Posi-Taps & LED Bar

[Texican88]

I was looking at the AdMore LED bar and was hoping I could ask you guys a few questions, considering I know nothing about electrical work:

- Is anyone familiar with Posi-Taps. Are the effective? They seem fairly easy to use.

- Will I need some sort of power booster or something like that.

Thanks.

 

[Beemerphile]

Posi-taps are solid. I prefer solder and heatshrink tubing, but Posi-taps are one of the better quick solutions.

 

[DanWill]

second that, solder and heatshrink, done correctly of course, and your guaranteed you won't have any problems in the future with the connection.

 

[HONDABIKEPRO]

second that, solder and heatshrink, done correctly of course, and your guaranteed you won't have any problems in the future with the connection.

just be carefull on the soldering, to much heat and the solder will wick up the wire and make it weak, because it will not bend or flex. dale

 

[Texican88]

thanks for the advice. looks like i'll be going to radioshack to pick up a how-to soldering kit.

 

[Craig92DA9]

I used to be a die hard solder fan.. but now i am preferring non insulated crimp connectors with good quality heat shrink tubing due to the flexibility it gives you over a rigid solder joint. That's my personal preference.

 

[showkey]

Or use an OEM style connectors. Kits can be found in several places, crimper, insulation sleeves, OEM bullet connectors......
Allows for removal in the future.

OEM-Type Bullet & Spade Electrical Connectors for 1960's through 1970's Japanese Vehicles... Bridgestone, Datsun, Hodaka, Honda, Kawasaki, Landcruiser, Suzuki, Tohatsu, VW, & Yamaha

No connection.......just a customer........many other suppliers are out there. Vintage is still used and work just fine.........some of the new terminal connectors are now miniature they can be purchasd as well.

 

[DanWill]

I don't see how a crimp connector can give you flexibility, if it flexes or moves, then eventually the wires will work themselves out of it. Not a plus in my book.

 

[Beemerphile]

Allows for removal in the future.

My SOP is to make a permanent tap to the system wiring and install a removable connector on the pigtails. Posi-taps by the way can be disconnected.

I don't see how a crimp connector can give you flexibility

A crimp connector does not "give you flexibility" it retains the flexibility of the conductor. The pan on solder connections is that the solder will wick up the wire and make it brittle a good distance past the connection. In fact, this is only true for poorly done solder joints - of which there are many. I have stopped to help stranded motorcyclists before where the problem ended up being a broken wire close to a solder joint. Having said that, solder joints can be done correctly. Mine do not wick past the amount of wire that I have removed the insulation from.

 

[bamamate]

I installed the Admore light bar this past weekend. Normally I'm a solder the joint but the design of the Positaps was very good so I used them.

 

[Texican88]

I installed the Admore light bar this past weekend. Normally I'm a solder the joint but the design of the Positaps was very good so I used them.

How do you like them? Is it bright enough to make a difference?

 

[bamamate]

I give it a tab brighter than the bike's tail/break light. If brightness is your main objection, I'd look at others. The main thing I like is the 4 quick flashes on brake application. That gets your attention. It takes ~15sec for that feature to reset which is nice in traffic so you don't annoy someone behind you. Then the scrolling turn signals also catch your attention.