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Steering damper...

I had the same problem with my VTX, the front would shake on decel if your hands weren't on the bars. I swapped the bearings in the front for the tapered type and didn't have the problem again for a while. Couple years later I let go of the bars just to see if all was still right with the world, and was greeted with a less pronounced shake. So while not a perfect fix, it did lessen the problem, and to be honest the steering did seem to feel better/smoother. Didn't seem to deflect as much when hitting bumps mid corner.
Just my opinion, your mileage may vary.. Was the bike ever dangerous before/after, NO. Not any more than normal anyway! :)
 
This is my experience with this bike(X),,regarding hands free,I sometimes take both hands of and ride maybe half a mile or so ( I have a GO Cruise) I get no shaking ,no wobbles,its just easy to steer with my knees,,(in case you are wondering I travel late at night ,with 120 miles of slab to cover,after a 100 you are either going flat out or playing games) so no problems there...But I have been in a tank slapping situation...After 120 of slab I have about 20 miles of twistys..Well I homing in on my destination and gunning it abit,,,I took some bends at lets say adventurous speeds and came to a rail track which I went across with a slight lend on,,the bike immediately went into a tank slapper,the steering head wobbled abit and it threw me out the seat,but no sweat she settle down as soon as I was across the track..Yes I know totally irresponsible!!! and going acroos a rail track leaned over is totally not recommended,,I had to stop to calm my nerves abit and pick up my seat cushion.. But the point is I do not think there is any problem with the bike,and really I doubt there is any need for a steering damper...Steering bearings I know naff all about !!!!
 
Price caged roller bearings against tapered roller bearings and see which are cheaper. Caged rollers are not cheap compared to tapered rollers.

Honda uses caged roller bearings because they provide lighter feel at the preload they must be torqued to in use. However caged rollers are more expensive and harder to set up correctly and shade tree mechanics will have a hard time getting the preload correctly set. Tapered rollers are less demanding to set up and tolerate a wide range of preload without premature brinelling the races.
 
Also add to the fact that a tapered roller bearing can take a much higher axial load without needing thrust bearings.

I think bearing is not the issue so much to cause wobble. My guess is checking wheel balance and alignments since it seems hit and miss for people.

As for a dampener, they are just nice safety things to have for longer ride or rough rides as well. A mild damper helps reduce fatigue on long rides, as well as can offer a bit more control on rough and slow.
 
why is it that some guys are obsessed ''with look no hands''.
all you need is a little stone etc and off you'll go.
handle bars are for steering.
if your wrist or arm hurts then you've got it set up wrong.
handle bars aren't fixed nor are levers so adjust them to suit you.
if you continue to leave go sooner or later you'll have a mishap and the we as members don't want to hear that.
and don't feed the trolls that want us off the road.
 
I'm reviving this thread since my NCX has done this since new, so it can't be a wear issue. Always had the correct air pressure, strg. head brg. adjustment and rear wheel alignment. My bike has Givi Trekker luggage, and Honda tall windscreen. If I remember correctly I was told by the experts here that I must be doing something wrong. I've never owned a bike (and I've had over 50) that has done this as bad. I typically don't ride with no hand but sometimes you need to zip a zipper or something like that. The headshake on mine is so severe that within a couple of seconds you could be on the ground. I wonder if anyone has found a stabilizer that will work. Thanks,
 
I'm curious too. I just took my hands off of the bars going about 45-50 mph. Wow! It would have turned into a tank slapper if I hadn't put my hands back on the bars. Unnerving to say the least. First bike I've ever owned that does this. I need to find a cure for it quickly.
Mike

There is something out of balance then. I can take my hands off at any speed up to "too scared to" and the bike tracks straight.
 
why is it that some guys are obsessed ''with look no hands''.
all you need is a little stone etc and off you'll go.
handle bars are for steering.
if your wrist or arm hurts then you've got it set up wrong.
handle bars aren't fixed nor are levers so adjust them to suit you.
if you continue to leave go sooner or later you'll have a mishap and the we as members don't want to hear that.
and don't feed the trolls that want us off the road.

How many people who get a new, or used bike, that can honestly say that they set it up for themselves? Don't mean to go off topic, but I personally do! You would be surprised, how much better a bike handles, with a small adjustment in position of bars and controls.

The wobbling issue as mentioned is also more pronounced, if the tyre is not seated well or balanced on the rim/wheel.

I have seen handling issues come up over the years on so many forums, and in real life. Most people would not even have a clue on how to set up a steering damper!

The NC is better in one sense that it does not have adjustable, rebound and damping, with infinite adjustments. Being able to get a bike to handle better, its not just the Rebound and damping, but a simple thing called sag, variable rider weight, style all these things make a big difference.

Once head bearings have been checked, tyre pressures, wheels balanced it should be fine. If you wanted to fit a damper, there are plenty of after market dampers available. The damper would fit around the fork, and the seems to be many places to mount onto the frame.

I hope this came across as a positive post, it is aimed to be a constructive rant.

Safe riding and try and keep them hands planted, on them bars.
 
My NC700x has done this since new, still does it (3rd set of tires). However, faster I am going, the less pronounced it is. My Suzuki C50 Boulevard does it also (always has) at low speeds (less than 15mph), but above 20, no shaking. Even my little Kawasaki KLX 250 SF does it at slow speeds. My fix, don't ride with no hands (look ma, no hands!!)-the shaking goes away even with only one hand on the bar.
 
I find this interesting. There are many things that can contribute to mild head shake. The need for damping became necessary when the desire for quicker turning motorcycles became popular. Decreasing rake and trail contributes to this. Also suspension setup with higher preloads on the rear suspension can cause the head shake on deceleration.

When we add weight to the back of the bike and bump up preload the fork dive can increase on deceleration because more weight is shifted forward compressing the forks. This in turn reduces rake and trail. This is the more common cause. But something as simple as a loose front fender can cause some front end wobble.

If the bike shows this tendency off the showroom floor I would suspect the bike was not set up properly. Something as simple as not having equal levels of fork oil in each fork can cause light wobble on deceleration. When forks compress the air above the fork oil, if levels are way off you end up with different rates in each fork causing wobble.

Since this seems to be not the norm for most owners of this model. I would think something is not quite right. If this issue only arose after accessories were added. Then adjustments may be needed to correct it. If it is wind related the damper may be the answer. It may be suspension or setup related.

I would very much like to know what the answer is. Keep us informed as to the solution.
 
I think my bike increased the amount of wag to it's bars with the addition of my hand protectors- I imagine the extra frontal real estate exposure to wind pressure could increase any tendencies, but I have no worthwhile argument to stand behind.

When I first noticed it, the bike was bone stock, with no additions, and properly inflated OEM Metzeler Z8 tires.

Whether it was different tires (TKC80's with all manner of low inflation numbers, lol), or who knows what, it doesn't do it anymore that I blatantly notice, whereas before it was: "Hey! what the...?" :eek:

With the Trax panniers and top box filled up, I can feel the front end being all squirrelly and light, not supremely confidence inspiring at higher cornering speeds, but it still doesn't do that initial wag the bars thing it did when new.

Mine never got to the tank slapper level, more of a gentle weave oscillation, but having experienced one or two tank slappers in my life, I didn't push my luck to see what would happen if I let it keep wagging, or look for bumps to go over with no hands.

On 99% of all of my bikes, I could ride at any speed that I could physically cling to the bike with no hands, for as long as I wanted, (mild-ish) cornering included. My friends and I would often have no hands (EMPTY) parking lot contests, to see how fast or slow you could go, and in circles. A few of us fell off of our bikes on occasion :eek: and the things sailed along just fine by themselves for disturbingly long distances lol :D
 
On 99% of all of my bikes, I could ride at any speed that I could physically cling to the bike with no hands, for as long as I wanted, (mild-ish) cornering included.

I'm glad someone gets it. You don't have to be a daredevil to take your hands off the bars, and I don't unless I need to. It looks like more bikes have this issue then not. The NCX is going to be my only bike from now until I get rid of it and I'd sure like to correct this.
 
What I'd really like to hear is someone that has had this issue with their NCX and cured it.

Can't satisfy your desire (NX700 specific) there yet can offer this: had the problem with a BMW once, cured with a new rear shock. I had gone through the usual suspects. Tires, air pressure, steering head bearings (shaft drive so no rear wheel mis-alignment after having frame checked). Weak shock replaced and voila! problem solved.
 
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