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Power Loss / Clunking sound debugging help request

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fore4runner

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(SOLVED - pg 2 comment with details)

Hey there,

I've recently got a 2017 NC750XA with a standard transmission (in Canada). I've got two issues and am looking for potential ideas or clues on how to debug.

Issue #1) Yesterday I got the bike back from the first service when driving it in the evening the bike lost power three times. It felt like one of the cylinders cut out and I wasn't able to maintain speed at 60 kph. The engine didn't stall out completely but I was able to get it come back to full power by putting in the clutch and revving the engine a bit. It happened three times in about 5 minutes on some back roads and then stopped completely.

Issue #2) I'm not sure if this is related or not but when driving in stop and go traffic I get a loud clunking sound intermittently when shifting into first. I can get this to happen if I'm rolling at ~6kph and I let the clutch out. When in gear and rolling at low speed the engine makes a loud clunking sound. My personal guess is that this would be a loose cam chain tensioner.

Any thoughts on what might be the issue or things that I should be checking to make sure the bike is safe to ride? Are there any scanner tools that can be used to help debug the process?
 
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What service was done? I'd be talking to whoever was messing with it.
 
Thanks for the tips. I've gone through the rest of the tank and filled it back up. In the 100 km since this happened it hasn't come up again. I'll be checking out the fuel line/filter tonight and checking in. The bike definitely doesn't run silky smooth at lower rev ranges even if the power isn't cutting out.

The service invoice was for the 1k service (inspect engine idle/brake system/steering head bearings/tire pressure/adjust and lube drive chain/tighten chassis nuts and bolts/lube all pivot points) replace (engine oil/engine oil filter and clutch oil filter).
 
There is no real serviceable fuel filter ........it is built into the fuel pump assembly in the tank.
There no reason they did any thing with the spark plugs, but just check the caps are on tight.......... same for the electrical connectors on the fuel injectors. Not easy to see best viewed from the left side in above the water pump. If your in doubt best to go back to the dealer. From our distance we are at best just guessing.

Chain too tight ???????? Has been a common issue for one reason or another. Not for power issue but noise, rough and not smooth operation.
 
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showkey said:
There is no real serviceable fuel filter ........it is built into the fuel pump assembly in the tank.
There no reason they did any thing with the spark plugs, but just check the caps are on tight.......... same for the electrical connectors on the fuel injectors. Not easy to see best viewed from the left side in above the water pump. If your in doubt best to go back to the dealer. From our distance we are at best just guessing.

Chain too tight ???????? Has been a common issue for one reason or another. Not for power issue but noise, rough and not smooth operation.
Click to expand...
I've had similar noises in the low gears- turned out to be a loose chain.
 
Hi Guys, The fuel line seemed fine, the chain did seem loose when I checked it by eye this morning (looked like >3" of play) but I didn't have a center stand so I wasn't sure if that would affect things.

On my ride last night the fuel injection warning light came on (and was on until I turned the bike off) so I think things are starting to look more like a bad fuel pump. However, I need some advice on how to get it repaired by the shop. I called them up today and explained that it isn't running great, that the power has cut out on me a couple times and that the light was on. When I mentioned that the light didn't come back on this morning they explained that there isn't anything they can do unless they can replicate the issue.

How should I best deal with this? In the past I've always had older bikes and I've always just done the repairs myself. Now that I've gone out and invested in a newer bike I feel like these things should be covered by the warranty and I'd rather not do the work myself or have to drive the bike into the ground before getting things fixed up properly. Should I just tell the shop that I'll pay for the replacement of the fuel pump myself? Right now I'm hoping that I'll be able to get the fuel injection system light to come back on at some point and then I'll be able to drive over to the shop while it's still on at the very least.

Any tips?
 
Here's my understanding of it:
It's possible the problem is stored in memory (it eventually cycles out of memory depending on starts or some such)- ask your dealer if he has the equipment to read it. Next time there's a problem light take it directly to the dealer to have the code read.
Or, when the warning light comes on- pull off the road and lower the sidestand; the warning light will blink a series of 1.3 sec blinks and 0.3 sec blinks. The long blinks are equal to 10 short blinks (I.E. one long blink and 2 shorts is error 12) Once you have that ask here or tell it to your dealer & he should be able to tell you what the indicator means.
 
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fore4runner said:
The service invoice replace (engine oil/engine oil filter and clutch oil filter).
Click to expand...

Did you buy your bike from this dealer brand new, or second hand, or a demo model, or...?

Does your invoice say clutch oil filter? A petty thing easily explained away by mere accidental inclusion or typo with a box ticked that wasn't meant to be of course, but since the manual XA version doesn't have a clutch oil filter, I might get my hackles up a bit depending on the amount of the invoice.
 
fore4runner said:
Hi Guys, The fuel line seemed fine, the chain did seem loose when I checked it by eye this morning (looked like >3" of play) but I didn't have a center stand so I wasn't sure if that would affect things.

On my ride last night the fuel injection warning light came on (and was on until I turned the bike off) so I think things are starting to look more like a bad fuel pump. However, I need some advice on how to get it repaired by the shop. I called them up today and explained that it isn't running great, that the power has cut out on me a couple times and that the light was on. When I mentioned that the light didn't come back on this morning they explained that there isn't anything they can do unless they can replicate the issue.

How should I best deal with this? In the past I've always had older bikes and I've always just done the repairs myself. Now that I've gone out and invested in a newer bike I feel like these things should be covered by the warranty and I'd rather not do the work myself or have to drive the bike into the ground before getting things fixed up properly. Should I just tell the shop that I'll pay for the replacement of the fuel pump myself? Right now I'm hoping that I'll be able to get the fuel injection system light to come back on at some point and then I'll be able to drive over to the shop while it's still on at the very least.

Any tips?
Click to expand...

Do you have a phone with the ability to take video or pictures? If not, would try to have a camera or device with me so I could document anything if it happens again.

How exactly did you check the fuel line?
 
Resolution/Follow-up

Just to follow up. The two issues are resolved.

Issue #1) Issue was with the ignition. If I turned the key it would snap into the 'on' position, however, it would only be partially 'in' and would occasionally lose connection and turn the bike off while I was driving. I guess I could have replaced the ignition, however, I've just developed a habbit to give the key a little 'left-right' wiggle (once the key in is the final on position) to make sure it is fully 'set' when turning the bike on. This seems to completely resolve the issue.

Issue #2) Clunking when shifting into first was due to a very loose drive chain. I had the bike (1000 km and then the 5000 km) serviced at the dealer and even mentioned what I was feeling, but eventually I decided to personally check the chain slack, it was far looser than recommended in the owners manual (lesson learned, I should have been on-top of this basic maintenance check myself, instead of relying on the dealership services).
 
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