Chuck, you do realize you just set yourself up for some serious ribbing the next time we ride
Had to sacrifice myself for the masses.
Killed My Battery
- Thread starter SergeantChuck
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Had to sacrifice myself for the masses.
Goose
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LBS,
You can use an old race bike or you can use an old BSA like my first street legal bike. I may have totaled more miles pushing that thing than riding it.
Your technique is what I wound up using, sidesaddle seems scary at first but it is the best way to get on the bike during a push start, even if you are tall like me. Just remember (assuming you jump on from the left side of the bike) turn the bars to the point the front wheel slightly to the right just before you stop is how keep the bike falling on the right side. Timing your butt hitting the seat just as you dump the clutch also takes some practice.
(Added later) Forgot another important point: Put the bike in gear and push it backwards until it stops. The means you have a cylinder on compression. The will allow the crank to spin as far as possible and build up as much momentum as possible before the engine comes up on compression again and tries to lock the rear wheel. This sounds minor but it makes a big difference.
One small difference, I've had to go as high as 4th in a bike with tall gearing, big cylinders and more than average compression (R90S). I'm not sure if you'd need to do that with an NC700 but we did with the Beemer.
Two more things:
Chuck, like several people have said, no need to be embarassed we all do dumb stuff from time to time. If we ever meet ask we about cutting the end of my left index finger off. I wasn't even riding a bike, I was building a motor in my garage.
It may not be a problem on modern Hondas but not using the kill switch may be a bad idea. I know two people who have been stranded when the contacts in the kill switch got "dirty" and opened. I kill the engine with the switch, turn it back on and then turn off the key. This maybe out dated, both cases were 1980s BMWs, I've been told by a metallurgist that BMW used poorly chosen alloys in their electrical systems back in the day. But it doesn't hurt. Or, you could be an anal retentive geek like me and cover every electrical contact in dielectric grease.
Goose
You can use an old race bike or you can use an old BSA like my first street legal bike. I may have totaled more miles pushing that thing than riding it.
Your technique is what I wound up using, sidesaddle seems scary at first but it is the best way to get on the bike during a push start, even if you are tall like me. Just remember (assuming you jump on from the left side of the bike) turn the bars to the point the front wheel slightly to the right just before you stop is how keep the bike falling on the right side. Timing your butt hitting the seat just as you dump the clutch also takes some practice.
(Added later) Forgot another important point: Put the bike in gear and push it backwards until it stops. The means you have a cylinder on compression. The will allow the crank to spin as far as possible and build up as much momentum as possible before the engine comes up on compression again and tries to lock the rear wheel. This sounds minor but it makes a big difference.
One small difference, I've had to go as high as 4th in a bike with tall gearing, big cylinders and more than average compression (R90S). I'm not sure if you'd need to do that with an NC700 but we did with the Beemer.
Two more things:
Chuck, like several people have said, no need to be embarassed we all do dumb stuff from time to time. If we ever meet ask we about cutting the end of my left index finger off. I wasn't even riding a bike, I was building a motor in my garage.
It may not be a problem on modern Hondas but not using the kill switch may be a bad idea. I know two people who have been stranded when the contacts in the kill switch got "dirty" and opened. I kill the engine with the switch, turn it back on and then turn off the key. This maybe out dated, both cases were 1980s BMWs, I've been told by a metallurgist that BMW used poorly chosen alloys in their electrical systems back in the day. But it doesn't hurt. Or, you could be an anal retentive geek like me and cover every electrical contact in dielectric grease.
Goose
That's where the side saddle thing comes in handy- you don't have to try and awkwardly swing your right leg over, twisting your torso attempting to keep your hands on the bars, your left foot on the peg etc., (especially with panniers in the way) your butt can easily go higher than the bike seat when you give a little running jump, and your arms/hands are left relatively unmoved.
I spent the better part of 5 years with my returned to street-duty race bike, that had no battery, no starter motor, and no kickstart. High compression pistons and tall suspension, electronic CDI ignition. You'd be surprised once you get the knack of it with some practice.
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I'm curious if anyone on this forum has successfully push started this bike?
pismocycleguy
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Luckily I haven't needed to push start this bike. But I have in the past push started several different bike, but none were fuel injected. Very hard to fire a fuel injected bike with a completely dead battery. No juice to get the fuel pump running.
I do not believe the alternator can produce enough electricity to run the fuel pump and produce an ignition spark, simply by being pushed?
I do not believe the alternator can produce enough electricity to run the fuel pump and produce an ignition spark, simply by being pushed?
Goose
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If the battery is totally flat you can't start a carb equipped bike unless it has a magneto. You need enough "juice" to saturate the coil so you can get a spark. The EEs can correct me but I don't think an alternator can produce any power unless the battery can supply a small amount of power to the alternator to start with.
I haven't started a NC700 but I have push started injected bikes, most recently my XR1200 Sportster. If you turn on the key and hear the fuel pump build pressure you have a chance. No guaranty, just a chance, you still need more power to open the injector to get some fuel in the cylinder. If you don't hear the pump, you need a jump or a tow truck. If it does start keep the revs up while the alternator gets some power into the battery.
Goose
I haven't started a NC700 but I have push started injected bikes, most recently my XR1200 Sportster. If you turn on the key and hear the fuel pump build pressure you have a chance. No guaranty, just a chance, you still need more power to open the injector to get some fuel in the cylinder. If you don't hear the pump, you need a jump or a tow truck. If it does start keep the revs up while the alternator gets some power into the battery.
Goose
Thanks saved my butt once now and my neighbors suv 4 times on the same charge.... awesome tool, well worth the $129.00 .... had it charge my computer one time also .... it is in what ever bike I'm on or car I'm in .... would have saved my butt earlier this month when I got a tow.... I thought the advertising was all hype but it really does work .... Glad you mentioned it.
My question really isn't directed toward the mechanics part of "Can the bike do it"? It more a question can the rider easily do it? I've pushed started many bikes over the years. A CBR is pretty easy to throw a leg over. The stance of this NC makes it difficult for me to get on just standing still. Many of us have saddle bags and a top box. There is a whole lot of stuff in the way when trying to throw a leg over not to mention the height of the bike. I tried three times and it is very awkward trying to push this bike and throw your leg over. Even if I had practiced for a week straight it would still be difficult because of what I mentioned above. Just my opinion.
ste7ios
Member
It's almost a 250Kg bike... Personally I can't move it safely. I belong to the 'feather category. I'm weighting about 60-62Kg.
And about the mechanics... If you've a conventional gear box, a push probably it will be ok (but we've the lights always on, so? It's not so probable...)
With the DCT it will be simple impossible.
A jump starter like the antigravity is a life savior, but IMHO the last solution. It's better to charge the battery with a charger because a bike's charging system is not designed to charge a battery, only to maintain it. A depleted battery will stress the stator and the R/R.
And about the mechanics... If you've a conventional gear box, a push probably it will be ok (but we've the lights always on, so? It's not so probable...)
With the DCT it will be simple impossible.
A jump starter like the antigravity is a life savior, but IMHO the last solution. It's better to charge the battery with a charger because a bike's charging system is not designed to charge a battery, only to maintain it. A depleted battery will stress the stator and the R/R.
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---> "That's where the side saddle thing comes in handy- you don't have to try and awkwardly swing your right leg over, twisting your torso attempting to keep your hands on the bars, your left foot on the peg etc., (especially with panniers in the way) your butt can easily go higher than the bike seat when you give a little running jump, and your arms/hands are left relatively unmoved." <---
