Strategies for reducing footpeg vibrations?

kaz

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I did my first "long" trip on the NC, around 180km. The buzzing of the pegs gave me a bit of an after effect in my feet. Was wondering. These seem to be our peg parts -

pegs.jpg

what happens is you use a rubber covered pin or a thinner pin wrapped in a piece of rubber? Or squeeze some rubber washers between that spring and the connecting walls of the peg (in the middle where the pin is running)?

I searched "rubber mounted pegs", doesn't seem to be a ready made contraption that I could find, only rubber covers like this -
FOOTPEG-RUBBERS-Plugs-foot-Peg-for-SUZUKI-AX100-MOTORBIKE.jpg

Are these any good?

What's the proper spot to rubberize so that the buzzing doesn't reach your feet?
 

Deckyon

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You know, 30,000+ miles and not once have I noticed buzzing at the foot pegs.

What do you have that isnt stock? Sprockets, Chain, larger/smaller than suggested tires, bash plate? Are your wheels/chain aligned properly? Brakes in good repair?
 

kaz

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I got the brake fluid replaced before the trip, front pads were replaced a little before that. Tires are stock sizes, no defensive metal pieces on the bike. No idea about the chain/ sprockets, I did put the RSV rear shock in lately.
 
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dduelin

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I don't know where this thread will end up going but it sounds very familar. It's pretty much normal for the foot pegs to have a low frequency pulse at low rpms in a high gear.

The NC700/750 engine has design elements that produce a low frequency pulsing or vibration during normal operation. Do you notice the vibration in 6th gear at 50-60 mph? An easy thing to do is hold the bike in 5th gear under 65 mph.
 
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kaz

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I usually hit 6th gear around 95 100 kmh/ 60 mph when accelerating, shift back to fifth around 70 kmh/ 44 mph. Trying to avoid passing 4K rpm, feels nicer (and I assumed more economic)

Isn't this easily solved by using rubber bushings of some sort in the pegs regardless of engine vibration?

Edit: What if I get such replacement set, and expand the holes where the pin goes? Then perhaps I can just pad the inside of the holes with some silicone or rubber?
 
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dduelin

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I usually hit 6th gear around 95 100 kmh/ 60 mph when accelerating, shift back to fifth around 70 kmh/ 44 mph. Trying to avoid passing 4K rpm, feels nicer (and I assumed more economic)

Isn't this easily solved by using rubber bushings of some sort in the pegs regardless of engine vibration?

Edit: What if I get such replacement set, and expand the holes where the pin goes? Then perhaps I can just pad the inside of the holes with some silicone or rubber?
"Isn't this easily solved by using rubber bushings of some sort in the pegs regardless of engine vibration?"

We tend to avoid or try and fix things that bother or annoy us and since the pulsing never bothered me I have nothing further to offer other than avoid the rpm operation that provokes it.
 
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mzflorida

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I don't know how to mitigate the vibration. But there are countless threads and product recommendations over on advrider.com that might give you things to consider.
 

rippin209

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As it's been said already, it's not as simple as it might seem.

These are the pegs I installed, cheap and slightly better then OEM

Motorcycle Silver Front Black Rubber Inlay Foot Pegs Footpeg Footrest Bracket Set Fits For Honda CB600 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 Hornet600 CBR 600 CB 600 CB 500/400 VTR 250 W/Y NTV 6 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W8VZWXB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZfWaEbH62SZVG
 
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Bugs

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I have these attached to my bike:


Not cheap at all but in my 4000km vacation drive I had absolutely no problems. They can also be lowered and are wider which makes standing on them easier. If I see a "solution" of a few dollars/euro's than I am always a bit skeptical. Ofcourse, my solution is all the way at the other end of the spectrum. But there is probably some solution in the middle that works for you.
 
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kaz

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Thanks all. I'm sure it's simple once we figure out how it's done ;)

I have these attached to my bike:


Not cheap at all but in my 4000km vacation drive I had absolutely no problems. They can also be lowered and are wider which makes standing on them easier. If I see a "solution" of a few dollars/euro's than I am always a bit skeptical. Ofcourse, my solution is all the way at the other end of the spectrum. But there is probably some solution in the middle that works for you.
These seem to have regular metal connections, guess it means more rubber on the pegs themselves helps get the job done?

I oredered these covers-
www.aliexpress.com/item/4000127676359.html

and these pegs -
s-l1600 (4).jpg
where maybe I can expand the holes the pin goes in and then wrap the pin with silicone / bicycle tire? I'll update if / when I get any measureable improvement
 

rippin209

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I would think the mounting points are narrow enough that it wouldn't be long before rubber on the pin was work through in spots
 

rippin209

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I have these attached to my bike:


Not cheap at all but in my 4000km vacation drive I had absolutely no problems. They can also be lowered and are wider which makes standing on them easier. If I see a "solution" of a few dollars/euro's than I am always a bit skeptical. Ofcourse, my solution is all the way at the other end of the spectrum. But there is probably some solution in the middle that works for you.
Those are some awesome looking pegs and I like the ability to lower them, my concern is any time I've dropped my NC (3 times now) it snaps off a peg, that's a big deterrent for me to consider spending so much on pegs.
I actually snapped one of the OEM pegs off by dropping a very large ratchet ( 3/4" ratchet I was using it to remove the rear tire) I dropped it next to my NC it was falling straight down and hit the peg on its way to the ground, the peg just snapped right off at the pin
 

Bugs

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These seem to have regular metal connections, guess it means more rubber on the pegs themselves helps get the job done?
Yeah there is more rubber, but I also think that the wider pads make it less vibrating since the weight of your foot/boots are distributed over a larger area.

Those are some awesome looking pegs and I like the ability to lower them, my concern is any time I've dropped my NC (3 times now) it snaps off a peg, that's a big deterrent for me to consider spending so much on pegs.
I actually snapped one of the OEM pegs off by dropping a very large ratchet ( 3/4" ratchet I was using it to remove the rear tire) I dropped it next to my NC it was falling straight down and hit the peg on its way to the ground, the peg just snapped right off at the pin
I ordered these after an accident with a car where my OEM foot-peg was broken off. The OEM foot-peg broke off at the joint, I would be surprised that these would break off at the joint, they are allot more sturdy. (Although thinking about it right now I rather have the foot-peg be broken off than that something on my bike is bend out of shape :rolleyes:)
 
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kaz

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Would it be possible to take the entire contraption that holds the pegs -

s-l1600.jpg

and connect it with longer screws, with some rubber washers on the side touching the bike? If so, which type of washers would you recommend?
 

Bugs

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Sounds a bit rigorous to me, but if you use longer bolts to compensate for the extra space it needs to bridge and they are high quality bolts than it should be fine. By the way, what boots are you wearing when you are riding? Do they have hard soles or soft ones? This could also make a difference.
 
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