Changed break pads

[Hank]

I am not mechanical. When the pads get thin I usually pay someone to do it. In this case the material on one pad was completely gone and it was scoring the brake disc, so I did not want to ride it to the shop.

I removed the old pads easily, put the new ones in there, and hit a wall. I could compress the piston but it pushed back out before I could get the pin in, and the antiwobble springs pushed the pads at a weird angle as well. My aftermarket service manual suggested loosening the brake fluid reservoir, but the one on the handlebars seemed to make no difference. I did not realize at that moment there was another reservoir under the seat. Apparently the only way to drain or open that one is to take it off. No thanks.

Finally found an experienced neighbor who had some sort of special tool and we (really he) got it done. Rear brakes seem ok, kind of mushy, but they were always like that. I survived the process but I did not enjoy it much.

The O’Reilly Automotive web site did not list my 2015 nc 700x DCT. I suspect someone just didn’t put it in. I read the guy the numbers on the Nissin pads and it didn’t help. I took them down there and they matched them up.

 

[670cc]

When pushing the piston back to accommodate the thickness of the new pads, often some brake fluid will need to be removed from the reservoir at the brake master cylinder. For the rear brake this would be the translucent plastic reservoir above and behind the brake pedal. To access the rear brake fluid reservoir, it is a simple job to remove one bolt and pull the reservoir outward to gain better access. Also at this time it would make sense to bleed through new brake fluid anyway.

If one pad was worn and the other was not, or if the pads wore at an angle, it might suggest the slider pins are binding up.