NC700X Front Brake Pads

[wideguy]

Did not realize that EE pads were even made any longer for other than automotive applications. But there they are in the rear caliper of my NC. Will have to be cautious initially with the change to GG pads when the time comes and adjust lever travel accordingly. I don't think I've even seen FF pads in recent past, which might be a better initial change - anyone seen such?

I read that the rear brakes with the stock pads were pretty feeble, which is fine with me, because I almost never use them...

I'm used to bikes with lots more front brake than the NC I just bought, and read that EBC HH pads made it better. Since I've liked EBC HH pads for decades and used them for racing, I was going to buy some...

But if the stock pads are HH compound already, are the EBCs really better? Does anyone make modern race compound pads for the NC?

 

[dduelin]

The front stock pads are HH.

In objective tests the NC700X stops in 115 to 124 feet from 60 mph or right in the middle of modern sport bikes weighing 400 to 470 lbs. Some bikes are shorter a few feet, some longer a few feet. The RC51 took 116 feet, the Wee 123 to 132 feet.

The NC700X's brakes lack a bit of feel but don't lack for stopping a 500 lb bike in a reasonable distance.

 

[wideguy]

The front stock pads are HH.

In objective tests the NC700X stops in 115 to 124 feet from 60 mph or right in the middle of modern sport bikes weighing 400 to 470 lbs. Some bikes are shorter a few feet, some longer a few feet. The RC51 took 116 feet, the Wee 123 to 132 feet.

The NC700X's brakes lack a bit of feel but don't lack for stopping a 500 lb bike in a reasonable distance.

Thanks. Are there any pads that will make them feel better? A big part of good riding is confidence... Anything that gives you more confidence (but not so much that you imagine yourself to be a MotoGP contender...) will make you ride better.

I just want to feel more confident in the front brakes. Maybe it will happen with experience?

 

[dduelin]

I don't know about different pads. I've stuck to OEM on the 700X. Never changed them actually. The 2012 didn't need them replaced in 30,000 before I sold it and I'm just at 20,000 on the '15.

 

[wideguy]

I don't know about different pads. I've stuck to OEM on the 700X. Never changed them actually. The 2012 didn't need them replaced in 30,000 before I sold it and I'm just at 20,000 on the '15.

Oh. I'm not allowed to just say 'Oh', so I can't.

 

[rippin209]

Haven't had to change pads in over 60,000 miles, but something seems to be rubbing:

I hope I'm wrong but it looks like your rotor is next to your brake pads instead of in between them. How well does it stop? On the plus side the brake pads look like new

 

[670cc]

Haven't had to change pads in over 60,000 miles, but something seems to be rubbing:

Well anybody can spot that problem right away. The waves on the outer edges of the rotor wore off! Replace the rotor!

 

[supertux1]

Haven't had to change pads in over 60,000 miles, but something seems to be rubbing:

This is a joke right?

 

[supertux1]

Thanks. Are there any pads that will make them feel better? A big part of good riding is confidence... Anything that gives you more confidence (but not so much that you imagine yourself to be a MotoGP contender...) will make you ride better.

I just want to feel more confident in the front brakes. Maybe it will happen with experience?

You'll find a lot of things on the NC are the way they are and 'good enough' to keep the bike at a certain budget price. The brakes are one of those things. You could try bleeding them or replacing the lines with steel braid, but at the end of the day it's still a single caliper basic design. Cleaning helps too.

 

[Grey1one]

just an alignment problem

 

[wideguy]

You'll find a lot of things on the NC are the way they are and 'good enough' to keep the bike at a certain budget price. The brakes are one of those things. You could try bleeding them or replacing the lines with steel braid, but at the end of the day it's still a single caliper basic design. Cleaning helps too.

Yes, I agree, but the brakes are something I want to be just a bit better. I'll probably try a set of EBC HH pads.

 

[Antarius]

My stock pads lasted 36k miles and they were done. They were at the wear mark which is very very very thin and done. Front brakes that is...

 

[Fuzzy]

My stock pads lasted 36k miles and they were done. They were at the wear mark which is very very very thin and done. Front brakes that is...

Must be a lot of highway driving. I think that is much more than most get out of front pads.

 

[SergeantChuck]

If you look at post #22 of this thread, you'll see what my pads looked like after 30,00 miles. I ride in a lot of heavy traffic and have several stops along my route to work but my pads were still in good shape at 30K. I'm not really surprised someone made it to 36K before needing a change.

 

[eastbayandy]

You'll find a lot of things on the NC are the way they are and 'good enough' to keep the bike at a certain budget price. The brakes are one of those things. You could try bleeding them or replacing the lines with steel braid, but at the end of the day it's still a single caliper basic design. Cleaning helps too.

What is the best way to clean them?

 

[supertux1]

What is the best way to clean them?

I remove the pads and scrape any brake dust out of where it isn't supposed to be, around the edges, in the groove, on the back. Blast it with some brake cleaner.

Inside the caliper I use dish soap, hot water and a toothbrush to get the gunk out. Follow up with brake cleaner to get the stubborn bits out.

Also check to see that pistons aren't stuck. Push on one of them, the other should move out, and when it's out further than normal you can clean the normally recessed part of the piston and push it back in, do the other one. Don't need to push it too much, it can fall out, then you have a mess...

Lots of YouTube videos on this, just don't twist up or stress the lines. I hang the whole caliper with some cord over a bucket of hot soapy water.