Fuzzy
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I have a DCT. Was in second gear when I picked bike up. Had to rock it to get to first gear then neutral.
Intermittent Engine Shutting off. (not engine failure)
- Thread starter Disastrous
- Start date
I have a DCT. Was in second gear when I picked bike up. Had to rock it to get to first gear then neutral.
Saturday Morning
Member
X2 - I've heard about the bank angle sensor but not sure how effective it is. My bike's been down before and the engine didn't cut out. I had to use the kill switch.
ChilliRider
New Member
On a trip down to California I had a problem with my Vstrom with the clutch interlock--after stopping for the night the bike would not start for no apparent reason that I could find. Trucked the bike to a dealer in Bend Oregon who discovered the issue--a day of riding in especially windy weather had loosened the cable to the clutch. Small adjustment (no charge!) and I was on my way.
I am sure the issue is some simple electrical problem like that.
Good luck with it!
I am sure the issue is some simple electrical problem like that.
Good luck with it!
Disastrous
New Member
Fault Codes Revealed
I took the bike to the dealership today, 25 miles each way, without the fault reoccurring. After a couple hours of waiting (I didn’t have an appointment), I was told I had the following fault codes:
They said I would have to leave it for them to look at it further due to them not having time (due to appointments). I opted to take it home and look at it myself. I have a week off and plans to repaint the bike plus other modifications so I will already have all the body panels off.
My thoughts:
The 11-1 code is not the culprit but will need looking into anyway.
The 12-1 code makes me believe it is the fuel injector sensor due to the problem being intermittent. The bike always starts. I assume it is a loose or failing sensor but realize it might be a failing injector.
Any input would be greatly appreciated. I am not a mechanic but have been determined to do most of my own work when possible and feel capable enough to give it a go. I also am fairly god at recognizing when I am over my head.
Regards,
Mark
I took the bike to the dealership today, 25 miles each way, without the fault reoccurring. After a couple hours of waiting (I didn’t have an appointment), I was told I had the following fault codes:
| DTC Code | Function Failure | Symptom/Fail-Safe Function | Refer to page |
| 11-1 | VS Sensor No Signal
|
| 4-25 |
| 12-1 | No. 1 Fuel Injector Circuit malfunction
|
| 4-27 |
They said I would have to leave it for them to look at it further due to them not having time (due to appointments). I opted to take it home and look at it myself. I have a week off and plans to repaint the bike plus other modifications so I will already have all the body panels off.
My thoughts:
The 11-1 code is not the culprit but will need looking into anyway.
The 12-1 code makes me believe it is the fuel injector sensor due to the problem being intermittent. The bike always starts. I assume it is a loose or failing sensor but realize it might be a failing injector.
Any input would be greatly appreciated. I am not a mechanic but have been determined to do most of my own work when possible and feel capable enough to give it a go. I also am fairly god at recognizing when I am over my head.
Regards,
Mark
D
Deleted member 1183
In the hope that it is the No 1 fuel injector connection (as opposed to just a faulty injector), I would remove the connector and tighten it if possible and then reposition it. That action alone might solve the problem. If not you are probably facing a new injector. Best of luck.
showkey
Super Mods
Not trying to repeat a prior posting or beat a dead horse.......BUT....Let's go back to the rear shock adjustments on May 11, three days before the intermittent stalling started.
The shock adjustment is located in a less convenient service location. Did you remove body panels and the rear inner fender liner? What else was done during this time period ?
There are a large number of critical connections, ECM, Bank angle sensor and all the engine wires in the general area above that shock adjust. If you adjusted the shock from the rear tire area only it is less likely that any other components were compromised.
If panels were removed and other things repositioned to get access then ............Going back to that area and look for damaged wire or connector. It can be simple as a tool that contacted a wire and pinched or broke the insulation. If other areas were worked on a pinched wire or wire harness would be a prime suspect.
I have not tried it ....but..... I think the engine would still run if one injector is out or failed. It would run on one cylinder but likely still run. There could be default where the engine shuts off if one injector has a problem ?
If the blue wire to the injectors was pinched and intermittently shorting the engine would shut off and the injector code would be set. IF the pink with yellow stripe wire was pinched then no one injector would shut off and code.
The shock adjustment is located in a less convenient service location. Did you remove body panels and the rear inner fender liner? What else was done during this time period ?
There are a large number of critical connections, ECM, Bank angle sensor and all the engine wires in the general area above that shock adjust. If you adjusted the shock from the rear tire area only it is less likely that any other components were compromised.
If panels were removed and other things repositioned to get access then ............Going back to that area and look for damaged wire or connector. It can be simple as a tool that contacted a wire and pinched or broke the insulation. If other areas were worked on a pinched wire or wire harness would be a prime suspect.
I have not tried it ....but..... I think the engine would still run if one injector is out or failed. It would run on one cylinder but likely still run. There could be default where the engine shuts off if one injector has a problem ?
If the blue wire to the injectors was pinched and intermittently shorting the engine would shut off and the injector code would be set. IF the pink with yellow stripe wire was pinched then no one injector would shut off and code.
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Would a bad injector be bad then good then bad then good?? I would start looking at all the connectors in that area of the shock adjustor.
I know a few years back when I went to the Fl Keys on my C50 Boulevard, on a couple of interstate bumps in Florida, my bike cut out a couple of times and the FI light came on, then bike was fine. I rode the bike home to Indiana and during the following week, the cutting out (and the FI light would blink on/off when it cut out) got more pronounce but would keep running, but the engine was dying for a second or so. My troubleshooting started by replacing the battery, still happened. Then I replaced both spark plugs, still happened. I then removed the tank, disconnected the electrical connections to the FI (easy to get to, right under the tank), reconnected the connections, and whalla, no more problem-sounds kinda similar to his problem, especially since he was able to start the bike right up after coming to a stop-it has to be something loose and some kind of bump on the highway knocking it loose for a split second. I would find the electrical connections to the fuel pump, the FI injectors and the connectors on the fuse block; disconnect them, blow air into them, and plug them back in.
I know a few years back when I went to the Fl Keys on my C50 Boulevard, on a couple of interstate bumps in Florida, my bike cut out a couple of times and the FI light came on, then bike was fine. I rode the bike home to Indiana and during the following week, the cutting out (and the FI light would blink on/off when it cut out) got more pronounce but would keep running, but the engine was dying for a second or so. My troubleshooting started by replacing the battery, still happened. Then I replaced both spark plugs, still happened. I then removed the tank, disconnected the electrical connections to the FI (easy to get to, right under the tank), reconnected the connections, and whalla, no more problem-sounds kinda similar to his problem, especially since he was able to start the bike right up after coming to a stop-it has to be something loose and some kind of bump on the highway knocking it loose for a split second. I would find the electrical connections to the fuel pump, the FI injectors and the connectors on the fuse block; disconnect them, blow air into them, and plug them back in.
Disastrous
New Member
Does anyone have a tip for releasing the EVAP purge control solenoid valve hose [14]? Page 2-30
It is holding up the show for my getting to the fuel injector sensors.
On another note, there were no gaskets in my air filter.
It is holding up the show for my getting to the fuel injector sensors.
On another note, there were no gaskets in my air filter.
Disastrous
New Member
Found it!
What a pain it is to remove the battery box! However, within seconds of getting it off I believe found the culprit. The left (No.1) fuel sensor plug was not seated properly! I tugged gently on both cables and No.1 came off without resistance of any kind. I blew out both ends and reconnected it with a resounding click. Now to see if I can get everything put back in its rightful place. I wonder how many dollars I saved tracing this down on my own. Granted, the Honda mechanic would have gotten it apart much faster but it still would have been several hours ($70/hour). Thanks for all the help/suggestions. I'll update should it turn out to be something else (doubtful).
What a pain it is to remove the battery box! However, within seconds of getting it off I believe found the culprit. The left (No.1) fuel sensor plug was not seated properly! I tugged gently on both cables and No.1 came off without resistance of any kind. I blew out both ends and reconnected it with a resounding click. Now to see if I can get everything put back in its rightful place. I wonder how many dollars I saved tracing this down on my own. Granted, the Honda mechanic would have gotten it apart much faster but it still would have been several hours ($70/hour). Thanks for all the help/suggestions. I'll update should it turn out to be something else (doubtful).
anglachel
Member
Therapy
Member
I read this thread with interest because intermittent problems are the worst and I always hope I can remember what to do when it is my turn.
Good job.
I also note the "no gasket" for the air filter. Factory?
Be safe.
