• A few people have been scammed on the site, Only use paypal to pay for items for sale by other members. If they will not use paypal, its likely a scam NEVER SEND E-TRANSFERS OF ANY KIND.

Kissan Traiblazer LED Brakelight

shelglass

Site Supporter
Joined
Jun 11, 2013
Messages
28
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Saint Louis
Visit site
I did a search on brake light modulators and found a link to Kissan. Looks like no cutting wires just a replacement bulb in the tail light and away you go. Anyone using the Kissan product? I know Signal Dynamics Back Off, but me cutting wires, and finding the correct wires, let's just say could be real trouble.:eek:
 
I use the Kisan tail light and like the plug and play. It is just as bright as the original bulb, but I might have gone with the led the next time. It is not only the blinking that catches the eye, but how quickly it turns on and off as well.
 
The Kisan Tailblazer that I know of does not have a programmable flash pattern. I personally don't like the pattern as it drags out forever. However it is a sturdy, well made product and it's easy to wire in, but you do need to find the brake light wire. I have one I'll sell cheap if you want it.

A word about brake light modulators in general is that they work much better with LED lights than incandescents. The rapid flash of the modulator vs sluggish response of the bulb filament make for a lackluster display. It's almost as if the bulb never gets to reach full brightness.
 
I am looking at the Bulb/ plug in to the socket replaces the oem bulb in there now. Programmable or not it should increase rear visibility when slowing or stopping, Where is the trap door to replace the brake bulb, anyone know?
 
Just a quick follow up on my Kisan Modulated replacement bulb. I put the ting in and no flash, not even high for the brake light, just stayed on. So maybe I didn't have the base in correct. I go to remove it and thy bulb disintegrates and comes off. Luckily I had another 20W bulb and put that into the base, put it back in the fixture and.....flashed twice and...nothing. So we will see if the ebayer returns it. Confounded by how delicate the halogen bulb seemed.
 
I've been using this LED Replacement bulb with a built-in flasher for most of the year, been working great
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/s-series-bulbs/1157-led-bulb-w-brake-flasher-dual-function-1-high-power-led-bay15d-retrofit-car/923/2274/

I use this same bulb in both of my bikes. It works better in the CBR250 than it does in the NC700X, probably just due to differences in the reflector & lens. Also the NC700X has a clear window below the brake light that is supposed to shine white light onto the license plate, so technically this bulb isn't legal on the NC700X (shines red light). The CBR250 has a separate white bulb for the license plate so it's not a problem on that bike.

timthumb.php
 
I have installed the kisan tailblazer 20w-d. I didnt know the flash pattern or how much brighter it would be compare to the OEM bule until after the fact to be honest.

However, my ABS light remains on now, but I dont have ABS! Tech support says something about "CAN" compatible for newer bikes and that they may need to send me a new bulb.

But I do want to reiterate...I really like the flash pattern...and brightness of this thing. Awesome!

We'll see what they do about the ABS light.
 
I find most of the LED plug-in replacements to be ineffective or problematic. I replaced all of my rear lighting with Whelen LED bars. Ask OldCanRide what it looks like to follow me. In general though, unless you are going to do a thorough re-work of the lighting, I think that supplemental lights beat bulb replacement. Here is a small and very bright Whelen LED that mounts nicely on the rear fender...

http://www.strobesnmore.com/Whelen-TIR3-Super-LEDs.html?gclid=CLmNouCMncwCFZA2gQodcUgKZg
 
I find most of the LED plug-in replacements to be ineffective or problematic. I replaced all of my rear lighting with Whelen LED bars. Ask OldCanRide what it looks like to follow me. In general though, unless you are going to do a thorough re-work of the lighting, I think that supplemental lights beat bulb replacement. Here is a small and very bright Whelen LED that mounts nicely on the rear fender...

http://www.strobesnmore.com/Whelen-TIR3-Super-LEDs.html?gclid=CLmNouCMncwCFZA2gQodcUgKZg

Oddly enough...I did not opt for the LED version. I stuck with the halogen version in attempt to avoid any issues. That didn't exactly work out...lol
 
Oddly enough...I did not opt for the LED version. I stuck with the halogen version in attempt to avoid any issues. That didn't exactly work out...lol

The previous owner of my R100RS used a halogen stop light and the lens had started to melt from the extra heat. I still contend that a stock taillight bulb and an additional LED brake light is the best fix. Hyperlights are good as are Skene Photo Boosters and the already mentioned Whelen TIR3's.
 
The previous owner of my R100RS used a halogen stop light and the lens had started to melt from the extra heat.

I have to agree with Beemerphile on this subject matter. The inside volume of the stock taillight lens is not that much and the air can be come superheated really fast as a halogen bulbs burn a lot hotter than an incandescent. The result could be either a distorted or melted lens when left illuminated for great lengths of time.
 
However, my ABS light remains on now, but I dont have ABS! Tech support says something about "CAN" compatible for newer bikes and that they may need to send me a new bulb

I do not believe that Honda uses a CAN Bus system like European bikes do that scans the bulbs to see if they are burned out. I have complete LED Lighting in all the stock lighting fixtures on my bike, no issues for nearly 2 years now.

Back in 1975 when the first Gold Wing came out, Honda Engineers created a module called a "Reserve Lighting Module". The unit was suppose to keep either the headlight or taillight functional when one of the two filaments was burned out. It was a great "Flop" and was abandoned.

hondagoldwinggl1000ltd-1976-3-1024x768.jpg
 

I do not believe that Honda uses a CAN Bus system like European bikes do that scans the bulbs to see if they are burned out.


I am no expert on electronics...I am all mechanical. However I have stayed clear of LED's where LED's are not original for this very reason.

The electronics in our bikes absolutely sense the bulbs power draw and when its not within parameters, and throws a light on (without a special device to trick the system).

Why mine throws the ABS light on with a non-LED bulb must be due to the circuitry this company has built in, however I have not uninstalled it yet to verify the light goes off.



As far as heat goes, both bulbs get very hot and this one in particular is at least half the size of the OEM bulb, which already had ample air space around it. I have no worries.
 
I am no expert on electronics...I am all mechanical. However I have stayed clear of LED's where LED's are not original for this very reason.

Well, I happen to be an expert on this subject matter. I use LED lighting quite widely on multiple vehicles which were not OEM equipped as such. I can assure everyone reading this post that using LEDs on NC700 will not experience any adverse effects or issues. The issue you described sounds to be more of an nuisance than an issue.

The ABS indicator LED must be floating in a unknown electrical state. Your installation or other circumstances may have provided the necessary state to make it illuminate. Pen pointing this pneumonia to installing a LED Bulb is unfounded in my expert option.
 
Back
Top