• A few people have been scammed on the site, Only use paypal to pay for items for sale by other members. If they will not use paypal, its likely a scam NEVER SEND E-TRANSFERS OF ANY KIND.

LED: things I learned today

Thanks Brillot2000...

I think I'll wait until there's a drop in LED replacement for the headlight bulb. Right now, it looks like there's too much other weirdness going on.
You need a "kit" to do this?

I'm disgusted with the tail light experience. You're not really supposed to have several parts left over when you finish something like that, and I do.

Well that all depends, did you remove the Blink Fluid Reservoir when were in there replacing the taillight bulb?

Blinker-Fluid.jpg

In the meantime, you should top off the Headlight fluid to the get the headlight brighter.

142780d1242764598-blinker-fluid-sale-gallery_2_63_3664.jpg
 
Thanks Brillot2000...

I think I'll wait until there's a drop in LED replacement for the headlight bulb. Right now, it looks like there's too much other weirdness going on.
You need a "kit" to do this?

The LED H4 Bulbs that I recommended is a drop in replacement. The LED Array Chip needs the "Ballast" to operate. The ballast handles all the currents to both the LED Chips and controls the cooling fan on the back of the heat-sink.

When I said "Kit", I meant to say that these are usually sold in pairs. Buy the kit from Amazon and you will mostly get 2 of them. You use one and sell the other. Replacement H4 LED Bulb - Set of 2.

Come on down to me place, I am located near to the Burbank Airport and I will install it for you. I can guaranty you that there will not be any spare parts leftover other than the halogen bulb we replaced.

PM me if you would like to do that on a weekend here soon.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2867.jpg
    IMG_2867.jpg
    85 KB · Views: 266
  • IMG_2879.jpg
    IMG_2879.jpg
    89.1 KB · Views: 266
I bought exactly the ones you recommended.
They seem very high quality.

Here's today's problem:

I have the box of very fine lights.
I have the NC in the shade by my work bench.
Now What?
that little rubber boot thing around the installed OEM light doesn't come off.
I've pulled on the little rubber tab with needle nose...and it ain't goin' anywhere...

What comes out first? the existing light or that rubber boot thang?
 
OK... got the boot to come back..but it looks like the bulb is holding the boot on at the center..... hmm....
I've seen pictures of the metal "clip" thing under it....and I can see mine now....but.... same deal.. I have no clue how it comes off.

I am reluctant to use wire cutters to destroy it to get it off... that would work but leave me with no clip... I presume the clip does more than just secure the rubber boot?
 
well the right side of the clip let go without wire cutters ...that's a good thing...
now the light is just sort of hanging there....
It surprises me that it's soo difficult to get out.... car lights are not like that... I change those on our cars when needed....
hmm.... still missing something ...
I'll go out and tug on it (gently and randomly) and see if I can learn anything from that.
 
documenting like this helps... keeps me focused.... makes me go slower... those are also good things.


Nah... random tugging suggest you'd have to break off the bulb to get it out now.

I sense I have done something in the wrong order. when does the wiring come off the back of the bulb? first?

If I give up now... I could probably get the metal clip to "clip" again and put the rubber boot back.
That would at least get me back to what I had.... hmm.... I'd like to avoid that part where I break it and can't go back. I can always order another head light assembly I suppose... hmmmm....

well not time to back track yet. I think I'll go and tug on it randomly and try to learn something else...
 
Last edited:
darn... back tracking is now not possible...as the clip will not go back to what it was.... hmmm.... I wonder why....

OK... lets go forward then.... maybe the wires come off the back of the bulb now.... seems like that would have been easier to do when the clip was in place.... live and learn!
 
OK... time to reverse course... the goal now is to get the clip to go back the way it was.
Once that's done, seems like the boot will go back on...and then it will be... ridable.. no loss....

couldn't go backwards...so forward....once the light bulb cleared the housing the whole thing fell down and out of the beek... that's a good thing....


- looks like the rubber boot thing has to go on the bulb BEFORE you put it back in the housing....
the new bulb larger.... hmmm... wonder how that works....
 
Last edited:
had to cut the rubber boot thing some because the new LED bulb is considerably larger.
I suppose it's good to know that others have done this successfully.

How does it hold up in the rain? Given that the fan attached to the bulb is exposed?

hmmm.... now...it's time to go and put it all back together...
I note that taking things apart is usually easier than putting them back together.... this hasn't been easy so far... so confidence is not high.
 
it's always the order of things that gets me...

put the rubber boot on the light first? wait? well, for better or worse, here goes... time to go and learn from experience....
(that is the essence of "Zen", I read.)
 
that was actually a very pleasant "zen" lesson.

I put the old bulb back in the 3-tab fitting first...without any wires...and used the metal "clip" to secure it. That explained a lot about how the device works. I then removed the clip and the original bulb.

Next, I put the new bulb in taking care to line up the three metal tabs and putting the metal clip between the bulb and the rubber boot. I realize now the three metal tabs make it impossible to put the bulb in updside down.
The clip went on easily once all three tabs seated in their metal, round, frame.

the rubber boot went on easily and sealed on its fitting.

I plugged in the light, turned the key on, and it worked.! (angelic chorus sound here.)

all that remains is to zip tie down the square "ballast" that serves the new light.

I realize that this new bulb will now make it MUCH easier to tap into the headlight wiring for AUX lights should I ever put any on.
 
Okay, concerning the Cyclops H4 3800 Lumen hi/low LED headlight module that I showed Beemerphile (Lee) went I stopped by his shop on the way from Ft. Lauderdale to Vogel State Park, Ga.

I just realized that installing this LED headlight module is much, much more easy that I thought and that the bulb retaining clip should not a problem....as the led array twist locks out of the 3 prong backing plate. :)

I realize now in my haste to leave work and get everything packed up for the ride up to the Fall Gathering at Vogel, I had forgot the phone call I had made the seller who had talked me through this a couple of weeks prior showing up at Lee's. I did try to mount it one Saturday but did not remove the array and thus the cooling element proved to be a great obstacle that I gave up.

Now that I have realized how to do it, I will try it in a few days and report back.
 
epilogue: It all works... The ballest square thing wanted to rest up and under the main instrument panel, so I gently zip tied it there. the cables don't rub on anything when I turn full right/left.

I wonder if I'll like how it looks at night?
Will it last longer than an incandescent?
If I leave the bike turned on...will the battery drain more slowly?

Mostly I'm hoping that it will be more reliable than incandescent. That was really the point of all this. I want
 
What a fun thread.

Call me lazy or what! I have never had to replace a burned out bulb on a motorcycle that I can remember. Maybe that is because there was no drama. But I can assure you it can't have been more than once or twice and I put 250k miles on the lot of them. The bulbs seem to last as long as the motors. And these LEDs are not any brighter. (maybe the headlights)
I don't really get it.
Needing more power? On all the sail boats one makes a written load list with "in" and "out" to determine loads wanted or needed. Since the system on the NC is "full-on" all the time what is the point? (except for Beems Ex-NC of course).

Maybe it is just "cool". :cool:

PS people are still testing these amazing long-lasting bulbs. So far as I have read is no, they really don't last as long as they say they will. Somehow reality has reduced their true life expectancy. And, as the technology is advancing faster than the true life of the bulbs can be tested, it is just hype.

Now when someone puts my 3800 lumen $25 flashlight head into a mountable housing that does not run the price to around $300 ( or more!!!!) I will revisit LEDs. But since "they can" they charge that for a $50 item. Shame on them, and those that support that robbery.
 
Last edited:
Now that I have realized how to do it, I will try it in a few days and report back.

I'm looking forward to hearing about it. I did have to cut the rubber boot (make it's center bigger). It's not water tight to 3 atmospheres, but it will serve.
 
What a fun thread.

Call me lazy or what! I have never had to replace a burned out bulb on a motorcycle that I can remember. Maybe that is because there was no drama. But I can assure you it can't have been more than once or twice and I put 250k miles on the lot of them. The bulbs seem to last as long as the motors. And these LEDs are not any brighter. (maybe the headlights)
I don't really get it.
Needing more power? On all the sail boats one makes a written load list with "in" and "out" to determine loads wanted or needed. Since the system on the NC is "full-on" all the time what is the point? (except for Beems Ex-NC of course).

Maybe it is just "cool". :cool:

I hope it was a fun thread. A good mini drama is instructive or at least entertaining.

As for the lights, I do realize the modern incandescents probably would last as long as the motorcycle. I will concede that there really isn't a huge benefit. It's a little brighter, I hope, but I haven't compared "lumens" between them. I like the instant off/on effect, and I would say the tail light is a lot shows up better, but I have no hard data to support that.

The headlight seems like the best one to convert to LED since it is all the time, and should it fail, it would cause the biggest problem!
If that one is more reliable, then it is worth it.

Mostly, I think it's just a simple desire to upgrade with something slightly higher tech. It's not all that expensive as Farkles go.

The best thing to come out of it is that I now look on the headlight as a bulb I could change out on the road if I had to.
The tailight is a pain, but I have two back there now, so if the original fails, I won't care.
 
OK... time to reverse course... the goal now is to get the clip to go back the way it was.
Once that's done, seems like the boot will go back on...and then it will be... ridable.. no loss....

couldn't go backwards...so forward....once the light bulb cleared the housing the whole thing fell down and out of the beek... that's a good thing....


- looks like the rubber boot thing has to go on the bulb BEFORE you put it back in the housing....
the new bulb larger.... hmmm... wonder how that works....

Which LED Bulb did you purchase? Was it the one that I recommended to you?

If it was, all you would have to do is force the center of rubber dust cover around the bulb center insert's outer diameter.

IMG_4141.jpg

The center insert comes off with only a 1/4 turn from the stalk.

H4RubberBoot.jpg

Once the insert is installed, then you have to install the LED stalk in to the insert. Once fully seated, then turn it a 1/4 turn to lock it into position.

I hope this helps, however it might be too late now. Disregard if you like.
 
epilogue: It all works... The ballest square thing wanted to rest up and under the main instrument panel, so I gently zip tied it there. the cables don't rub on anything when I turn full right/left.

I wonder if I'll like how it looks at night?
Will it last longer than an incandescent?
If I leave the bike turned on...will the battery drain more slowly?

Mostly I'm hoping that it will be more reliable than incandescent. That was really the point of all this. I want

I've had my for several months now and it is still looking without any issues. I also installed one on Sparky too. I like the 6000° Kelvin light temperature over the 2700° K of the stock halogen bulb.

To Answer Your Questions:

1. You will see an improvement and there would be as many shadows or darks spots on items on the ground.

2. If the quality of the product is there, then it should last about 30,000 hrs (3.4 years) of being continuously on.

3. The unit that I use is about 30W in either mode of operation, which is half of the halogen bulb. It should theoretically take twice as long to draw the battery if left on for long lengths of time
.
 
Which LED Bulb did you purchase? Was it the one that I recommended to you?

If it was, all you would have to do is force the center of rubber dust cover around the bulb center insert's outer diameter.

View attachment 26817

The center insert comes off with only a 1/4 turn from the stalk.

View attachment 26816

Once the insert is installed, then you have to install the LED stalk in to the insert. Once fully seated, then turn it a 1/4 turn to lock it into position.

I hope this helps, however it might be too late now. Disregard if you like.

Was it the same LED? yes. I used the link you graciously supplied.
As to the rest of the advice you just have...
I confess I don't understand a thing you just said.

The hole in the center of the rubber boot was too small for the LED Bulb. I cut the center circle out, and that worked better.
the Three tabs on the light fit neatly into the light fitting. I wouldn't turn either way, so I don't know what you mean about 1/4 turn.
the metal clip is screwed on at the left side, but it closed over the LED just like it should holding the three LED tabs in the three places they belong securely.

I just came back from a long night ride on streets with no lighting. The high/low beams work just like we are used to.
The color of the light is a little cooler than I'm used to, but no oncoming car flashed me as if to say, "your lights must be on high" when they were not.

One problem with text as instruction is that it's abstract. It's not the same as being there.
My favorite story to illustrate that may be found [HERE].

If it helps any, I couldn't (and would not have) attempted this without your kind advice. Thanks for supplying the best light and technical help!. :)
 
Last edited:
I confess I don't understand a thing you just said.

The hole in the center of the rubber boot was too small for the LED Bulb. I cut the center circle out, and that worked better.
the Three tabs on the light fit neatly into the light fitting. I wouldn't turn either way, so I don't know what you mean about 1/4 turn.
the metal clip is screwed on at the left side, but it closed over the LED just like it should holding the three LED tabs in the three places they belong securely.

I just came back from a long night ride on streets with no lighting. The high/low beams work just like we are used to.
The color of the light is a little cooler than I'm used to, but no oncoming car flashed me as if to say, "your lights must be on high" when they were not.

If it helps any, I couldn't (and would not have) attempted this without your kind advice. Thanks for supplying the best light and technical help!. :)

Please take a look at the diagram that I had done in PhotoShop below regarding how to disassemble the H4 LED Bulb. After seeing this diagram, what I said earlier will make perfect sense.

H4LEDBulbDisassembly.jpg

Retaining clip is a little tricky on most Honda models. The space confinements without removing all the plastic off does not help either.

Please not the image below is not of my unit. It was found on the internet for visual representation.

maxresdefault.jpg


I forced the center of the dust boot hole around the outer diameter of the adapter plate, no cutting of the boot required. The rubber stretched easily around the adapter for me.

Please not the image below is not of my unit. It was found on the internet for visual representation.

Rearofheadlight_zpsecb50fa9.jpg

Sounds like that you may have to adjust your headlight aim down a little. I did mention that to you, if you reminder right.

I have a vast knowledge when it comes to LEDs with both selecting and the application of these devices. Do not hesitate to ask me for assistance or for recommendations on what to use and where to find it.

No problem, glad I could be of some help to you on this project. :eek:
 
Last edited:
Back
Top