Need Help 2012 nc700x clutch issues

[Duff1234]

Hello everyone! I purchased a used 2012 nc700x manual version. It only has about 6400 miles so a lot of this just seems crazy to me with so few miles.

When I have the clutch lever adjusted (using the adjustment on the side casing and at the lever) with the correct specs of free play, it drags and the clutch won’t fully disengage. So the bike will start walking with the lever fully pulled to the handlebar. I can adjust the clutch tighter without any free play, to get it to work like a normal clutch and fully disengage, but then it’s partially disengaged all of the time and will surely burn out the discs in no time and slips during moderate acceleration.

I ordered a new clutch cable, friction discs, metal discs and went to change it. After putting in the new discs I have to tighten the side case adjustment to its tightest setting and the tightest setting at the handlebar and it’s still not disengaging the clutch.

I have pulled up the parts diagram at Revzilla parts diagram and every part in the clutch is present, all washers, everything. I’m at a loss and can’t seem to figure it out.

Just looking for any advice or suggestions. Also, when I put the clutch center rod into the shaft in the clutch outer guide, there’s nothing in that shaft, it’s just empty straight through to the other side. Should there be anything in that shaft that the clutch center rod pushes against?

Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions.

 

[670cc]

Does your NC have the stock clutch lever, clutch cable, and stock hand grips? When the side case is reinstalled, does it simply use the recommended sealant (no gasket)?

 

[Duff1234]

Does your NC have the stock clutch lever, clutch cable, and stock hand grips? When the side case is reinstalled, does it simply use the recommended sealant (no gasket)?

It appears to be the stock hand grips and stock clutch lever. The side cover just had sealant, no gasket.

 

[CamaroEric]

Does it seem like anything is hanging up when the clutch is pulled? Can the clutch rod or pivot be installed backwards?
Please post photos at the transmission and handlebars to see if we can spot any anomalies.

 

[Duff1234]

Does it seem like anything is hanging up when the clutch is pulled? Can the clutch rod or pivot be installed backwards?
Please post photos at the transmission and handlebars to see if we can spot any anomalies.

I will take a few photos when I get home from work this evening.

It doesn’t feel like anything is binding anywhere. I ordered and tried a new clutch cable, just in case it stretched out, but it was the exact same with the new cable.

I will post some pictures of the clutch lever and pivot, some at the side cover and I will post a few with the side casing off and the state of the clutch pack.

 

[670cc]

Are there handlebar risers installed by a previous owner that may have been reason for them to reroute the clutch cable from it’s original position? Rerouting the clutch cable obviously doesn’t alter the sheath or cable length, but could cause binding.

 

[Duff1234]

Are there handlebar risers installed by a previous owner that may have been reason for them to reroute the clutch cable from it’s original position? Rerouting the clutch cable obviously doesn’t alter the sheath or cable length, but could cause binding.

It does not appear that there are any handle bar risers. But I will take a picture of that and I will take some of the body side panels off to get some pictures of the cable routing as well.

Thank you all for your help and ideas.

 

[762x54]

here's a link to the Honda part exploded view:

2012 Honda NC700X AC CLUTCH (1) | Babbitts Honda Parts House

Shop online for OEM CLUTCH (1) parts that fit your 2012 Honda NC700X AC, search all our OEM Parts or call at (231)737-4542

www.hondapartshouse.com

It sounds like maybe you've looked at this already, but did you use oem parts or aftermarket stuff? Sometime aftermarket is incorrect. I notice that while all the
metal plates appear the same, there a three different friction plates required. If everything you replaced is not oem and assembled in the correct order this may be your problem. Also, the clutch plates should be soaked overnight in new oil of the type you use in the engine and the engine oil and filter should be replaced
with new oil and filter when replacing the clutch. Be sure to use an oil made specifically for motorcycles with a wet clutch.

 

[potter0o]

I have always had the same issue. I just thought it was a quirk that I had to live with. I have added adjustable levers which help me tweak it on the fly. To be fair I could do a better job of lubing my clutch cable. I have a new cable on order with some other bits and bobs from japan at the moment. My cable is almost out of adjustment at the bottom.

 

[Duff1234]

here's a link to the Honda part exploded view:

2012 Honda NC700X AC CLUTCH (1) | Babbitts Honda Parts House

Shop online for OEM CLUTCH (1) parts that fit your 2012 Honda NC700X AC, search all our OEM Parts or call at (231)737-4542

www.hondapartshouse.com

It sounds like maybe you've looked at this already, but did you use oem parts or aftermarket stuff? Sometime aftermarket is incorrect. I notice that while all the
metal plates appear the same, there a three different friction plates required. If everything you replaced is not oem and assembled in the correct order this may be your problem. Also, the clutch plates should be soaked overnight in new oil of the type you use in the engine and the engine oil and filter should be replaced
with new oil and filter when replacing the clutch. Be sure to use an oil made specifically for motorcycles with a wet clutch.

Correct, I have reviewed that.

I used aftermarket in this case. I’ve read and seen many accounts of people using ebc or barnett without issues so I figured it should be fine.

I did soak the plates in gn4 10w30 oil and that is the same oil I’m using in it.

It did come with the narrower friction disc for the front, to allow space for the judder spring seat and judder spring. And it had one that was also slightly different for the back friction disc.

I measured the stack that came out of the clutch and I believe it was 1.31 or 2.31 in thick (frictions and metals both). But I will confirm that this evening. Then the new pack (frictions and metals) were right around 1.41 or 2.41 in thick. I’m not sure of the exact specs for how thick the pack should be, but I have ordered a service manual that will hopefully have that info in it. But that manual won’t be here for 5-7 days. If anyone has a service manual and it lists that spec, I would appreciate any insight on that.

 

[670cc]

I have always had the same issue. I just thought it was a quirk that I had to live with. I have added adjustable levers which help me tweak it on the fly. To be fair I could do a better job of lubing my clutch cable. I have a new cable on order with some other bits and bobs from japan at the moment. My cable is almost out of adjustment at the bottom.

Don’t feel bad about your poor clutch cable lubing habits. Prior discussion here on the forum says that Honda cables have a self lubing sheath and additional maintenance lubing is not required or recommended.

 

[potter0o]

Don’t feel bad about your poor clutch cable lubing habits. Prior discussion here on the forum says that Honda cables have a self lubing sheath and additional maintenance lubing is not required or recommended.

I had heard this and the service manual is not really helpful is this regard. I got some static from one of the techs at the cone track day for my free play and clutch adjustment. I politely smiled and nodded. I will give the old cable some lube when my new cable arrives to see if that changes anything.

 

[762x54]

Correct, I have reviewed that.

I used aftermarket in this case. I’ve read and seen many accounts of people using ebc or barnett without issues so I figured it should be fine.

I did soak the plates in gn4 10w30 oil and that is the same oil I’m using in it.

It did come with the narrower friction disc for the front, to allow space for the judder spring seat and judder spring. And it had one that was also slightly different for the back friction disc.

I measured the stack that came out of the clutch and I believe it was 1.31 or 2.31 in thick (frictions and metals both). But I will confirm that this evening. Then the new pack (frictions and metals) were right around 1.41 or 2.41 in thick. I’m not sure of the exact specs for how thick the pack should be, but I have ordered a service manual that will hopefully have that info in it. But that manual won’t be here for 5-7 days. If anyone has a service manual and it lists that spec, I would appreciate any insight on that.

It sounds like you did everything right. I don't know if the .1 inch difference in thickness would be a problem. Did you check all the plates to make sure they were flat with no warpage? Another thing to inspect would be the lever and perch assembly at the handle bar to be sure it is oem and not some aftermarket part that wouldn't offer the correct amount of travel. Also, make sure there is no wear in the pivot bolt and that it is the correct bolt and inspect the hole in the clutch lever where the cable end fits to be sure it is not worn.

 

[Duff1234]

Okay here are the photos. I have the pictures of the handle bar mounts. Doesn’t appear to be any risers.

Also pictures of the clutch lever. From the top:


From the bottom:


And at the mount to the bars:



Then I traced the clutch cable and there’s only one point where it’s attached to the frame. It’s not pinched anywhere and has a little bit of movement at the strap point at the top of this picture:

Then a shot of the clutch adjustment on the side case:

 

[Duff1234]

I also have a few pictures of the clutch parts inside the side casing.

The outer basket with the washer that goes in the center of it:



And the back of the inner basket:


The old friction discs with new metals:


New friction discs and old metals:


Old frictions and new metals installed:


The other part of the inner basket with the judder spring washer and judder spring:


The washers and nut for the inner basket:


Springs, radial ball bearing, clutch lifter plate and center rod:


And the clutch lifter rod and push rod:

 

[Duff1234]

The pivot bolt/screw and clutch handle appear to be in good condition. Not sure if it’s original but fits perfect, no slip and smoothly operates:

 

[7ncx]

Just happened to be reading this thread today as I have a 2012 NC and will eventually be replacing the clutch with either EBC or Barnett. Appears the stock disc thickness is 2.62-2.78 with a service limit of 2.3. Anyway attached are some pics from my Honda 2012-2013 NC700X Honda service manual. There's more to the "Clutch" section in the manual but these seemed what you were looking for. Unlikely worn clutch/parts with only 6,400 miles. I have close to 27,000 miles on original clutch and cable. I haven't seen much about clutch problems with these. Maybe previous owner was using as a learner bike or used the wrong engine oil that's not JASO MA? Also in the troubleshooting section simply too much engine oil will cause excessive drag on the clutch. Though Honda does not recommend lubing the cable, I do and the lever and case cable pivot points and cable ends makes a difference for fast shifts and easier clutch pull. Let us know what happens.

 

[CamaroEric]

The only difference I see is that I have a lot more threads showing at the clutch handle, but I'm running a CTX cable, maybe not apples to apples.

I have about 1mm gap at the pivot before the clutch starts to disengage, but it does fully disengage about half way to the grip. I can two-finger the clutch with my other two still between the grip and lever and I am basically totally disengaged, no noticeable drag.

 

[762x54]

Everything I see looks OK with the exception of the nut missing from the clutch lever pivot bolt. That shouldn't affect operation but might indicate that someone was there before you. Have you disassembled the actuator mechanism in the right crankcase cover (where the lower end of the cable attaches) and inspected it
for damage and correct assembly? I'm sure you know that you can safely adjust the cable free play to almost nothing. As long as you have a tiny bit of play when
the engine is fully warmed you will have full engagement of the clutch. Be sure you have free play when the bars are turned fully right and left.

 

[Duff1234]

I believe that I may have found the issue. Thank you so much for posting the pictures from the service manual! I measured the friction discs that were in the clutch already and they are at about 2.8mm. Service manual stated it should be between 2.3mm (absolute minimum and replace immediately) to 2.78mm. The new discs I ordered are about 3.2 to 3.4mm.

That should solve it, with everything else looking fine. I’ve inspected the push rod and lifter rod to make sure there’s not any gouges, wear or other abnormal things and everything there looks fine.

I will be ordering some oem Honda friction discs. Where do you all prefer getting yours from? I have been looking at Revzilla, hondapartshouse, and motosport. Any others you prefer or recommend? Or have the fastest shipping?