Getting the key into the ignition is difficult.

[lll_Natsu_lll]

Ok so its a bit difficult to get the key in and out of the ignition, so i just thought i would see if anyone could help me out before i try anything myself.

also the it seems like the key is getting damaged little by little the more i take the key out of the ignition.

 

[Ruggybuggy]

Graphite spray can be your friend! If I leave my key in the ignition for prolong periods of time it will start to get sticky. A little graphite and problem goes away.

 

[Papafox]

Check to see if the key is twisted along its length. Mine does that occasionally.

 

[Deleted member 1183]

I use silicone spray to good effect.

 

[dmerc]

One of the crummier parts on the bike and poor placement. They should have raised it a couple inches. I'm beginning to think this switch has something to do with the tripmeters resetting themselves also.

 

[houssam2]

i had this problem as well. I found that if the key won't come out of the ignition, pushing on the right side of the key (not twisting) while you're pulling out seems to help.

 

[Jelly]

I've always squirted WD40 down the ignition key slot (and the frunks too) after each wash and I've had no probs at all.

 

[itlives]

I have wondered about this (non-existent for me) problem. Because the switch is exposed to rain, I was wondering if the usual graphite would be better or one of the sprays you guys have used.
I'm thinking maybe WD-40 because it displaces water and lubes.
One thing to remember about WD-40. It will RUIN a (new) paint job. Fish eyes! Look it up if you don't know what it is. Just remember to pre-clean the paint really good if these two things (WD-40 and painting) are in your future.

 

[670cc]

Part of the issue is the dust door on the keyhole. Learning to use a slight sideways swiping motion to assist in opening the door helps with key insertion.

 

[ld_rider]

I use silicone spray to good effect.

^^^^^ I had a similar problem when bike was new and after a few squirts of Dupont Silicone and 5,000 miles the problem is .....gone.

 

[caldercay]

Time to put some old wives' tales to rest

a) Do not use graphite ... the first time water (humidity will do it too) ingresses the ignition, the graphite will gum up.
b) Do on use an "oily" lubricant (like WD), for the same side-effect as (a).

Use a dry lubricant on the KEY, then insert ... do not spray down in the ignition switch \ lock mechanism.

Don't believe (a) or (b)? Walk into any locksmith and ask what they'd use for motorcycle locks.

The problem with the NC key is the same issue we have with the ST key (as is with other Honda bikes):
1) The full length of the blade is engulfed by the ignition switch \ lock, up to the shoulder stop
2) In the case of the NC700, the key's millings, only, are engulfed by the frunk's lock, leaving the rest of the key's blade exposed.

Eventually, given time with constant use of the key in the frunk's lock, the key eventually gets "twisted" where the millings stop.

With the ST, the key is also used for the gas cap and the panniers, so the key gets a constant twist action when used in those locks.
It's not unheard of to read a post in the ST forum that someone's key has broken IN HALF INSIDE the ignition.

What's the fix? If your most-used key is "bent" (lay key on a known flat surface to check), take your other master and have a couple of keys made.
Then, refer to this key farkle and use these key(s) for the frunk.