NC700x Handlebar weight question

Bike: 2012 Honda NC700x

I am looking at 2012 Honda NC700X AC HANDLEBAR / TOP BRIDGE | Babbitts Honda Parts House item #10 (Handlebar weight). These rotate almost a 1/2 a turn on my handlebars and I was just wondering if this is normal or if there is a way to tighten these so they don't rotate.

If you need any pics let me know and I'll take pictures or a video.

Thank you

BouvToTheMax said:

Bike: 2012 Honda NC700x

I am looking at 2012 Honda NC700X AC HANDLEBAR / TOP BRIDGE | Babbitts Honda Parts House item #10 (Handlebar weight). These rotate almost a 1/2 a turn on my handlebars and I was just wondering if this is normal or if there is a way to tighten these so they don't rotate.

If you need any pics let me know and I'll take pictures or a video.

Thank you

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The inner weights rotate freely within the bars. They have rubber isolator O-ring type affairs on them. The outer weights are attached to the inner weights via the visible screw, so they can/will turn as well. Some O-Rings are not lubed at the factory, and can create quite a stiction fit, giving the appearance that they are not really able to rotate, but for the most part, they all do that.

The device that keeps the whole mechanism from coming right out, is a two pronged spring clip that goes around a groove on the inner weight, and stays in place via the two prongs indexing into two small holes drilled into the handle bar ends. These holes are hidden under the grips and throttle barrel.

A lot of engineering goes into handlebars including free floating internal weights designed to reduce felt vibration. I've read where folks have swapped out factory handlebars with plain one and then complain about their hands going to sleep after 20 miles.

CB4ME said:

A lot of engineering goes into handlebars including free floating internal weights designed to reduce felt vibration. I've read where folks have swapped out factory handlebars with plain one and then complain about their hands going to sleep after 20 miles.

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My under $3,000.00 Honda CBR125R has the exact same set up as in my NC700XA, and both work awesome!

My $20,000.00 BMW F800ST had plain old bar end weights (which were also the most massive weights I've *ever* seen on a motorbike ) and they didn't work worth a damn.

Maybe even the Honda style wouldn't have worked on that paint shaker though, my wrists were in agony and then completely numb after a few short miles.

Could aftermarket bars be easily adapted to accept the stock bar weights?

CaptDL said:

Could aftermarket bars be easily adapted to accept the stock bar weights?

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Easy peasy

Make sure the new bars are 7/8" nominal outer diameter (the most common size other than the 1" size found on Harley's and many Japanese cruisers)

In addition, make sure the inner diameter of the new bars is the same as the OEM bars; some aluminum kinds have a much smaller inner size due to the wall thickness being greater. Also, I would take a measuring tape to the length from the very outer ends of the bars to the first bend, and make sure that distance is the same or longer. If the aftermarket bars chosen have a different rise and length ratio, it's possible the part where the grips go might be too short.

That's pretty unlikely, most are well within the correct length needed, but something to at least take into account. Narrower bars may catch you of gaurd. Matching the two little hole positions for the spring clip prongs would be straight forward copying their same positions, and I imagine if you also wanted to copy the OEM positioning of the switchgear pods with their indexing pins, new holes would be needed for them as well.