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Chain slider

Socrates

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Has anyone else had any issues with their chain slider? Recently I was looking closely at my chain and noticed a strip of rubber was lying between my chain and swingarm and it had apparently had become twisted and was now sticking out the side of my frame near the rear foot peg.

NC700X_chainslider.jpg

I called the dealer where I bought the bike over a year ago and the service mgr was completely uninterested in helping me figure out what this strip of rubber was and/or why it appeared to be damaged and protruding where it doesn't belong. After several google searches I found this link: http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2014-honda-nc700x-swingarm/o/m155458sch849218 - Part #10 is the chain slider.

Turns out the chain slider is designed to wrap along the top and bottom of the forward section of the swingarm to protect it from the chain. I've noticed that most manufacturers use screws to firmly attach their sliders to the swingarms, but Honda just has a small protrusion on the rubber slider that snaps into a small hole on the swingarm (a screw does hold the slider down in the middle, but not on the rear side of the swingarm). I raised the chain with one hand and stretched the slider back into place, and then snapped the small rubber nipple back into it's place on the swingarm. Seems to be holding in place so far.

Doesn't seem to be a big deal, just really odd.
 
For yours to flip out sideways like that indicates that it's broken. If it were mine I would replace it.
 
It is odd the rub strip displaced itself from the mount location and pivoting around the screw attach point. Just keep an eye on it.
I'm chiming in because your chain appears a little dry. I periodically tooth brush the inside of my chain after a ride to keep the chain looking nice and oily. This method has zero drip.
The only downside is the oily aftertaste.
 
It is odd the rub strip displaced itself from the mount location and pivoting around the screw attach point. Just keep an eye on it.
I'm chiming in because your chain appears a little dry. I periodically tooth brush the inside of my chain after a ride to keep the chain looking nice and oily. This method has zero drip.
The only downside is the oily aftertaste.
I at least hope you use an old electric tooth brush.:D
as for me, I use the Grunge brush,
with the engine running, bike on main stand.
brush off dirt&grime followed by new spray of wax.
 
DO NOT CLEAN OR TOUCH THE CHAIN WITH THE BIKE IN GEAR !!

Safety is for sissies..........but ........Google chain injury images and you will find dozens of crushing and amputated digits. It happens incredibly quick when you might least suspect.

Replantation of the digits amputated by motorcycle chain injury | SpringerLink

This one from a GSXR is one of the more common sighted injuries published on multiple forums

http://www.gixxer.com/forums/33-gen...w-not-clean-your-chain-**graphic-pics***.html

Yes.....The grunge brush does have a handle which helps just a very little bit. Still not a good idea.
 
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+1. I thought about posting the photos of hand injuries from chain mishaps, but THEY ARE NOT PRETTY, and we're all big boys and girls so I decided not to intervene. There was mention of an engine running, but no mention of a bike in gear, so I gave it the benefit of the doubt.
 
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I left he photos off for the same reason........but......engine running on the center stand, cleaning the chain implies rotation by being in gear. PSA Is needed for those who might not realize the danger and reading this on line seemed like a good idea.

Then add the fact the post already has a like means the potential injury or problem is not known or obvious to some.

I have witnessed crushing injuries with just rotating the wheel by hand with a rag in hand on the chain in this cleaning process. ( in a shop, experienced technician)
 
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my guess is that this is your very first bike.

I might suggest to read the manual. specifically the maintenance section.

your chain look pretty dry.
 
I have a spare chain slider/guide and the photos are posted below. The part is all one piece and wraps around the top and bottom of the swingarm. For a part of it to be pointing out perpendicular to the swingarm suggests the the guide is damaged and has a possibility of getting broken into two pieces. While the chance is small, I would not want the guide to dislodge and take a ride into the countershaft sprocket area where it could do damage or lock up the chain. As I mentioned in post #2, I would replace this part if it were my bike.

Others have mentioned the apparent lack of chain maintenance seen in the photo. While you didn't ask any question specific to the chain, I have to agree with others that the chain needs attention. It's also a possibility that the lack of lubricant could have somehow contributed the the guide failure.

100_0948.jpg

100_0949.jpg
 
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Guide failure? I've not seen this mentioned before. How many miles are people getting before it 'wears out' and needs replacing. Do people just wait till they break like this one or do they proactively replace? Speaking of chains, mine has 10500 miles but looks like new. I've read that OCR changes his chain and sprokets every 12000 miles. Being as I am getting a new rear tire installed should I go ahead and get a new chain at the same time?
 
The chain guide does wear but usually 40000-60000 would be normal maybe depending use and care. Dry chain and dry guide would be the worst for chain guide life.

As far as chain and sprockets every 12,000 .......many of us would consider that excessive to just plain crazy. Of course highly dependent on type of riding, weather conditions and maintenance.
I am looking more at 20,000 for the chain and 40,000 for the sprockets as a norm. Yes, I am in the group with sprockets every other chain. Especially if the chain has a problem like kinks or sticky links or noise at low mileage.

Chain, sprockets, lube, oilers and maintainance is another topic that is a little controversial with personal opinions on all sides of the debate.
 
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I just ordered new DID chains for my ATwin which has 12k+ miles on the odo
DID recommends changing chain sprocket combo every 12k miles.
Since I usually follow manufacturer recommended maintenance intervals,
the old chain will come off today.
Since I don't have a rivet tool, I am bringing out my sawzall y'all :)

The chain slider on the bottom swing arm is a puzzle to me.
I understand the top guide will wear due to gravity but how does the bottom slider
even touch the chain under normal conditions?
 
I carry a pro motion riveting chain breaker and two extra links with me at at all times. I have had to use it a few times on the road. I highly recommend a chain oiler to get greater mileage from the chain. The guides get most wear when your chain has not been properly adjusted, this usually happens to me when on long trips when I just do not oil the chain enough and adjust the chain enough.

My chains and sprockets are worn out every 12000 miles without a chain oiler when I do the oiling. Fuzzy told me he is getting 20000 miles from his chain on his NC7 using a chain oiler.

I use DID chain and JT sprockets.

Motion Pro PBR Motorcycle Chain,Tool Kit Breaker Press Rivet Master Link Street | eBay
 
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I carry a pro motion riveting chain breaker and two extra links with me at at all times. I have had to use it a few times on the road. I highly recommend a chain oiler to get greater mileage from the chain. The guides get most wear when your chain has not been properly adjusted, this usually happens to me when on long trips when I just do not oil the chain enough and adjust the chain enough.

My chains and sprockets are worn out every 12000 miles without a chain oiler when I do the oiling. Fuzzy told me he is getting 20000 miles from his chain on his NC7 using a chain oiler.

I use DID chain and JT sprockets.

Motion Pro PBR Motorcycle Chain,Tool Kit Breaker Press Rivet Master Link Street | eBay
I can attest to getting 20,000 plus miles out of your chain with a oiler. My DID chain lasted a little over 22,000. It probably would have lasted another 3k to 5k but around the 20k mark I ran my oiler dry because of not adjusting the outlet when the weather jumped up 20° I change my sprockets every other chain and they still look good. Not positive but I think the chain slider on the underside is because of the suspension travel the AT has, that way when your bopping up and down you don't have your chain smack your swing arm
 
Chain sliders are commonly thought of as wear items. But there is no mileage range that indicates WHEN they should be replaced -- just replace them when they are wearing through in the slightest, or broken. A lot more wear tends to happen on motorcycles with longer swingarm travel or improper chain and sag/suspension adjustment. Another item that needs to be checked once in awhile.
 
As for chain oil, it seems like X-ring and o-ring chains gain benefit a lot from chain lubricants that shed dust/mud/dirt better, especially if you ride off pavement. I've had better luck with waxes and DuPont chain-saver with teflon, and you really don't need to apply it so often either.
 
Thank you for all the responses.
There were a few ATwin owners complaining about chain slapping noises.
The slider also must have muted those noises a bit, but I did not have that issue.

"A lot more wear tends to happen on motorcycles with longer swingarm travel or improper chain and sag/suspension adjustment. Another item that needs to be checked once in awhile."
I am going to have to investigate these items further as I am replacing the chain.
But proof is in the pudding, the OE chain has stretched close to the red mark on the indicator, and AFAIK the CRF1000L has the longest swingarm in their CRF
series.
 
it's not how long the swingarm is though, DCTFAN -- it's how far it can travel up and down when the rear suspension is fully used.
 
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