12v accessory socket troubleshooting

[luckedoggs]

Is there an easy way to check the relays or wiring? My 12v OEM socket is not working. I checked the fuses and they look good.

 

[silverhound]

What fuses did you check? If it's the OEM socket as you state, there is a 1 amp fuse hidden behind the left side body panel. That one will blow before the 7.5 amp fuse in the main fuse box.

 

[luckedoggs]

That I did not realize. I checked the main fuse box. Do I need to remove the left panel to get at the fuse?

 

[silverhound]

That I did not realize. I checked the main fuse box. Do I need to remove the left panel to get at the fuse?

Unfortunately yes. I don't know your level of comfort with electrical modifications but several forum members have extended the circuit wiring so that the fuse can be re-located to the battery compartment. That way if/when it happens again you won't have to tear half the bike apart to replace it. If you do that, you might as well take the extra step in replacing the in-line fuse holder with a mini-blade type so it's consistent with the rest of the NC fuses.

It's been noted in prior posts that it's a very bad design by Honda both because of the location and type of fuse and also because a 1 amp circuit is good for charging a cell phone or similar low-draw device but probably nothing that draws anymore current than that. I would say you could probably get away with replacing the fuse with a slighter higher rated one, maybe 3 amps at the most as I do not know the gauge of the wire they use. I am sure someone will chime in and warn against that so take that as my opinion only, not a recommendation. Personally I didn't use the OEM 12V socket and harness on my wife's NC and instead fashioned my own as I wanted something that could run a mini-compressor if needed.

Anyhow, sorry you had to find out this way. Do you know why it blew? Did you plug something in with a high draw?

 

[2brnut2b]

That I did not realize. I checked the main fuse box. Do I need to remove the left panel to get at the fuse?

The reason why mine still don't work for now 1 year, is because I have to remove this F*@K*@G panel ! GRrrrrrrrrrrrrr...I'Mm in holiday for 3 weeks and will replace it with a 3 amps just like silverhound suggest.

 

[itlives]

A 1 amp fuse!?
Makes me glad I wired my own and put it in the frunk . It has a 10A fuse.
For my compressor, I have a direct line from battery and an SAE plug (same plug that a Battery Tender uses). I ran the wire through the body panels to the right side of the bike. It hides very well.

 

[luckedoggs]

Spent 2 hrs today and replaced the fuse with a 3A one. A picture is attached of what the holder looks like.

The original 1 amp fuse blew when I plugged in a tire inflator.

 

[Fuzzy]

3 amp fuse still small for a tire inflator. My Slime motorcycle compressor is rated at 15 amps. Best direct to battery with own fuse. The wiring in the accessory is light for that load and even if heavier wire you probably don't want a big fuse for other items in your accessory outlet such as charging a phone.

 

[silverhound]

3 amp fuse still small for a tire inflator. My Slime motorcycle compressor is rated at 15 amps. Best direct to battery with own fuse. The wiring in the accessory is light for that load and even if heavier wire you probably don't want a big fuse for other items in your accessory outlet such as charging a phone.

^^^^Agreed. I only mentioned a 3 amp to provide a little extra wiggle room should one plug something in that has a slightly higher draw than a cell charger. Even my GPS came with a 2 amp inline fuse.

 

[vman1313]

Oh geez...on July 22nd I spent over an hour trying to find the stinking fuse for the thing. I followed and followed the wire taking panel after panel off and finally. I cut the fuse wire, added more wire, and relocated the location of the fuse to under the battery so I can get to it easier.

 

[itlives]

Oh geez...on July 22nd I spent over an hour trying to find the stinking fuse for the thing. I followed and followed the wire taking panel after panel off and finally. I cut the fuse wire, added more wire, and relocated the location of the fuse to under the battery so I can get to it easier.

Actually a good idea -IMHO.

 

[MZ5]

Yeah, it's neither the best location (for the fuse) nor the best gauge of wire & rated current. I'd have much preferred that Honda did that bit a little better from an integration and capacity standpoint. However, the truth is that if I want to run a compressor, I prefer to use alligator clips straight to the battery, and remove them once I'm done using it.

I relocated the factory fuse holder slightly under the side covers so that I don't have to remove much to get at it. I can turn a couple fasteners loose and just flex things enough to get at it if I need to replace the fuse again.

I also put a 2 amp fuse in right before leaving on my loooong trip this summer. A 2 amp fuse will pass more current than that for a surprisingly long time before burning out. IOW, a 1-amp fuse is likely to be sufficient to allow one of the very common 2.4-amp chargers to run for many hours over time. I put in a 2 just so I'm not replacing that fuse on an annual basis with that kind of use.

 

[pismocycleguy]

I just use my battery tender cable that is connected directly to the battery. I put a a battery tender connector type plug on my tire inflator mini compressor cord so it plugs in directly to the battery. Works great for me. And simple to do.
(No body work panels were removed in this installation) Your results may vary?