Center stand

[TacomaJD]

Still waiting for mine. Procaliber is slow on handling and shipping.

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[TacomaJD]

A big pair of channel lock pliers and muscle can get it done but if you aren't 6'3" 240 pounds and muscular you are going to have problems.

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Change that to 6'1" 225 with beer belly, it can be done...Lol. Also change channel locks to vice grips. First tried the little spring puller that came with my Yoshimura exhaust, then had to go for the vice grips. Instructions say insert small spring into large spring and hook the small spring first, but I had no luck that way. Little spring was just in the way when trying to pull the big spring. Kind of a stupid design really. Neither spring is that hard to pull, its just the angle and part of the center stand being in the way when trying to pull it. I think it would have been easier to pull a single thicker spring than to dick around a double spring assembly. Also helps to sit behind the bike and put your right foot on the right driver's peg for leverage. My springs are on inversely to the other, but I think it will be ok. This is the only way I could make it work.

What I did was take the little spring back out of the big one, hook the big one on at both points first, then feed the little spring through the big spring (fairly difficult) hook it on the spring hook, then to the center stand, and done.

Was also a little more difficult getting it up on the center stand since it is lowered. Soon to be un-lowered now! Back to work.

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[dduelin]

It can be jacked up by whatever means you can figure out, however, safety and security will be up to you to weigh out. I ordered an oem center stand from procaliber.com for $120. Waiting on it to come in the mail. Seemed to be the best, cheapest option for me. No storing stands like you mentioned, 2 stands (front and rear) generally cost more than the oem Honda center stand, easy to pop it up on the center stand to lube chain, remove wheels as stated before, even both at the same time by propping something under the front of the engine, etc. It just seemed like the handiest option to me. My bike was lowered when I bought it a couple weeks ago, so I am going to raise it back to oem ride height as soon as I get the center stand in and mounted. It is lowered by lowering links on rear shock and the front forks are slipped up through the triple trees about an inch. With the center stand and something propped up under the engine, I will be able to replace the lowering links with the oem dogbones on the rear shock and also be able to slip the front forks back down through the triple trees, all while on the center stand. A standard front paddock stand that picks up by the bottom of the front forks would not allow me to do that.

When the ride height is restored to stock the handling of the NC is affected somewhat by heavy riders on the stock shock. The spring isn't up to the loaded weight even with the preload rings fully applied to add preload. The rear of the bike sags too much. In order to get back some of the sublime handling qualities you can leave the forks slid up in the triple tree, this quickens the steering by altering steering geometry. I have mine slid up 18 millimeters.

 

[1wiseguy2]

When the ride height is restored to stock the handling of the NC is affected somewhat by heavy riders on the stock shock. The spring isn't up to the loaded weight even with the preload rings fully applied to add preload. The rear of the bike sags too much. In order to get back some of the sublime handling qualities you can leave the forks slid up in the triple tree, this quickens the steering by altering steering geometry. I have mine slid up 18 millimeters.

Or go for an aftermarket shock:[emoji16]

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[dduelin]

Or go for an aftermarket shock:[emoji16]

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Yes, of course that's an option and I went that route but this is a new owner on the stock shock.

 

[TacomaJD]

Yes, of course that's an option and I went that route but this is a new owner on the stock shock.

Which shock are you running? Always been an Ohlins fan. Probably wont mess with that for a while regardless. Might not even mess with it at all, because there's a very good chance I move up to the VFR1200X in a year or two.

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[dduelin]

Which shock are you running? Always been an Ohlins fan. Probably wont mess with that for a while regardless. Might not even mess with it at all, because there's a very good chance I move up to the VFR1200X in a year or two.

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I'm on a Cogent Dynamic shock which is supposedly built off Ohlin's basic unit.

 

[Junkie]

Which shock are you running? Always been an Ohlins fan. Probably wont mess with that for a while regardless. Might not even mess with it at all, because there's a very good chance I move up to the VFR1200X in a year or two.

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I went with a 2016 RSV4 shock with a Racetech spring for my weight (around 10% stiffer than the stock Aprilia spring, so it didn't need a revalve - you're a little bigger than me but not that much). Cost about $200 including the spring, bolted up with some washers to act as spacers.

It's adjustable for length, preload, compression, rebound - so about the same as a decent aftermarket shock. You don't find many length adjustable OEM shocks.

Not gonna claim it's perfect but it made a WORLD of difference vs stock. The reservoir is a tight fit but doesn't rub.

 

[TacomaJD]

I went with a 2016 RSV4 shock with a Racetech spring for my weight (around 10% stiffer than the stock Aprilia spring, so it didn't need a revalve - you're a little bigger than me but not that much). Cost about $200 including the spring, bolted up with some washers to act as spacers.

It's adjustable for length, preload, compression, rebound - so about the same as a decent aftermarket shock. You don't find many length adjustable OEM shocks.

Not gonna claim it's perfect but it made a WORLD of difference vs stock. The reservoir is a tight fit but doesn't rub.

I may go that route if I end up tweaking the suspension. Doesn't sound like a bad deal, if it's good enough for Aprilia, it's good enough for me.

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[Junkie]

Of course, not all shocks are compatible... but the RSV4 shock is the right length, about the right spring rate, and uses the right size bolts.

I suspect that if I had it revalved it'd be better than an entry level Ohlins (meaning the ones with no reservoir), although not as good as the higher end Ohlins.

I adjusted it to significantly longer than stock, to quicken up handling.

People used to often swap in the older Tuono shock with no reservoir, it's easier to get in but I think it's a significantly inferior design.

 

[Convict1997]

For anyone who hasn’t already installed theirs, the Honda center stand springs are easily installed by hooking the springs before inserting the long bolt.

 

[TacomaJD]

For anyone who hasn’t already installed theirs, the Honda center stand springs are easily installed by hooking the springs before inserting the long bolt.

I thought about trying that but figured it would be too hard to get it to line up to slide the sleeve (bolt) in.

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[NuckaMan]

For anyone who hasn’t already installed theirs, the Honda center stand springs are easily installed by hooking the springs before inserting the long bolt.

I just installed mine tonight and I did exactly what was stated above. I saw the excellent idea of using a ratchet tie-down but thought I'd just pre-hook everything up before installing the main axle. What I did was grease the inner diameter of the center-stand, along with the axle itself, preloaded the axle to just before the center point of the centerstand, hooked up the springs, aligned the exhaust-side holes, held it in place while I reached under the bike and pushed the axle completely through to finish the job.

Yes, it took a little effort of holding the alignment, but it was no big deal and went in easy-peasy. Would be even easier if you had a second hand (even your wife) to push on the axle while you held the alignment in place.

 

[670cc]

For anyone who hasn’t already installed theirs, the Honda center stand springs are easily installed by hooking the springs before inserting the long bolt.

Honda’s directions describe this method as an alternative. It’s easy, so I don’t know why anyone would mess with ratchets or straps, but .. . whatever floats your boat.

 

[1wiseguy2]

Honda’s directions describe this method as an alternative. It’s easy, so I don’t know why anyone would mess with ratchets or straps, but .. . whatever floats your boat.

Because I didn't know of this method and the strap was very easy too. [emoji16]

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[Junkie]

I tried using needle nose visegrips with no luck. Ended up using a screwdriver to lever it, with pivot point of centerstand cross post, and it went on fairly easy.

 

[TacomaJD]

Would have been difficult to do in this particular application with the double spring assembly, but a buddy told me about the "penny trick", where you take pennies and put in between each spring coil so that it elongates the spring so you can hook it and then remove the pennies. I thought that was a pretty cool idea.

But seems for this applocation, hooking the springs before installing the long bolt is the way to go. If I ever have to take mine off and reinstall, I will try it that way.

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