Wiring LED Lights with Honda's Acc Harness

[Ruggybuggy]

No, there are 3-Positions on those connector housings and theres 3-4 of those plugs that you refer to as "2-Pin". There's also a single 4-Position on the connector housing with only 3 wires installed.

These are the mating connectors, CON-30 cable Assembly and CON-40 cable Assembly that I used for my installation...

I have three of these connectors. The brown wire is switched 12V with key and the green is ground. These are the actual connectors off the Honda auxiliary harness.

This is the 4 terminal connector that only has three wires installed. This is the actual connector of the Honda auxiliary harness and there is only one of them. The brown wire is switched 12V with the key, the green is ground and the blue wire does nothing because it doesn't mate to any wires in on the Honda 6 way connector.

Honda 6 way connector that only has 3 wires. This is the connector that mates with the Honda auxiliary harness. The green wire is a ground wire, the blue wire is a switched 12V with the key in the run position. The red/white wire is a constant 12V and does not mate to any wire in the Honda auxiliary harness.

 

[670cc]

I have three of these connectors. The brown wire is switched 12V with key and the green is ground. These are the actual connectors off the Honda auxiliary harness.

This is the 4 terminal connector that only has three wires installed. This is the actual connector of the Honda auxiliary harness and there is only one of them. The brown wire is switched 12V with the key, the green is ground and the blue wire does nothing because it doesn't mate to any wires in on the Honda 6 way connector.

Honda 6 way connector that only has 3 wires. This is the connector that mates with the Honda auxiliary harness. The green wire is a ground wire, the blue wire is a switched 12V with the key in the run position. The red/white wire is a constant 12V and does not mate to any wire in the Honda auxiliary harness.

Yep. You got it. What you call blue, Honda calls Violet. If your 6P connector had a bright blue wire, it would be the bright signal.

 

[Ruggybuggy]

OK, I've become suspicious than there's more to the story here with this option cable thing, being that several different description have been provide, none of which seem to match the OP's situation. So here's the deal. I looked at the schematics for the 2012 NC700X,XA,XD, and SA. The signals available at the Option 6P connector are NOT the same on all of these bike models. The wiring actually comes in three different favors!

Based on the picture that Ruggybuggy posted of his Option 6P connector, his wires appear to be Green (ground), Violet/Red (switched 12 volts from the option relay), and Red/White (12 volts coming off a different fuse - possibly 24 hour power). If there is no Blue wire (and by blue I don't mean dark blue or violet) in the Option 6P connector, the bike does not have the bright light signal available for the accessory harness. This wiring appears to be the same as the NC700SA model.

So there you have it. Mystery solved.

For future reference, 2012 NC700 models, signals available at the Option 6P connector are:

SA: Ground, Switched 12v, Unswitched 12v
X & XA: Above plus 12v when brights on
XD: all of the above plus left turn signal and right turn signal.
It appears the 750XA is wired like the 700SA.

An additional clarification, as was stated in the post above, the accessory harness has three connectors with 3 pin positions, but having wire terminals only in the outer two positions. The fourth connector is a 4 position connector having wire terminals in only 3 of the positions.

Thank you very much for this post. Seems weird that Honda would drop the high beam switch wire. I wonder what the intent of the red/white constant 12V is for? So where would be a good close location to tap into to power the LED lights for high beam control. The light use very little power and only draw 1.5 amps.

 

[670cc]

I suppose the constant 12 volt wire would be good for an alarm system. Maybe that's why the turn signals are involved, too. To flash when the alarm goes off?

 

[MZ5]

You could tap into the power wire supplying the high beam on the headlight, I suppose? Or just tap into switched +12V and run through an aux switch to directly control the LEDs, but I think that's not what you're after(?).

 

[Ruggybuggy]

You could tap into the power wire supplying the high beam on the headlight, I suppose? Or just tap into switched +12V and run through an aux switch to directly control the LEDs, but I think that's not what you're after(?).

The high beam tap is what I'm after. Have the AUX LED's on with the high beam and off on low beam for night time riding. I plan on running them on high beam during the day for the triangulation effect and make sure I'm SEEN.

I was hoping for a closer spot to the trunk where all the other wiring takes place.

Anyone have a wiring diagram of the headlight circuit? Man I can't wait until the shop manual comes in. Working blind sucks!

 

[670cc]

Advanced search - search in title only - "schematic" :

http://nc700-forum.com/forum/nc700-technical/4662-electrical-schematic.html Link in Post 2.

 

[Ruggybuggy]

Advanced search - search in title only - "schematic" :

http://nc700-forum.com/forum/nc700-technical/4662-electrical-schematic.html Link in Post 2.

You truly are an asset to this forum. Thanks a heap for your help.

 

[Ruggybuggy]

I followed the hi/low beam switch wire down to a large connector on the left side and found my allusive blue wire. Tap into it to power the aux lights and it's all good. Thanks everyone for the help.

 

[telecam]

So, I have a 2014 NC700X and found myself in the same situation than RugbyBuggy, could not find a blue high-beam trigger wire on Honda's Sub Harness, there is blue wire but it's not connected to anything... So, I tapped straight into the blue wire coming out of the headight, that is the high-beam. Everything works fine but when I start the engine, the LEDs flicker and intensity is all over the place. I double check wiring on the Skene IQ275 controller and everything is fine. Once I kill the engine, the LEDs work perfectly and dim to a lower intensity when switching high-beam off. Anyone has any idea of what is at fault?

 

[Gbjbany]

the iq275 does change intensity when you turn on, its the time for you to start the engine and also confiure the intensity settings
I assume you know this from the documentation, but just in case, so its other than that.

I have the same set up and did the same with the hl blue wire, i assume you connected to the sub harness for live and earth ? It sounds like a bad connection to me, I had issues with loose wires because of the number of wires you need to connect. So thats all i can suggest

Jeff

 

[telecam]

Thanks Gbjbany,

What's weird is that it's all working perfectly with the engine off. That is, I turn the ignition on with my lights switch in low-beam, see the 2-flash sequence and then the LEDs drop down to the default 20% (factory preset). Note that I did not connect anything to the yellow wire. Then when I switch to high-beam, the LEDs go to full power, neat! Then, I soon as I start the engine, LEDs start flashing and brightness goes all over the place. The flicker goes away if I hold the throttle to 3,000 or 4,000RPM but if I let it go to idle, it's all over the place again. I thought I may have had a loose wire that may be affected by vibration but I checked every connection and could not find any fault. I am a bit at loss... I sent an email to Skene Design, we'll see what they have to say. The only factor at play maybe the LEDs themselves but again, since they work fine under ignition power, I don't know why they would act up with the engine running. I have Model 21 LEDs from ADVMonster, they used XHP50 CREE LEDs. The only wire that could possibly be affected by the engine running is the switch power wire I tapped to on the Sub Harness. I'll use a multimeter to check its current output while engine is running.

Cheers,

 

[spets]

I use the same Model 21 LEDs and I have the older Skene IQ-175 controller, and I don't get any flicker at all on my 2012 NC when the engine is running.

it almost sounds like a bad connection somewhere?

 

[telecam]

Ok, problem solved. The hectic behavior of the controller was the result of being too close to an electric component (looks like a big capacitor of some sort...). I relocated the unit and everything is good now. See photo of my installation attached. So to sum up:

- There is no high-beam blue trigger wire in the Sub-Harness on a 2014 NC700XD (US Model). You need to tap into the blue wire coming out of the headlight bulb assembly
- Do not install the IQ-275 controller anywhere close to the electrical device shown on my installation photo, it will make it run wild.

Thanks for those who jumped on the thread and tried to help.

Take care,

T.

 

[Gbjbany]

Interesting - I had my Skene controller where you moved it to - never occured to me to tell you that though ! Good detective work

 

[mercurydog47]

Warning: The 12 volt Honda accessory socket comes with a 1 amp fuse which has an element that looks like a hair in it. When installing it please be sure the fuse is accessible for later on. I spent 170 dollars at a dealership changing a fuse because the fuse holder was buried in bodywork. Second, the dealer installed a 5 amp fuse because one amp is good for nothing and a cellphone charger could blow the fuse. If 5 amp worries you at least go down to a 3 amp.

 

[randypower]

Warning: The 12 volt Honda accessory socket comes with a 1 amp fuse which has an element that looks like a hair in it. ...

I learned this lesson too when I plugged a small air pump into it and it blew out immediately. What a useless "utility" with a 1-amp fuse! What were the Honda engineers thinking?

Anyway, I paid the dealer (only about $100, guess I got a better deal) to replace the fuse, but didn't think at the time to put a larger capacity in.

If anyone has some helpful hints on what fairings/parts have to be removed to get to the fuse, and the sequence of them, I'd appreciate it. I got a little lost when I tried it last time and wasn't sure I had made any real progress after removing a few layers of plastics. (That's when I took it to the dealer.)

 

[670cc]

I learned this lesson too when I plugged a small air pump into it and it blew out immediately. What a useless "utility" with a 1-amp fuse! What were the Honda engineers thinking?

Anyway, I paid the dealer (only about $100, guess I got a better deal) to replace the fuse, but didn't think at the time to put a larger capacity in.

If anyone has some helpful hints on what fairings/parts have to be removed to get to the fuse, and the sequence of them, I'd appreciate it. I got a little lost when I tried it last time and wasn't sure I had made any real progress after removing a few layers of plastics. (That's when I took it to the dealer.)

If you get the side panels off, take that opportunity to add a proper 12 volt outlet and heavier wire. Connect it directly to the battery via an inline fuse. Then you'll have an outlet that can run a compressor, and you can use it as an inlet for battery charging.

I don't know what Honda was thinking offering a 1 amp outlet and then hiding the fuse. The whole Honda Accessory harness is fused at 7.5 amps. The Harness is a nice accessory to have for other add-ons, but not for the purpose of running a 12 volt outlet.

 

[randypower]

If you get the side panels off, take that opportunity to add a proper 12 volt outlet and heavier wire. Connect it directly to the battery via an inline fuse. Then you'll have an outlet that can run a compressor, and you can use it as an inlet for battery charging.

Yeah, great suggestion, Greg.