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mounting givi monokey cases (pics)

Does anyone know if the OEM Honda bags are easily removable? I think I would like the ability to just remove the whole bag to take into work, home, etc...

Yes, I had a demo of the Honda bags at a dealership. Very slick mounting system. They are on and off in literally seconds and virtually nothing left on the bike when the bags are off. Very clean. Also, the bags are keyed to the ignition. One key for everything is a big plus in my books. The downside is the price... somewhere around $1200.00 CDN for two panniers, (29 litres each) and 45 litre top box. They are well made and do look good on the bike. I've never seen a good picture of them, in person they look much better. After owning Givi's in the past and seeing these in action, I would go for the Honda cases. Build quality seems to be on par with Givi but I like the mounting system much better - it's very similar to some BMW case mounts (R1200R/RT). I think the Honda cases look classier on and off the bike.
 
I have a set of E36 side bags and a E46 top case on my Vstrom that I am taking off to trade it in on my X.I was going to sell them and get Alum Panniers but I really like the GIVI's and this would be the 3rd bike I have had these bags on so maybe I will keep them.Does anybody know where to get a Givi mounting kit # PL1111,everyplace is out of stock !!.
 
These bags do look good and they carry more than the OEM bags, but I like to ride some days with bags and some days without and the fact that, with the OEM set, when you take the bags off the bike you wouldn't even know the bike was set up for bags. That clean look is worth the price to me.
I've gotta get some dry lubricant for the locks for mine because these are the most difficult locks I've ever had for getting the key in and out. Sometimes takes two or three tries..
A little lubricant and these will be perfect!
 
I agee. (and this is my very first post...ever!) The photos are well done. I understand much better how that thing attaches. The whole Givi setup (saddlebags and trunk and mounts) is about $1000? What is the cost of the Honda bags and trunk?

I notice the trunk has additional tail lights. How are those wired in? Did you have to cut into existing tail light wiring?
 
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the support structures look very simple. I'm thinking of making those myself out of aluminum "flatbar". Has anyone made their own? Photos?
 
I agee. (and this is my very first post...ever!) The photos are well done. I understand much better how that thing attaches. The whole Givi setup (saddlebags and trunk and mounts) is about $1000? What is the cost of the Honda bags and trunk?

I notice the trunk has additional tail lights. How are those wired in? Did you have to cut into existing tail light wiring?

The Honda rear luggage complete set up including the brushed side panels lists for $1490, but you can buy it at 25% discount for $1117.

Honda's marketing department hatched a great money making plan when they decided to sell the bike cheap, but all the luggage stuff "a la carte".

Most often, what looks like rear lights on trunks are actually just reflectors. Some have lights, or have available light kits. In that case yes, you would tap into the bike's taillight wiring.

Greg
 
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Most often what looks like rear lights on trunks and are called "reflectors" don't reflect, which makes you wonder why they put them there at all.

Seriously, how much more expense and trouble would it be for Give to make them actual reflectors? Barring that, they ought to at least stop calling them reflectors.
 
Most often what looks like rear lights on trunks and are called "reflectors" don't reflect, which makes you wonder why they put them there at all.

This is just my opinion (which my wife tells me should only be used as a source of amusement), but I'm guessing that Givi includes the "reflectors" on most cases to give you the golden opportunity to buy their accessory light kits.

Bob
 
Most often what looks like rear lights on trunks and are called "reflectors" don't reflect, which makes you wonder why they put them there at all.

This is just my opinion (which my wife tells me should only be used as a source of amusement), but I'm guessing that Givi includes the "reflectors" on most cases to give you the golden opportunity to buy their accessory light kits.

Bob

I'm glad they did because I put Admore lighting kits in mine.
 
Most often what looks like rear lights on trunks and are called "reflectors" don't reflect, which makes you wonder why they put them there at all.

This is just my opinion (which my wife tells me should only be used as a source of amusement), but I'm guessing that Givi includes the "reflectors" on most cases to give you the golden opportunity to buy their accessory light kits.

Bob

if the existing lights have two wires going in (one hot, one ground) then it would be relatively easy to solder on a female stereo miniature connector (like the hole on an IPod where the headphones plug in)... then on the trunk light you could solder on the "male" end of a stereo min. connect.. thus you'd be able to connect new lights just by plugging in. I want to try that, but I admit it's not fun to spend that much money on a brand new nc700x (which I haven't done yet) and then start hacking the wiring!
(a moment's thought tells me this may not be quite that easy because brake lights have 3 states not just ON/OFF... a brake light can be OFF/ON/ and BRIGHT.... so the actual wiring may be more complicated. .. hmmmmmm)

The reason I would attempt any of this is cost! I am shocked at how much that stuff costs. $1400 for a fiber glass box! Yikes.... I'd rather buy something and adapt it myself. The rear platform seems like a good place to start since the factory item is expensive and duplicating what it does... seems like it would be easy. The supports for that platform bolt on the the place where the rider handles are... that's where the strength comes from.. Once the supports are on, now you have to figure out how to build a platform on them that would allow you to bolt on an aftermarket trunk....
I think me and Home Depot could do that.... all I need is the box...preferably with a back rest for my passenger.
 
if the existing lights have two wires going in (one hot, one ground) then it would be relatively easy to solder on a female stereo miniature connector (like the hole on an IPod where the headphones plug in)... then on the trunk light you could solder on the "male" end of a stereo min. connect.. thus you'd be able to connect new lights just by plugging in. I want to try that, but I admit it's not fun to spend that much money on a brand new nc700x (which I haven't done yet) and then start hacking the wiring!
(a moment's thought tells me this may not be quite that easy because brake lights have 3 states not just ON/OFF... a brake light can be OFF/ON/ and BRIGHT.... so the actual wiring may be more complicated. .. hmmmmmm)


The reason I would attempt any of this is cost! I am shocked at how much that stuff costs. $1400 for a fiber glass box! Yikes.... I'd rather buy something and adapt it myself. The rear platform seems like a good place to start since the factory item is expensive and duplicating what it does... seems like it would be easy. The supports for that platform bolt on the the place where the rider handles are... that's where the strength comes from.. Once the supports are on, now you have to figure out how to build a platform on them that would allow you to bolt on an aftermarket trunk....
I think me and Home Depot could do that.... all I need is the box...preferably with a back rest for my passenger.

For a basic topbox with backrest you may want to look at the Bestem. http://nc700-forum.com/forum/nc700-mods/2046-bestem-low-cost-topbox.html

For wiring I found that rockauto.com has 3 post weather pack male/female connectors with pigtails (ground, tail, brake) for $5.36 each. I'll be ordering them soon to use as fairly quick disconnect for the topbox wiring.
 
(a moment's thought tells me this may not be quite that easy because brake lights have 3 states not just ON/OFF... a brake light can be OFF/ON/ and BRIGHT.... so the actual wiring may be more complicated. .. hmmmmmm)

The reason I would attempt any of this is cost! I am shocked at how much that stuff costs. $1400 for a fiber glass box! Yikes.... I'd rather buy something and adapt it myself. .

Two clarifications:

Tail light is always on and brake light is on or off. To get those lights to the box would take 3 wires, tail, brake and ground.

Luggage three boxes and all the attaching hardware retail at or about $1400 as mentioned discounts can be found.

I think the milk crate is a great alternative>:eek::eek::D:eek:
 
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if the existing lights have two wires going in (one hot, one ground) then it would be relatively easy to solder on a female stereo miniature connector (like the hole on an IPod where the headphones plug in)... then on the trunk light you could solder on the "male" end of a stereo min. connect.. thus you'd be able to connect new lights just by plugging in. I want to try that, but I admit it's not fun to spend that much money on a brand new nc700x (which I haven't done yet) and then start hacking the wiring!
(a moment's thought tells me this may not be quite that easy because brake lights have 3 states not just ON/OFF... a brake light can be OFF/ON/ and BRIGHT.... so the actual wiring may be more complicated. .. hmmmmmm)

I'd investigate whether a miniature phone plug would be acceptable for that application. With the phone plug design, I believe you could run into problems with accidental shorting as the connector is inserted or removed. They were not designed for power applications. It would be better to use a two or three pin connector style that always keeps the conductors separated.

The brake light is either on or off. The tail light is either on or off. One wire is used for each filament (or LED array) and they share a common third wire for ground.

Greg
 
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Here is an example of what I did to lighten up my three Givi cases, with a single led strip electrical design:

kairo_us_l.jpg

The "Small-Light Line" in in fact your parking (running light power) that feeds the leds through the resistor. The value of the resistor changes the low intensity of the leds. FWIW, I've used a 20W 120 Ohm resistor with my nearly 100 brake leds. Voltage is dropped around 6 volts in my setup. Then, when you apply the brakes, full power is applied through the top diode, bypassing the resistor. Very easy setup, two wires between the bike and the case(s).

My setup is a lot more complicated than this (flashers, strobes, ....) but that gives you a basic idea.
 
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