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NC700X Hard to Start Intermittently

I have recently encountered this issue as well. I don't have the numbers to back it up, but when it started, I suspected the battery and ended up replacing it. I've left the new battery on a trickle charger 2 or 3 nights before starting, and it has still run into this issue. I feel like it has to be something with the fuel injection, whether it be a plugged/fouled injector, or a lack of proper choking. I'm in Minnesota, and the problem started in July, long before we start dealing with cold temperatures, so I'm not sure what's going on.

Might have to just suck it up and bring it into the dealer. I don't want to, but I'm worried the damn thing isn't going to start for me one of these days.
 
fallenturtles;191780 Might have to just suck it up and bring it into the dealer. I don't want to said:
Problem is if it's intermittent.......the dealer has to experience the problem and be able to see the sensor error. ( assuming it is a fuel injection problem).......... That( error) is what I am trying to catch right now.

Plus some of the other members had the problem resolve itself on it's own ??????
 
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My hard starting or long crank is intermittent for now. Lastest theory is a weak battery.
Trying a little testing and trial and error. So far if I run the battery down ( on purpose) slightly and leave the bike sit the long crank will occur. If I leave the bike a trickle charger during storage......Starting issue has NOT occured.

On the trickle charger cranking speed is noticeably higher. Cranking voltage is obviously higher as well.

At this point it needs a battery just on age and performance.........but.........will nurse this one along and really try to confirm the battery is the issue, with some data points.

* Note.........at this point I will carry a small jump pack just in case the battery does the sudden death trick in the middle of no where.
 
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Mine does this every now and then. Does it more say, on a Monday if i didn't ride during the weekend. I don't like Mondays either. Anyways, mine is a 2012 with the original battery, figured it's just a weak/dying cell.
 
Another update:

intermittent long crank is still occurring even witha fully charged battery. During the long crank if the throttle is opened slightly the engine fires immediately. First thought is the idle air controller is sticking. Once the engine fires idle is normal and long crank does not occur the rest of the day.

When time allows will remove and inspect and clean the idle air controller. The part is near $100 so confirmation of the true cause is needed before replacing. The idle air controller is on the throttle body. It allows a measured amount of air in to maintain the idle. By opening the throttle slightly and the engine fires is the clue the proper amount of air is not passing through the controller during initial cranking.
 
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you may have a duff spark plug.
take one out and see if you have a good spark as you turn the engine over.
I've had new spark plugs only lasting a couple hundreds miles then they don't work...

I've had trouble with a fairly new Tohatsu outboard engine , . pulled the carb and cleaned, checked all connections, spark plugs [2] looked good and seemed to spark. took it to a mechanic and he asked if I changed the plugs, I said no and he said it's their standard procedure to start there , so $10 and 2 new plugs later it runs like a champ.
 
I'm back babies!

So my issue has not gone away, and for the first time I felt like my engine went from "hard start" to "wouldn't start." I tried cranking the starter 5-6 times, and while it did finally get going, it triggered a flashing check engine light. Tried again a few days later, and it had the same rough start, but it did start up with no light this time.

I'm going to try a filter change. I've been irresponsible and not had mine replaced and it's around 20k miles. There isn't much to foul up an air filter around here, so I haven't worried about it much, but I need to keep trying stuff.

Can I safely assume this issue remains a mystery to everybody?
 
If the bike runs well once it's started, especially with brisk acceleration, then the air filter has nothing to do with the hard starting problem. Still, it can't hurt to change it.

If you can get the MIL to stay on, reading the code might help with the diagnosis. If the MIL is on with the engine running, put the bike in neutral and lower the sidestand. Count the long and short flashes on the light to determine the fault code.
 
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Yes mine still does long crank on occasion..........usually after it sits with no use.
Mine has a new battery..........old one was still good but original.
It did remove and check the idle air control valve .......after which the long crank did not occur for aleast 45 days.
I also checked the plugs that look perfect ( except excessive gap) and ignoring the shop manual adjusted the spark gap back into spec. I did the air controller thing and plugs at the same time. Which again is a mistake if your trying to isolate a cause or find a root cause.

If mine does not start in the first 3-5 seconds of cranking........I open the throttle just slightly (1/8 turn) and it always fires up.
 
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Last May, I purchased a leftover 2014 with zero miles. Love the bike but the last few days I've had the same issues, and the very 1st video is exactly what my bike is doing. The bike normally starts as soon as I hit the button. The last couple days it started the cranking but take a while to start. After it starts it has a very rough idle and bogs down when I give it the gas. If I go back a little while later its seems to clear up. I wonder if it could be something in my tank? I think I've found the release valve underneath to drain the fuel. Is there another inline filter I can check between the tank and motor? I can not find one in the manual. If I fill the tank and put in FE cleaner could that help clean out any gunk?

The bike only has 1400 miles on it so I do not think its mechanical. I keep in a shed so its out of the weather, but last year I did add some gas stabilizer. Its been at least two fill ups since the season started but I wonder If I jacked something up. Thoughts?
 
^^^^^^^^^^
There is no in line filter after the in tank pump.
There are small screens at the injector inlets.........if they were plugged I don’t think it would be intermittent problem.
 
Thanks for the info. How about this. After I turn the bike on, right after the fuel pump starts up, I hear a small zap or buzz like noise come from the front of the bike. Sounds like its down around the exhaust headers. Is that the starter relay switch kicking in? I do not recall hearing that noise before.
 
Just wondering, when you fill up the bike; how high are you filling the bike in the filler neck. I was at a local motorcycle shop and saw numerous stickers on bikes (which i had not seen before), stating 'do not overfill the bike in the filler neck. Doing so could result in hard starting/long cranking'.....If over filling is causing some kind of vapor lock in the system, check your fuel overflow tube (under the bike) and see if there is any fuel in the line, if so, empty and see what happens..
 
Thanks for the info. How about this. After I turn the bike on, right after the fuel pump starts up, I hear a small zap or buzz like noise come from the front of the bike. Sounds like its down around the exhaust headers. Is that the starter relay switch kicking in? I do not recall hearing that noise before.


That noise is normal............the one from the front is the IAC ( idle air control valve) cycling. Shop manual make a reference to that buzz. The IAC is attached to the throttle body.
 
So... I found this thread last night because I've been having the same issue for the last couple of weeks. Yesterday, I got stranded at work - not fun. I called out the breakdown truck and he looked at a few things and said everything looked fine. I mentioned that I hadn't heard the fuel pump whirring when I turned the key so he raised the fuel filler cover / rear seat, looked down where the wires disappear towards the rear light cluster, stuck the end of a screwdriver down and gave it a couple of taps - hey presto! Started straight away after that.

He said that the fuel pump solenoid may be a little sticky, but should be simple enough to replace myself when I get the bike home. I hope that helps someone else. I can provide a picture or video later if anyone wants a better description.
 
Just wondering, when you fill up the bike; how high are you filling the bike in the filler neck. I was at a local motorcycle shop and saw numerous stickers on bikes (which i had not seen before), stating 'do not overfill the bike in the filler neck. Doing so could result in hard starting/long cranking'.....If over filling is causing some kind of vapor lock in the system, check your fuel overflow tube (under the bike) and see if there is any fuel in the line, if so, empty and see what happens..

I believe the problems being referenced from over filling would be around the evap system... charcoal canister gets "flooded" (probably wrong term)...

The charcoal canisters is plumbed to dump fumes back into the engine, and if the computer can't compensate for that your fuel air mix is off...
 
That noise is normal............the one from the front is the IAC ( idle air control valve) cycling. Shop manual make a reference to that buzz. The IAC is attached to the throttle body.

Thanks Showkey. Yup that is the noise.

I have spark so I figure it has to bee fuel, right? The pump and solenoid seem to be working. I only had a gallon on gas in it, So I filled out the tank and added some fuel injection cleaner. I wonder if its the gas. Last fill up was April 29th. Weather kinda got crappy on the east coast. I recall reading somewhere that Ethanol breaks down after a few weeks. My fingers are crossed.
 
Thanks Showkey. Yup that is the noise.

I have spark so I figure it has to bee fuel, right? The pump and solenoid seem to be working. I only had a gallon on gas in it, So I filled out the tank and added some fuel injection cleaner. I wonder if its the gas. Last fill up was April 29th. Weather kinda got crappy on the east coast. I recall reading somewhere that Ethanol breaks down after a few weeks. My fingers are crossed.

It does sound like it might be the gas, not enough quality octane to spark... try running some Stabile through as well, the 360 version of it...
what's the red digital display? thermometer?
 
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