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LED Headlight coming soon, maybe..

Big Thump said:
Very nice Brillot! Give us a review after you return.
Click to expand...

Well, the unit continued to work through the 350 mile around trip that I did yesterday, there was no doubt in my mind regarding it.

There were a few times that I have to "Flash" between "High and Low" to alert some "Cage" drivers to move aside to allow me to pass. These people are mostly focused on what's only in front of them and do not look into the rear view mirror that often. It took some effort to get their attention at times, sometimes I also had to flash my LED driving lights too. Once I got their attention, they knew I was there. On-coming or intersections traffic seemed to acknowledge my presence.

The real test will be after dark on their performance, I'm not sure when that will be though. During daytime use, they seem to be doing what they are intended to do.
 
Brillot2000 said:
I have "NO CLUE" regarding that. They also did that for the tailight and turn signals bulbs too. Those are 1156 and 1157, FYI...

I am also trying to "GO LED" using the stock tailight assembly as well. That one will need a little bit more research and resources... :)

Many people are trying to steal my "THUNDER" regarding that one. :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

I've been running a LED taillight for well over a year. What THUNDER are you talking about?
 
turbodieseli4i6 said:
I've been running a LED taillight for well over a year. What THUNDER are you talking about?
Click to expand...

I am referring to people stating the obvious, such as the lighting of the license plate and it has be "White". I'm quite aware of that requirement. I've suggested using an auxiliary light for that purpose , the lightning of the license plate. There has been several objections to the idea, many suggestion that it's "Not Legal" to do that. I bag to defer.

The following California Vehicle Code supports my desired means of action, see below:

V C Section 24601 License Plate Lamp

License Plate Lamp

24601. Either the taillamp or a separate lamp shall be so constructed and placed as to illuminate with a white light the rear license plate during darkness and render it clearly legible from a distance of 50 feet to the rear. When the rear license plate is illuminated by a lamp other than a required taillamp, the two lamps shall be turned on or off only by the same control switch at all times.
 
Brillot2000 said:
The following California Vehicle Code supports my desired means of action, see below:

V C Section 24601 License Plate Lamp

License Plate Lamp

24601. Either the taillamp or a separate lamp shall be so constructed and placed as to illuminate with a white light the rear license plate during darkness and render it clearly legible from a distance of 50 feet to the rear. When the rear license plate is illuminated by a lamp other than a required taillamp, the two lamps shall be turned on or off only by the same control switch at all times.
Click to expand...

The images below show my approach to address this and meet the "Legal Requirements" as called out in the California Vehicle Code section shown above.

IMG_2735.jpg

Here's the "Basic Concept" using a LED Pod that I had lying around lightly tacked to the underside of the stock taillight assembly for "Demonstration Purposes Only..."

IMG_2736.jpg

The illumination and light spread of the light from the LED Pod will be adequate to meet legal requirements.

Note: This LED Pod is obviously "Blue" and will not be the one used. A "Cool White" unit of the same type will be purchased for this purpose.
 
Big Thump said:
Great to hear that Bruce! Thanks for posting the report.
Click to expand...

I finally got to ride the bike after dark last night. The LED H4 Bulb performed very well on the way home.

NaNCy_H4LED_1.jpg

I could see the light beam from the headlight over all the street lights on city streets, which is a good sign. Once I got out on the highway away from most of those lights, the lighting of the roadway was pretty good on the "Low Beam" and even better on "High Beam". I tried it out with and without my LED Driving Lights on. The lighting was "Very Good" with only using the headlight. It was even better with the LED Driving Lights on, kind of like "HD Vision" in comparison.

The 5,000° Kelvin is a paler white than the light from the driving lights. I think that a rating of 6,000° Kelvin would be a better selection to get a more "Whiter Light". The LED Bulb performed very well and would be a great upgrade to be added to the NC Arsenal.
 
Well, I finally got around to installing mine the other day. Ordered the same one turbodieseli4i6 did, although they have made some updates to the H4 design for an easier install. I guess what ever they did worked. I didn't have to remove the headlight assembly to install. (though I started to pull plastic to do so until I discovered how much I would have to keep pulling and pulling.) Anyhow, I was able to get the new LED bulb in and squeeze the retaining clip between the bulb mounting plate and the fan assembly, then using a pick tool I got the retaining clip secured and made sure there wasn't any play on the bulb. Connected the wires and made sure it worked, then cut the rubber boot some to cover the opening as much as I could while still allowing for some airflow for the cooling fan. After getting the boot back on, I zip tied the connectors to a secure location as it looked like they might interfere with the forks while turning and either get pinched or prevent me from turn the bars as far as I may need to turn them.

So this morning was my first trial with the light in during my morning commute at 3:45am. I am very pleased with the light out put over the stock bulb. I have LED aux driving lights already, Denali Micros. I normally run with them on ALL the time. Well while testing out the new LED light I had forgot that I had turned the Denali's off. I didn't realize they were off until I was almost to work when I decided to see what difference they made on the road! With the stock bulb I would have noticed right away. It's nice having the same type of light for all three lights now. The stock bulb was yellow compared to the whitish blue light from the LED aux lights. Never once on my 50mile commute did someone flash lights at me to let me know that mine were too bright either. Overall very happy with this purchase so far! $60bucks and no removal of all the plastic pieces, can't beat that right now!
 
Great job! Your fingers must be a tad slimmer than mine, not to mention the dexterity of a 6 YO contortionist. Glad you are happy with it.
 
There is yet another type of LED bulb throwing it's hat in the ring- this one doesn't use a cooling fan, but claims it's non Chip-on-Board design eliminates the need, and a heat sink alone, is adequate.

H4 LED Headlight - ADVmonster


I see that the lumen rating (2400) appears a bit less, and it is a 20watt output only, not increasing the amount of LED's/wattage to differentiate between Low or High beam, but some kind of shield or reflector used? I can't quite figure it out.
 
Brillot2000 said:
I finally got to ride the bike after dark last night. The LED H4 Bulb performed very well on the way home.

View attachment 18173

I could see the light beam from the headlight over all the street lights on city streets, which is a good sign. Once I got out on the highway away from most of those lights, the lighting of the roadway was pretty good on the "Low Beam" and even better on "High Beam". I tried it out with and without my LED Driving Lights on. The lighting was "Very Good" with only using the headlight. It was even better with the LED Driving Lights on, kind of like "HD Vision" in comparison.

The 5,000° Kelvin is a paler white than the light from the driving lights. I think that a rating of 6,000° Kelvin would be a better selection to get a more "Whiter Light". The LED Bulb performed very well and would be a great upgrade to be added to the NC Arsenal.
Click to expand...


Hey Bruce, hope your not too upset with me copying all you mods, but you do all the research, find the best bang for your buck products so to me it's a no brainer, THANKS A MILLION, keep it up!! Joe

WP_20140627_16_40_18_Pro.jpg
 
This is the one I put in. It didn't require cutting the rubber boot or removing any plastics.

hl-led-h4.jpg
 
L.B.S. said:
There is yet another type of LED bulb throwing it's hat in the ring- this one doesn't use a cooling fan, but claims it's non Chip-on-Board design eliminates the need, and a heat sink alone, is adequate.

H4 LED Headlight - ADVmonster
Click to expand...

DO NOT GET THIS LED BULB. I bought it for testing it on a multiple of H4 applications I have at home. First was the NC700X. The way this LED works is it has 2 sets of 2 LED's that sit opposite each other the further from base LED's are the standard lights, and for highbeam the closer LEDs switch on, turning off the other 2. So only 2 LEDs are lit at once.

Although the unit gets warm it was not hot, and in the day time, these seemed to be very bright. But when I took the NC for a test ride around the block at night, the results were very different.

The K color of the light is around a 5,500 Not pure white at all. Creating harsh lighting conditions. But that is not the big problem

The way this sits stock in the NC is the LEDs are sideways, left and right, creating a split down the dead center of the headlight beam pattern. I wish I got photos of this to show but it was so bad and unusable I quickly turned home and gave up for now.

To describe what happens is imagine 2 lights on our NC pointing 30' off center. with NO light being thrown down the center. Yeah thats how this bulb worked. I could light the sides of the road and the houses as I rode by, But no light actually ON THE ROAD!

I have a theory I want to try though, once I'm done playing with this bulb in other items. Find a way to turn the bulb 90' Making the LED's face up and down. That seems to be the way our reflector works with the stock halogen H4's.

I'll take pictures once I try this. SOON!
 
Thank you for the test and result notice, O.R.! :eek:

I was hesitant about this one for a couple reasons. One, the lumen amount was a lot lower than the other types, and it made no distinction in output between low and high beam.

Second, (and possibly related) was talk of a metal shield on the LED, that most people removed to try and make it better?
 
I installed the Cyclops 3800 H4 a week ago and I am very pleased with the result. The 5500K and the 3800 lumen do a great job. It was kinda tricky to get the rubber boot to work with this unit but made a small change (larger hole) to it and it is working great. I can see at least twice as far as before and now I am also seen way better by cagers.
 
Last edited:
+1 on the Cyclops 3800, I have been running one for a year or so now and it is a great improvement. I did have to adjust the aim.
 
LM15 said:
+1 on the Cyclops 3800, I have been running one for a year or so now and it is a great improvement. I did have to adjust the aim.
Click to expand...

I was going to order this bulb, but the webpage see pic, point #6 says it is not DOT approved and for off road only, does this make a difference?

455b82290a54de24913f4bc1b66f1303.jpg


679a33a99729ddd6c7926ce515dceec5.jpg



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