Recommended Chain,Sprocket, and Costs

[itlives]

Wow, that was a long thread.

I'm more smarterer now. Rivet style for me....

 

[bamamate]

Does anyone have a source for 39T rear sprockets? I have the DCT model and I can't find anything aside from OEM. Sprocket Center only has kits for the manual model (43T rear).

Hammy

I would call sprocket center and see what they say.

I have seen a 39T Renthal on ebay. Search for nc700 sprocket.

Also saw a 50T stump puller on ebay.

 

[BerndM]

For those who do use the clip type master link, it should be a routine part of your bike inspection to visually verify that
the master link's retaining clip is still in place. Unfortunately I think many people don't give it much thought after the
new chain is on the bike, particularly if it was installed at the shop rather than by the owner.

In my mind the weak link (sorry couldn't resist) is not the master link itself, but the retaining clip that holds the master link
together. I've gone through a few chains on other bikes (haven't changed the NC's yet) and make a point of using safety
wire to secure the clip to the link. The only chain I've had where the master link failed was on an airplane tug where the
retaining clip was not safety wired -- after it let loose I found all of the master link parts except the clip and have no idea
how long it was missing. I did once notice a friend's bike was lacking the master link clip which he was sure
had been properly installed many miles earlier... basically the master link was now a time bomb waiting to work loose
without the clip present. If desired I can post some photos showing how to do this.

Every OEM riveted chain I have ever had to replace I have cut off using a cutoff wheel on a Dremel type tool. It takes less than a minute to cut thru the sideplates of a chain to remove it.
I have always reinstalled the new chain with a clip type master link. I learned a little trick years ago to virtually eliminate the possibility of ever losing a clip. I use a very thin but strong length of stainless steel safety wire and wrap it twice around the center of the outside sideplate and lock the clip in place and twist tighten it AFTER the clip is in proper position. In this position, the sprocket teeth will never touch the safety wire and the wire will prevent the clip from coming off. Most old time racers did this all the time.

 

[kharli]

my last two did chains suffered badly from stiff links and failed o rings,,,trying out an ognibene 3000 miles in and all looks good. The rivet peening tool has to be tightened to near breaking point.

one thing ive not seen mentioned is having a vernier guage or similar to check the spread of rivet head..hard to judge by eye or an ordinary ruler..its the only way to be 100% sure.

 

[gboswellsac]

Every OEM riveted chain I have ever had to replace I have cut off using a cutoff wheel on a Dremel type tool. It takes less than a minute to cut thru the sideplates of a chain to remove it.
I have always reinstalled the new chain with a clip type master link. I learned a little trick years ago to virtually eliminate the possibility of ever losing a clip. I use a very thin but strong length of stainless steel safety wire and wrap it twice around the center of the outside sideplate and lock the clip in place and twist tighten it AFTER the clip is in proper position. In this position, the sprocket teeth will never touch the safety wire and the wire will prevent the clip from coming off. Most old time racers did this all the time.

Do you have any pic to show exactly what you are doing... I know old fart has difficulty thinking in pictures...... Thanks

 

[turbodieseli4i6]

Try this link.. http://www.google.com/search?q=wire...sWTyASv14LABA&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAw&biw=962&bih=601

 

[Grey1one]

Sounds like it's similar to this picture.

http://www.dualsport-sd.com/forums/uploads/monthly_04_2011/post-14322-022046600 1303969410_thumb.jpg

 

[rmezei]

Anybody know where I could find a 17T front sprocket for the NC750X? I have the Canadian model which is basically the UK model... The US NC700 seems to be 16 teeth... I need 17!

 

[rmezei]

Anybody know where I could find a 17T front sprocket for the NC750X? I have the Canadian model which is basically the UK model... The US NC700 seems to be 16 teeth... I need 17!

I found this reference by JT:
JT Sprockets: Catalogue

I managed to find one on amazon (Canadian site):

JT Sprockets JTF1373.16 17-Tooth Steel Front Countershaft Sprocket
JT Sprockets JTF1373.16 17-Tooth Steel Front Countershaft Sprocket, Sprockets - Amazon Canada


But it has the 16 mm specification, they say they have the 17 tooth available in 15, 16 and 17 mm sizes from what I'm seeing... however the book does not specify sizes in mm, just the teeth... can anyone help?

 

[rmezei]

I think I'm confused here about the MM... is there such mesaurement when it comes to sproeckets or simply the number of teeth? if so, I think I found the one I need: JT Sprockets JTF1373.16 17-Tooth Steel Front Countershaft Sprocket

 

[670cc]

I found this reference by JT:
JT Sprockets: Catalogue

I managed to find one on amazon (Canadian site):

JT Sprockets JTF1373.16 17-Tooth Steel Front Countershaft Sprocket
JT Sprockets JTF1373.16 17-Tooth Steel Front Countershaft Sprocket, Sprockets - Amazon Canada


But it has the 16 mm specification, they say they have the 17 tooth available in 15, 16 and 17 mm sizes from what I'm seeing... however the book does not specify sizes in mm, just the teeth... can anyone help?

You mention "mm" sizes but that is irrelevant to sprocket applications. Sprocket style, as per the JTF1373 part number, and number of teeth is what is important.

The Amazon listing you linked is full of errors (as seems so typical on Amazon). It looks like they are selling a 16 tooth sprocket, but they are making erroneous references to the 17 tooth version. The title of the listing, "JT Sprockets JTF1373.16 17-Tooth Steel Front Countershaft Sprocket" is bogus from the get-go. A 17 tooth would be a JTF1373.17. Avoid this deal.

 

[rmezei]

You mention "mm" sizes but that is irrelevant to sprocket applications. Sprocket style, as per the JTF1373 part number, and number of teeth is what is important.

The Amazon listing you linked is full of errors (as seems so typical on Amazon). It looks like they are selling a 16 tooth sprocket, but they are making erroneous references to the 17 tooth version. The title of the listing, "JT Sprockets JTF1373.16 17-Tooth Steel Front Countershaft Sprocket" is bogus from the get-go. A 17 tooth would be a JTF1373.17. Avoid this deal.

Thanks for the heads up, I understand it now... I cannot seem to find a JTF1373.17 front sprocket in Canada :|

 

[rmezei]

Thanks for the heads up, I understand it now... I cannot seem to find a JTF1373.17 front sprocket in Canada :|

I found it at partzilla so I will order it... I have ordered a DID 520VX2-112 X-Ring Chain with Connecting Link (for my 2017 DCT NC750X) and the front sprocket JTF1373.17 and a chain tool 8milelake Motorcycle Cam Drive Chain Breaker Riveter Rivet Riveting Cutter Tool so I think that should be all I need?

I won't replace the rear sprocket this time because it looks OK.

 

[potter0o]

I found it at partzilla so I will order it... I have ordered a DID 520VX2-112 X-Ring Chain with Connecting Link (for my 2017 DCT NC750X) and the front sprocket JTF1373.17 and a chain tool 8milelake Motorcycle Cam Drive Chain Breaker Riveter Rivet Riveting Cutter Tool so I think that should be all I need?

I won't replace the rear sprocket this time because it looks OK.

In my opinion the DID chain is too hard for this tool. What that means is the that the tool will give way before the rivet does. You can probably break the chain with this if you grind off the rivet. More negative reviews tan positive.

Amazon.com: 8MILELAKE Motorcycle Cam Drive Chain Breaker Riveter Rivet Riveting Cutter Tool: Automotive

 

[rippin209]

In my opinion the DID chain is too hard for this tool. What that means is the that the tool will give way before the rivet does. You can probably break the chain with this if you grind off the rivet. More negative reviews tan positive.

Amazon.com: 8MILELAKE Motorcycle Cam Drive Chain Breaker Riveter Rivet Riveting Cutter Tool: Automotive

Looks just like the one at cycle gear, anyone actually know if it's the same?

The cycle gear tool I can change 3 to 5 DID VX2 chains on my NC, if you adjust everything properly and grind of the mushroom head off on the chain your removing

 

[potter0o]

Looks just like the one at cycle gear, anyone actually know if it's the same?

The cycle gear tool I can change 3 to 5 DID VX2 chains on my NC, if you adjust everything properly and grind of the mushroom head off on the chain your removing

If this is the tool looks like is branded as Stockton Tool Company. Reviews look good.

Stockton Chain Breaker And Rivet Tool Kit - Cycle Gear

The brand of my old tool was Performance Tool. I bought it on sale at a local automotive place. Broke two of them before they refunded my money. Cost me two rivets and time. It seemed like the tool either didn't have the right alloy mix or wasn't hardened properly.

Performance Tool W89100 Chain Breaker and Riveting Tool, Exhaust Tools - Amazon Canada

 

[rmezei]

I ordered the motion pro after seeing many people break the cheaper alternatives ...

I also want to bring up another point here ... I am at 21000 km on my bike and the sprockets don’t seem to show any wear at all ... i mostly ride in d mode and am easy on the bike ... the chain also looks pretty darn good to me and am still in the green zone ... I think I can get up to 30000 on this chain so about 25k miles ... but the sprockets I’m leaving them alone .. the teeth all flat at the tip and the spaces between them all even and no sign of wear ... weird huh ? I always left my chain alone on the loose side and only adjusted it like twice and just cleaned it wd40 now and then

 

[670cc]

I ordered the motion pro after seeing many people break the cheaper alternatives ...

I also want to bring up another point here ... I am at 21000 km on my bike and the sprockets don’t seem to show any wear at all ... i mostly ride in d mode and am easy on the bike ... the chain also looks pretty darn good to me and am still in the green zone ... I think I can get up to 30000 on this chain so about 25k miles ... but the sprockets I’m leaving them alone .. the teeth all flat at the tip and the spaces between them all even and no sign of wear ... weird huh ? I always left my chain alone on the loose side and only adjusted it like twice and just cleaned it wd40 now and then

Good choice on the Motion Pro chain tool. I’ve used mine 5 times so far on various bikes and it worked with ease and showed no signs of being over stressed.

I'm not surprised on your sprocket condition. My NC’s sprockets were checked at 60,000 km / 37,000 miles and showed no visible wear, although at that time I decided to change the front sprocket since I already had one in stock. Also, 30,000 km on a chain is consistent with what I experienced.

 

[potter0o]

I ordered the motion pro after seeing many people break the cheaper alternatives ...

I also want to bring up another point here ... I am at 21000 km on my bike and the sprockets don’t seem to show any wear at all ... i mostly ride in d mode and am easy on the bike ... the chain also looks pretty darn good to me and am still in the green zone ... I think I can get up to 30000 on this chain so about 25k miles ... but the sprockets I’m leaving them alone .. the teeth all flat at the tip and the spaces between them all even and no sign of wear ... weird huh ? I always left my chain alone on the loose side and only adjusted it like twice and just cleaned it wd40 now and then

I did my chain at 39k km / 24k miles. It was partway into the red. I didn't see much wear in the sprockets but chose to change both to get a base line for new chain with new sprockets. If I saw similar wear next time I would probably reuse both to get a baseline for new chain with old sprockets. I saved the old sprockets. With a 20km commute each way should be years before I need to do this again.

 

[rmezei]

I did my chain at 39k km / 24k miles. It was partway into the red. I didn't see much wear in the sprockets but chose to change both to get a base line for new chain with new sprockets. If I saw similar wear next time I would probably reuse both to get a baseline for new chain with old sprockets. I saved the old sprockets. With a 20km commute each way should be years before I need to do this again.

Nice, was it really loose when it was in the red? any kinks? Anyhow, I will leave the sprockets alone until I see the tips getting sharp and the shape between them getting distorted, there is pictures in the owner's manual.
One thing had me worried for a little while was that after a new tires change there was some clicking from the front sprocket but the guy told me and assured me all is fine and that a chain at 20K will make some noise around the sprockets as it travels on them... not sure if this is true but the bike handles fine, my alignment is fine, I used alignment tool and the marks on the swing arm are to the MM. Chain runs true so I don't know, maybe it's normal... sometimes the clicking goes away with lubrication and as I said the sprockets and chain look good to me.