As for side bags... That'll be down the road.sometime, For now, I still have my 2010 R1200GS with all 3 Vario Cases for when I need to carry lots of cargo.


As for the DCT, I be curious to see how it is to live with in the real world, day in and day out.
In general I expect the bike to be more easy going that most of those that I've owned over that past 15 years.
In fact, I recently owned a 2015 R1200GS watercooled. Decent bike for sure, but for me, more annoyances than charms.
Felt like it had drank too many Red Bulls...

Should have the NC7 in a week or 2.

Thanks all.
 
d'milan said:
I replied yesterday...hmmm
Thought I saw moderators will review or sum such. Not here now, maybe I hit the wrong button, I'll try to remember what I wrote.

Bummed to hear that the 2016 screen mount is different than the earlier version.
I'm quite sure that the screen on the 2016 won't be enough for my liking. Was going to install an MRA Touring Screen w-spoiler. Guess that won't fit on the '16. Nuts.
Appreciate the link to Cal-Sci, but a big flat screen won't git 'er done for me.
After years of searching for screens for various bikes I have found that for me either the screen must have a flip at the top, or a spoiler or Laminar lip that pushes the air flow up and above my helmet(Visor up), while still being low enough that I can look over it.

As for the front fender extender , I was thinking Puig or Pyramid Fenda Extenda. Does anyone know which is longer? That'd be the one I'd want.

R & G Radiator Guard should do for my purposes.

Handguards.. I'll want them for weather protection. Was thinking OEM Honda, but I'll check out the Storms. Size, shape and price will be my guide.

The frunk on the NC7 will do double duty. I usually have a tank bag and a top-case on my bikes at all time. The frunk should cover both needs. Maybe a handlebar cross bag of some sort for toll $, ear plugs, gloves etc.

As for side bags... That'll be down the road.sometime, For now, I still have my 2010 R1200GS with all 3 Vario Cases for when I need to carry lots of cargo.


As for the DCT, I be curious to see how it is to live with in the real world, day in and day out.
In general I expect the bike to be more easy going that most of those that I've owned over that past 15 years.
In fact, I recently owned a 2015 R1200GS watercooled. Decent bike for sure, but for me, more annoyances than charms.
Felt like it had drank too many Red Bulls...

Should have the NC7 in a week or 2.

Thanks all.
Click to expand...

I used the Puig fenders on the front and rear because they look OEM once you peel off the branding stickers.
Same reason I went for the Barkbuster Storms as opposed to the other one that says 'BARKBUSTERS' in all white, peeled off the 'Storm' sticker.
I also painted the aluminum bar on the guards with black epoxy paint.

There's a part in most front fender extender instructions where it says to DRILL through your existing fender to install support 'clips' or 'screws.'
I didn't do that, looks ugly and scratchy. I just used plenty of the black/white JB-Weld epoxy between the parts. Dries grey so if any squeezes out between the seams its not noticeable.
 
LiveInTheMoment said:
Any idea which radiator guard fits on the 2016 model?
Click to expand...

I'm going to order some parts today.

Supertux1 mentioned that he has installed an R & G Radiator Guard and Puig Fender extender.
I'm assuming that the 2012-2015 Extenders and Radiator Guard will fit the 2016 version.

Think I'll also order an MRA Sport Windscreen Spoiler. I'm quite sure the OEM, although larger than on earlier years, will still direct too much airflow at my helmet and therefore be too noisy for my liking.

I"ll order today.. the ride home will be a couple hundred miles and I'd like to have the spoiler installed.

d'milan
 
supertux1 said:
Oh and as far as the DCT goes, you'll get used to it. I have almost 400 miles on mine now. I am enjoying it more than a manual so far.

The only 'complaint' I have, if you can call it that, is that at super low speeds it's a bit touchy. I'm talking MSF style box figure 8's / 225 degree turns and making the bike turn inside it's advertised radius of 3m and all that fun stuff you rarely ever do unless you're being tested / showing off. Have to drag the rear brake more against the low end torque, which I'm not used to. 'Normal' parking lot maneuvers it's just fine. I'd be curious as to how one of those cam throttle tubes like the Throttle Tamer works with DCT, but I see no real reason to change it.
Click to expand...

I just got the '16 DCT and I have to agree on this. Doing tight u-turns freaks me out because it can be a bit touchy, like you said. Was in a situation yesterday where I was parking on the side of a street...the street was curved on a somewhat steep incline, and, of course on a camber. When it came time to leave, had to sweat it out as I tried to very slowly turn the throttle so I could make the u-turn on this steep, curved road. Almost ended up crashing into the other side of the road and / or dropping it. My hb very calmly trying to coach me on the headset made me sweat. I have gone many times to do parking lot practice but for some reason, in real-life situations, I freeze up & have a hard time relaxing my hand...this is something I def need to get used to.
 
LiveInTheMoment said:
I just got the '16 DCT and I have to agree on this. Doing tight u-turns freaks me out because it can be a bit touchy, like you said. Was in a situation yesterday where I was parking on the side of a street...the street was curved on a somewhat steep incline, and, of course on a camber. When it came time to leave, had to sweat it out as I tried to very slowly turn the throttle so I could make the u-turn on this steep, curved road. Almost ended up crashing into the other side of the road and / or dropping it. My hb very calmly trying to coach me on the headset made me sweat. I have gone many times to do parking lot practice but for some reason, in real-life situations, I freeze up & have a hard time relaxing my hand...this is something I def need to get used to.
Click to expand...

One thing I found that helps is to take as much play out of the throttle cable as you can with the adjustment nut under the grip so you can apply minimal throttle and get moving. Factory spec is something like 2-6mm of movement, go for the low number on the DCT. Slow way down before your turn and have the bike throttle just open enough to pull you through it and not coast.

Also remember these two things: 1. head and eyes UP and crank your head around to look where you want to go. 2. Counterweight, move a butt cheek off the seat is all you need.

I have this left turn I have to do every day to get on a ramp from a standstill, it's a hairpin turn that closes in on itself then opens back up to form a merge ramp. It's precisely the same maneuver as that 225 degree box turn figure 8 they make you do in MSF.
 
In the very tight, slow turns with a DCT or when ALMOST stopping at a stop sign, riding the rear brake a bit at the slow speed softens the engage/disengage "bumps", making things much smoother.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
PadrePoint said:
In the very tight, slow turns with a DCT or when ALMOST stopping at a stop sign, riding the rear brake a bit at the slow speed softens the engage/disengage "bumps", making things much smoother.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

My 2016 doesn't have any noticeable low speed clutch jitter like that. Sometimes when I am about a car length behind another stopped vehicle at a light or sign, I can creep forward so slowly that I have to work the bars a little to stay upright. There's no surging of power and no need to drag the brake. I can creep along in stop and go rush hour traffic without ever stopping or putting a foot down... Or braking. All throttle and steering. Maybe this is the new DCT?
 
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